More Questions!

[73SangerSuperJet]

First let me say I greatly appreciate everyoneÂ’s help on this board. I know I ask a lot of questions, but once I attain a certain amount of knowledge, I can begin helping others!
Ok. Now on to the problems
I took Muff Diver out to Sonoma yesterday (after fixing that vacuum leak) and ran her around. She sure sounded great at idle on the trailer, but she didnÂ’t perform that way! All is good until I get out of the no wake zone. At about (what I would estimate with no tach) 2500-3000 RÂ’s she begins to cut out/pop. Not knowing much about carbs, I messed with the screws on either side (I think they are idle fuel screws, I donÂ’t know). Some times she would sound good with occasional popping (sounded lean, I think). I thought maybe the timing (The whole timing thing is still a bit of a mystery to me), so I tried to set it to 9 BTC as apposed to 8 BTC. I have pertronix pointless setup. I tested vacuum at idle, its about 20lbs (which is good). If you really stab the gas, she just cuts out/ pops, but if you progressively hit the pedal, she acts a bit better. If anyone needs more info, please let me know.
Thanks
Louis
http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Reader_Rides/Jet_Boats/anothermuff3.JPG
http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Reader_Rides/Jet_Boats/anothermuff2.JPG
Also, the ass on these boats dosn't look the same.... mine is more rounded (look closely)
http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Reader_Rides/Jet_Boats/Tim_1.JPG
http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Reader_Rides/Jet_Boats/anothermuff1.JPG

[Hal]

Need more info on engine.What size is your carb? What size jets do you have in it? Sounds like your lean. What is your timming at 3200 rpm? You should be reading your vacuum in inches of vacuum.
[ February 10, 2003, 07:57 AM: Message edited by: Hal ]

[73SangerSuperJet]

I meant 20in, not lbs.... sorry ;-) This was all pertaining to this post here (My other questions) (http://free.***boat.net/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=001944) . I have a holley that was on the stock truck intake and ran fine. It is a single pumper, and I belive it is a 650cfm. How do I check timing at 3200 rpm? I am new to jet boat game, so please bear with me.
Thanks again,
Louis

[Wet Dream]

Sounds like a timing problem. Might not be advancing properly. 32 degrees at 3000 revs is where you want to be. Off subject, but something tells me that the bro sitting in the passenger seat behind the driver in the black boat isn't too keen on the swimming thing. He's a floater. :D
[ February 09, 2003, 01:03 PM: Message edited by: Wet Dream ]

[Jungle Boy]

Wet Dream:
Sounds like a timing problem. Might not be advancing properly. 32 degrees at 3000 revs is where you want to be. Off subject, but something tells me that the bro sitting in the passenger seat behind the driver in the black boat isn't too keen on the swimming thing. He's a floater. :D Too funny :D - I noticed the Bro too. :confused: Set your timing with your boat on the trailer. Make sure your trailer hook up won't let it crawl up and smoke your truck while you're doing it.

[73SangerSuperJet]

how do I check the timing?

[73SangerSuperJet]

Also, how do I set those two screws on the carb I was messing with back to optimal settings?
Louis

[Wet Dream]

Use a timing light have someone run your throttle and have another turn your distributor. Your throttle man should hold the pedal steady at 3000 rpm and your dist man should turn the dist to 32 degrees and lock it down there.

[Cantrip]

