valve clatter

[POEY]

My BBC has valve clatter at about 3000 rpm and up. I would like to adjust them. My question is the next time I have my valve covers off to clean the Basset milk would it be safe to give all of them a 1/4 turn? Doing it while running, the headers are too hot and loud to listen for when the clatter starts and stops. Should I pull the plugs and turn it by hand to see where I'm at? This is a stock rebuild on it's fourth season and started the clatter after two seasons.

[HammerDown]

"Bassett milk"...:eek: lets find out why that is also!
Hyd's or solids?
Could be a bad lifter or maybe a guide etc.
Hyd's set right and functioning properly shouldn't need any more but I've (heard) chevy can be taken 1.50 turns > NOT THAT I WOULD!
I set mine @ 1/2 from zero.
If already set, 1/4 on solids may be too much when related parts get hot and grow. EDIT > use feeler guage and what manufacture recomends for "hot/cold" settings.

[460rogers]

If it is doing it at 3000 rpm...it could be pinging and not the valves.
Try backing off the timing and see if it goes away.
Or try a higher octane fuel...
Just my .02

[POEY]

It has hydraulic lifters, I have the timing at 12 degree's BTDC and the motor doesn't miss a beat, which raises another question. How do you figure total timing? I'll try some premium fuel in it tomorrow.

[Jetoholic]

It has hydraulic lifters, I have the timing at 12 degree's BTDC and the motor doesn't miss a beat, which raises another question. How do you figure total timing? I'll try some premium fuel in it tomorrow.
You need whats called a "total advance timing light". It has a dial on the back of it.
Set the knob at 36 and rev the engine while aiming it at the timing marker . Rev the engine until the mark stops moving (should be somewhere between 2800 - 3200 RPM if set up correctly) and the marker should ilne up with "0" on the timing plate. If not, adjust the distributor until it does.

[HammerDown]

You need whats called a "total advance timing light". It has a dial on the back of it.
.
Another option...he could use a regular timing light w/some timing tape on the harmonic balancer. (that's how I check it) :)
Some people have a problem with the tape flying off, simple fix > some black spray paint, when it's still tacky put the tape on , let it fully dry >it won't fly off.

[POEY]

With the total timing right would I see a noticable difference in top speed? Again, this thing runs excellent, should I leave it be and concentrate on the panther? (this winter, summers are short here) Its a stock, remanufactured oval port with a tired panther. With a little chop on the water I can get 50 MPH out of it. I wouldn't mind another 5 MPH out of it.

[TE/110]

Timing has a major impact on performance and longevity, so it needs to be correct. I would also check out the valvetrain. Hydraulics are real easy to adjust. Rotate the engine until a piston is up (roughly), then tighten one of that cylinder's rocker arms while spinnin the pushrod with your fingers. As soon as you can no longer spin the pushrod, back the nut off a half a turn. Now adjust the remaining rocker arm on that cylinder. Now rotate the engine until the next piston is up, and so on.

[HammerDown]

I adjust them the HEEL TOE method...and works fine for the Cam in my engine. I've also done it the two methods below with a bigger CAM and w/more duration I would maybe use the bottom two methods.
*I find Zero Lash with finger spin then give whatever the manufacture recomends for preload >usually 1/4 to 1/2 turn and lock it down.
Heel-Toe
1)bring it up to #1 tdc (on compression stroke)
adjust intake.... 1 2 5 7
adjust exhaust...1 3 4 8
2)turn the motor over by hand 1 full revolution >#6 TDC
adjust intake ...3 4 6 8
adjust exhuast..2 5 6 7
OR...you can do it when each pistion is on it's compression stroke.
Locate compression stroke TDC #!, set BOTH #1 valves.
Neither of them will be near the ramp of the cam.
Turn the crank 90* clockwise and set #8.
Turn crank 90* clockwise, set #4.
Continue in this manner for 3, 6, 5, 7, 2.
OR...Pull the plugs, and then you can go through the firing order. Starting at #1, roll the engine over slowly and when the exhaust-valve starts to open, adjust the int. rocker. Then when the intake-valve starts to close, do the exhaust.

[bp]

good info from hammerdown... another thing to think about;
what oil are you running in this thing, and what water temperature do you routinely see? what is the condition of the oil/oil filter? oil temps will run anywhere from 60 to 100 degrees higher than the water temp, which is one reason a lot of jets run 8 or 10 quart oil pans. if you're running a lower viscosity oil, at 240-250+ degrees the stuff will be like water and hydraulics won't stay pumped up for long. if you've got water leaking into the engine from somewhere that's just making it worse. with hydraulics, you should be running a multi-grade with 50 as the last number, like 20-50...

[Jetoholic]

good info from hammerdown... another thing to think about;
what oil are you running in this thing, and what water temperature do you routinely see? what is the condition of the oil/oil filter? oil temps will run anywhere from 60 to 100 degrees higher than the water temp, which is one reason a lot of jets run 8 or 10 quart oil pans. if you're running a lower viscosity oil, at 240-250+ degrees the stuff will be like water and hydraulics won't stay pumped up for long. if you've got water leaking into the engine from somewhere that's just making it worse. with hydraulics, you should be running a multi-grade with 50 as the last number, like 20-50...
Good info here on the oil. I'd also like to add that you may wanna consider running a racing or off road type oil in it as well. EPA mandated that all the 'good stuff' like the zinc additive they used to put in motor oil be taken out of conventional motor oil, and you definitely want the ZDDP additive in a performance engine. Only the racing and off road oils still have ZDDP in them. A good one to run is the Valvoline VR1 20W-50 racing oil.

[HammerDown]

Good info here on the oil. I'd also like to add that you may wanna consider running a racing or off road type oil in it as well. EPA mandated that all the 'good stuff' like the zinc additive they used to put in motor oil be taken out of conventional motor oil, and you definitely want the ZDDP additive in a performance engine. Only the racing and off road oils still have ZDDP in them. A good one to run is the Valvoline VR1 20W-50 racing oil.
I like the VR1 Racing 20-50...it's the only 20-50 (I tried) that didn't thin out to water after a long hard run.
However, I still wish I had a oil cooler when using any multi weight.
Even with the above being said...for some reason I just felt better during the heat of summer after a long extended run with VR1 straight 50 weight in the engine.

[POEY]

Good day on the river, found some gremlins. Discovered I have a blown header gasket. Also figured out my bassett milk problem. I checked the ball and spring every year and apparently had the spring upside down and the ball slipped thru the spring. Heading out this weekend with fresh valvoline VR1 20/50 and a qt of lucas oil treatment( I've used this combo from day one) I used up all the regular fuel and going to fill it with $4.49 a gallon premium and give it a whirl.