Polishing a Jet [Archive] - RiverRacer.Net

miller19j

10-22-2002, 09:29 AM

I know some of you have polished your jets. I am going to start mine this weekend and was curious as to what the best way to remove the paint and filler on the jet was, Sandblasting, Chemical Strippers, Ect. Any info from your experiences would be appreciated.
[ October 22, 2002, 10:30 AM: Message edited by: miller19j ]

Froggystyle

10-22-2002, 09:34 AM

Hired Labor. Easiest way I have found!
J/K. I have no idea

cyclone

10-22-2002, 09:48 AM

hey froggy did you ever 'bag the front of your durango? oh yeah, did you ever check on those mags for me?

HOSS

10-22-2002, 10:04 AM

Send it out!

565edge

10-22-2002, 10:04 AM

miller19j:
I know some of you have polished your jets. I am going to start mine this weekend and was curious as to what the best way to remove the paint and filler on the jet was, Sandblasting, Chemical Strippers, Ect. Any info from your experiences would be appreciated.I used a jasco a chemical stripper,they also make aerosoel cans of paint stripper,just spray on and rinse off.

comin' unscrewed

10-22-2002, 10:41 AM

Definately chemical stripper. Don't blast! You'll make a lot more work for yourself.

Froggystyle

10-22-2002, 10:47 AM

cyclone:
hey froggy did you ever 'bag the front of your durango? oh yeah, did you ever check on those mags for me?No. I am still trying to get the new front end situated. It turns out that Stillen builds a nice looking, but poor fitting urethane bumper. No attachment points, no light mounts, doesn't fit the stock location etc... Oh, and no grill inserts available except for billet, which I hate.
Gotta make my own I guess.
Mags are here, c'mon down!

Blown 472

10-22-2002, 10:52 AM

If you get the paint off can it be polished by hand or say a paint buffer?

miller19j

10-22-2002, 01:10 PM

I guess I will go with the chemical stripper route. Thanks Guys!

Heatseeker

10-22-2002, 04:39 PM

Removing the paint is only the beginning... :( .

Wet Dream

10-22-2002, 06:17 PM

Chemical strippers don't work for shit. You can spray, coat, brush on as many aircraft strippers as you want, and the primer (green) won't peel. The best thing I found to work with is to have it blasted. It gives you a nice surface to work with, yes it will be rough, but you have bare metal to start with. Then use a wire wheel on a drill to break it all down. I started with a brass coarse, steel med, steel fine, then hand sand with 200 up to at least 600, and 1000 if you're up to it by then. Repeat any step as necessary, and then buff, starting with a GOOD high speed buffer, start with the yellow or orange wheel, brown bar, and then work up to the white wheel, white bar or liquid. It is a pain in the ass, but the pay off is nice. The bowl is one of the easiest pieces, wait until you get to the nozzles and such. Prepare to get dirty and frustrated.
http://free.***boat.net/gallery/Gearhead_Garage/Motors_and_Drives/Mvc-032s.JPG
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http://free.***boat.net/gallery/Gearhead_Garage/Motors_and_Drives/Mvc-137s.JPG

565edge

10-22-2002, 06:23 PM

Miller,go to calderones tire in santa maria ca,it is off blosser rd,down by farm supply,ask for (sp)cooko,he is one of the better polishers around here.

PLACECRAFT20

10-23-2002, 07:07 AM

I DO ALLOT OF POLISHING ON ATV PARTS, CAR PARTS, ETC. I HAVE NOT DONE MY PUMP YET BUT IT WILL GET DONE THIS WINTER. I HAVE FOUND A DA TYPE ORBITAL SANDER WORKS GREAT FOR PREP WORK BEFORE POLISHING. IF THE METAL IS POURSE START WITH 320 THEN 400, 600, 800, 1500 ETC. THE 1500 WILL ALMOST POLISH THE PARTS BEFORE YOU START WITH THE BUFFER. THE DA ALSO WILL REMOVE THE PRIMER EXCEPT IN THE CREVISES.

miller19j

10-23-2002, 08:05 AM

Wow thanks for all the info. I have a DA and I did not even think of using it. If I use the DA then I think Sandblasting would be the easiest way to strip it. I might farm it out but I will tackle it myself first. I hate to pay someone to do something that I am perfectly capable of doing. Wet dream that came out looking great! I hope mine looks as nice.

Adrenalin

10-24-2002, 09:25 AM

Since you are going this much trouble here is what I did. Yes, the polishing is a commitment of time but it does look GOOD. While you have everything apart take all the pieces to your local powdercoating shop. Do this after you sandblast or glass bead but before you polish. Leason learned the hard way. The heat cure of the powder coat process gives you the oportunity to profect your polish technique...you get to do it again. Have ALL of the peices coated including the shoe only on the inside. It really makes the water way slick...less resistance.MORE RPM'S MORE MPH'S. Every little bit helps. It will cost a couple of bucks but...

miller19j

10-24-2002, 10:25 AM

Actually I want to have it powder coated with a Candy Blue to match my gauge bezels. So the polishing is just the pre surface treatment for the powder coating.

565edge

10-24-2002, 11:58 AM

miller19j:
Actually I want to have it powder coated with a Candy Blue to match my gauge bezels. So the polishing is just the pre surface treatment for the powder coating.the powder shop place in s.l.o. did my stuff,they made it look like anodizeing without it being polished first,they matched it to my teal bezels perfect.

miller19j

10-24-2002, 12:29 PM

565edge:
miller19j:
Actually I want to have it powder coated with a Candy Blue to match my gauge bezels. So the polishing is just the pre surface treatment for the powder coating.the powder shop place in s.l.o. did my stuff,they made it look like anodizeing without it being polished first,they matched it to my teal bezels perfect.Witch Shop is that? What condition did you bring it in to them in?