Oh boy, this is going to be long, what you need to do is get the boat sitting level on the trailer pretty close to how it would sit in the water. Now, check your carb, there are 2 brass screw heads, kind of large, flat head on either side on both the primary and secondary sides. Run the boat for a few min in the drivway, take off the screw on the side/front of the carb, if gas comes out, you need to adjust your needle and seat valve which is the large flat head screw on top of the carb, this adjusts the fuel level in the bowls and you need to move it down. If no gas comes out, you need to move the level up. This is easier than it sounds. Loosen the very large flathead screw on the top of the carb, this screw has a nut on under it, so loosen this screwand move the nut and that will move the level up or down, depending on where you need to move yours. What your to do here is make it so the gas will be at the very bottom of the brass flat screw heads on the side of the carb, so get the levels about there and start shaking the boat (lightly), if gas comes out, you are at the right level. You will need to have the boat running to check the level and off to adjust. Once these are set, now its time to adjust those little teeny screw on the side, your idle mixture screws. Start the boat up, it should be idling ok, now turn the litle screw in untill the boat starts running funny then turn it out a half turn. VIOALLLAAA!!! Adjusted carb. Now the timing issue, you need a timing light and you need to make sure there are marks on the crank dampener. If those are there, hook the timing light up to the battery and #1 cylinder, turn the boat on and set the timing to 10-14 degrees BTDC, turn the distributor to advance or retard. Keep the light on the crank and rev the engine like wetdream said, I think its 28-34 is ok for 3000 rpm's.I'll post pics...
These are the two brass screw heads that you need to remove to check the fuel level, with these removed gas should barely dribble out of these holes
http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Forum_Graphic_Depot/P10100032.JPG
This is the needle and seat float adjuster, there are two of these, one on the back and one on the front, loosen the screw and move the nut accordingly to move the fuel level up or down, I dont know which way moves the level up or down (if anyone knows, chime in) but you will be able to know after the first attempt
http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Forum_Graphic_Depot/P10100022.JPG
These are the idle mixture screw, turn these in till the motor starts idling hard then back off a half turn
http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Forum_Graphic_Depot/P10100011.JPG
and this is a garden cart......
http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Forum_Graphic_Depot/P10100044.JPG
[ February 09, 2003, 03:01 PM: Message edited by: Cantrip ]

[Tim_T]

Its funny you guys noticed that because when the wife took that picture we were sitting there giving all kinds of shit for having it on. And you're right he is a floater. Not a very good swimmer at all. Too funny.
Tim

[Jungle Boy]

Cantrip, good advise. Totally unrelated, but what kind of camera is that. It takes better photos that the one I have here at work and was planning to buy one for my self. :cool:

[73SangerSuperJet]

Hey cantrip, thank you for such in depth responce! All I did was mess with the idle mixture screws, so can I get away with just setting these again? There are 2 of them, so which do I do first? Do I lean it out (tighten) until its rough, then come out 1/2 a turn? or go rich first? And I am supposed to conn one of my buddies into standing behind a BBC with open headers to adjust timing at 3000 R's? That will be fun! I have the timing marks on the dampner, and the little thing that sticks out for reference on the timing cover, but I don't think it goes to 30! Is that supposed to be 30 degrees past 10 degrees BTC? I am sorry I am having so much trouble with this, but I really do appreciate it, and if I can ever help anyone, I will.

[Hal]

Check this out.
http://centuryperformance.com/timing.htm

[Cantrip]

Jungle Boy, the camera is a Olympus Camedia C-700 Ultra Zoom, its a 10x zoom and 2.1 mega pixels but the lenz is great, better than most non-professional digital cameras I have seen.
Now 73SSJ, you want to check the levels of your floats first, that is pretty important, what you should actually do is pull out those needle and seat valves completley and take a peek at them, they go bad all the time, and if you have anything stuck in them it can ruin your whole day, and they usually don't free themselves up. The other day I went out wakeboarding and my boat kept dying at idle, I looked in the carb and the secondaries were FLOODING gas into the motor at idle and when the engine was off!! Pulled out the needle and seat valve and sure as hell, there was a small piece of debris on there. I took that debris out and replaced the needle and seat, adjusted the level and the boat ran perfect the rest of the day. So do those first, then adjust those little idle mixture screws. Let me know if you don't understand what I am trying to explain, I know it seems tough to understand, it was for me, I had to see it get done before I understood. And as far as the timing goes, yes, you will have to con one of your friends into turning the dist. while it is revved. When its idling though, you want to get it 10-14 before top dead center, which should be to the left of the 0 on the dampener, at 3000 rpms, as long as everything works ok, it should go to 28 or so on its own. So make sure on the dampener you see what side is Before Top Dead Center, it might say BTC and the other side will say ATC, make sure its 10-14 BTC. Let us know what happens but do the floats first on the carb then the idle, its quite easy.
[ February 09, 2003, 06:25 PM: Message edited by: Cantrip ]

[jeffro]

damn -
that is one FINE garden cart ! eek!
gotta get me one of those... :D
later :cool:

[73SangerSuperJet]

Thanks cantrip. Yah, when I first put the BBC in, first trip out dirt got caught in the needle and gas pored out all over the place. I had to clean it out and rebuilt part of the carb, and I now have a beefy inline filter (you can probably see it in some of the pics). I will try to mess with it some time this week (Gotta buy a timing light)
Thanks,
Louis

[Chris J]

Louis,
When you go looking for a timing light spend a few buck and get one with adjustable advance. This will allow you to check timing at WFO. Once you do any mods to a motor you can forget about stock timing. Focus on full advance timing which should be in by 3200rmp. No tach don't worry, just keep reving until the advance stops. Adjust knob on timing light until the timing mark is at Zero. read the number off the knob and thats what you have at full advance. If after setting full advance timing you have idle problems you need to adjust the amount of mechanical advance in the distributer and readjust full advance. Eventually you'll get both end timed. Full advance timing should be between 32-38, every motors different but it should run OK in this range. If it doesn't focus on the carb.

[jstwkd]

73 SangerSuperJet
Where are you located?I work in Santa Rosa.

[73SangerSuperJet]

Hey Jstwkd, I live in Santa Rosa (I own a computer consulting business), and I keep my boat at my dads house in windsor (about 5-10 mins north of SR).
Thanks,
Louis

[78Eliminator]

If your boat idles, then you're fine for now. The popping at 2500-3k has nothing to do with your idle mixture since the idle circuits aren't used at that range. The mixture srews on your metering blocks are for idling only. Come out 1.5 turns on each of you want a base point, then adjust the idle with the buttreflys. You sound lean as hell. Your engine is probably starving. I would check your float levels just like everyone here is telling you. Might not hurt to do a rebuild or at least verify the needle/seat float funtionality. How old is your fuel? Might there be water in it?
Be careful with your lean condition. If you get it up to a higher RPM level, stab it for a few seconds, then cut the throttle and shut her down, do a plug reading and see if you might need to up jet. Let us know what happens....

[Blown 472]

Wasn't there something about weak valve springs causing a miss stubble popping thing awhile ago?

[73SangerSuperJet]

The gas is maybe a few months old in one tank (from november). The boat did see some heavy rain. The other tank (which was dry) I just put gas in on saturday on my way to the lake, but did not run off this tank. Engine problems are similar to computer problems (which is what I do all day), all you have to do is isolate all the variables, until you find the problem. So I will start with timing (since the carb worked fine before the swap, and I did swap the dist.)
Thanks again, this board is invaluable
Louis

[73SangerSuperJet]

Ok, I got a timing light today (couldn't wait) with the advance dial on it, and what I found looked troubling. I disconnected the jet drive and turned off the headers since I was going to run for a while on the trailer. I got it set to about 11-12 BTC at idle with the light, and worked with the idle mixture screws until it idled well (I actually did that in the oppisite order). I then revved the motor to like 2500 with the light on the dampner, and the line went to ATC.... what does this mean? At that point I thought I was supposed to mess with the dial on the light, and as I increased to 28-30 degrees, the light went even farther past ATC. When I let off the throttle, the light went back to 0 degrees while the light advance was set to 12 (like it is supposed to). What the hell does this mean? did I do something wrong? I traded some guy my HEI for this used pertronix setup. Please help!
Thanks,
Louis
Oh yah, and it still pops / cuts out

[MikeF]

73SSJ, Do it again :p . You want to rev the engine up to around 3000 and adj the dial on the timing light until the timing mark gets to "0". Then look at the dial on the timing light to see your total advance.
If you have a vacuum advance on the dist. Disconnect it and plug the fitting. It will only throw off your reading and vacuum advance is not used in boat applications. (not sure if you have it, just letting you know not to use it wink )

[malcolm]

Sounds like you got a left handed timing light. :D
The more I think about it it does sound like the vacuum advance is hooked up to manifold vacuum. That would cause it to retard as you hit the gas.
[ February 10, 2003, 08:20 PM: Message edited by: malcolm ]

[73SangerSuperJet]

I did rev to probably to 3800 rpms (It was cutting out and popping). To get it to go to 0 at high rpms, I had to go down with the advance on the light, not up (from 12, which is what it is at idle, down to 2-3). It seemed backwards (I even read the timing light book, and it described it the same as you guys). oh yah, no vacuum on this dist.
I don't understand....
Thanks,
Louis

[malcolm]

Was that dist. out of a left hand engine? I'm not sure about this, but it sounded good when I thought of it. :D

[1tricky1]

How's the timing chain doing? :confused:

[MikeF]

73SSJ, Get your HEI back and try it :rolleyes: . Something is wrong w/ the other dist (get it checked out if you can).
Crap, Might not work w/ your T-ram.
[ February 10, 2003, 08:43 PM: Message edited by: MikeF ]

[malcolm]

Yeah, just for the hell of it take the cap off and check to see which way the advance will turn by grabbing the rotor. It should turn the same as direction of rotation (clockwise I think). I can't think of anything else that would make it backwards.

[Sleek-Jet]

When you changed manifolds, did make sure you were on TDC on #1 when you dropped the distributer back in?
Also, the distributer will rotate as you drop it in the engine (because the drive gear is angle cut), you might be off a tooth one way or the other.

[Hal]

Maybe bad plug wires. Also check check dist. cap for cracks. Pull the plug wires out of the cap and look for corrosion where the wires go in the cap.
[ February 10, 2003, 09:20 PM: Message edited by: Hal ]

[MikeF]

Hal:
Sounds like maybe bad plug wires. Also check check dist. cap for cracks and corrosion. Good possibility! Make sure all of the wires are separated by at least 1/2". Check the resistance w/ an OHM meter.
[ February 10, 2003, 09:18 PM: Message edited by: MikeF ]

[73SangerSuperJet]

HEI Didn't fit. Thats why I changed it. Hey sleek, what you said is most likely. Me being new to this game, I did my best when changing the manifold. I didn't bring the engine to tdc before the swap and but I did mark the dist position on the HEI. So when I put in pertronix (much smaller), I did it by eyeballing it. I think I may be off by one tooth. could that be causing this problem? The motor idles fine....
thanks
Louis

[Hal]

No, you said you were able to set your initial
timing so you are all right there. Did you check your wires yet. If they are carbon core wires replace them with stainless or plated copper core wires. I don't think you need to worry about static in your radio :)
[ February 10, 2003, 09:50 PM: Message edited by: Hal ]

[73SangerSuperJet]

Another question: can't I theoreticly put #1 werever I want? As long as #1 on the cap is lined up at TDC for cylinder #1, all should be good, right? So it should not matter if I skip a tooth from the old dist.
Louis

[Hal]

Yes you can and don't forget the fuel pump.
[ February 10, 2003, 09:52 PM: Message edited by: Hal ]

[73SangerSuperJet]

What do you mean "Don't forget the fuel pump"?

[malcolm]

How is any of this going to address the advance going backwards?

[73SangerSuperJet]

beats me... i am just tryin to get me waterskiable! Anyone in the Santa Rosa area who wants to go to the lake with me is welcome....
Thanks,
Louis

[Sleek-Jet]

73SangerSuperJet:
Another question: can't I theoreticly put #1 werever I want? As long as #1 on the cap is lined up at TDC for cylinder #1, all should be good, right? So it should not matter if I skip a tooth from the old dist.
Louis I have swaped a couple dist. by marking the location of the rotor on the old one and then drop the new one in at the same location, usually worked out fine.
As far as checking #1 TDC on the distributer, it's pretty easy to check. With the plugs out, hold you finger over the #1 spark plug hole (the forward left cylinder), crank the engine till you feel the increase of pressure on you finger (it'll push your finger off the spark plug hole). Keep cranking it till you can't feel any more pressure, that's TDC. The timeing mark on the balancer should be close to 0. Pop the cap off the distributer, the rotor should be pointing at the #1 cylinder hole in the cap, or at the #1 cylinder if the cap is installed so the the #1 cylinder hole is pointing at #1.
The distributer is usually installed so that the rotor points to #1 cylinder at top dead center, but you could actually "clock" it in any position as long as #1 is TDC.
Just read Hal's post, he's right, if you can set your intitial timing, your close enough on the distributer installation. But it might not hurt to check.
[ February 10, 2003, 10:14 PM: Message edited by: Sleek-Jet ]

[Froggystyle]

MAke sure your harmonic balancer doesn't have multiple timing marks and you are on the wrong one.
Sounds stupid, but do a sanity check with the spark plug method. Another way is to make sure both of your intake and exhaust on the #1 cylinder are closed with the valve cover off when it comes to TDC.
Just checks... sounds like you have some good advice.

[dyam]

I had probs like this a long time ago. Probably isn't what you have but....
I went to an old timer that I trusted and he told me to 1.put fresh spark plug in 2.install fresh plug wires. After I told him that everything was good and that I had checked it all before, (and after he smacked he upside the head) we changed everything. Seems I had crossed #s 3 & 5 plugwires. It was poping and backfireing when I gave it gas and I couldn't hold any RPM at all.
After we changed it all It ran smooth.
Worth a look anyways.

[dyam]

Oh yeah. One other thing. I had to run extremely large squirters and jets. I was told the size of the headers was causing a lean condition on acceleration so I went with 50cc pumps and the largest squirters I could find. I also blocked off the power valves and ran 10 bigger on the jets. I think I was running 76s in the front and 82s in the rear with slosh tubes. This was on a small block.
Hope this helps.

[Hal]

Sorry about the feul pump thing. I signed off after that post. I meant to say check the fuel pump,maybe its not delivering at the higher rpms and your going lean.

[Kindsvater Flat]

Weak valve springs or flat cam. I don't think its fuel.

[Chris J]

Well you definatly have a timing problem that needs be be addressed first. A couple of things come to mind. Is the rotor PHASED correctly (I suspect not). If it is, its possible that you have a hair line crack in the dist. thats causing cross fire. Also are you running a points dist? If you are it could be your dwell is too short not giving the coil enough time to charge.
You CAN NOT just drop a dist in a GM. The reason is that there are 13 drive teeth (cam end) and only 8 cylinder. They need to be timed so that the rotor is under the #1 cylinder post of the cap when its time to fire. A easy way to see if your rotor is phased correctly is to drill a 1/4" hole into the side of the cap under the #1 post. Then mark the tip of the rotor. Shine your timing light in the hole with the engine running. You should see your mark directly under the #1 post.
Originally posted by 73SangerSuperJet:
Another question: can't I theoreticly put #1 werever I want? As long as #1 on the cap is lined up at TDC for cylinder #1, all should be good, right? So it should not matter if I skip a tooth from the old dist.
Louis

[jstwkd]

73 Sanger e-mail me with your number. I'll help set your timing and check everything else out.

[78Eliminator]

I can't believe I didn't think of that. Cracking and popping and shooting fire out the header sounds EXACTLY like you crossed a couple wires!!!!
Double check!
BBC firing order: 18436572

[Hotcrusader76]

Did we cover fuel pressure yet? Clean fuel filter? wink

[73SangerSuperJet]

no flames coming out of headers, just some popping and mainly cutting out. fuel pressure is strong (I will probably test). Can someone please post firing order.... thanks

[jstwkd]

18436572

[73SangerSuperJet]

Hey Jstwkd, I e-mailed you my number, so give me a call when you get a chance....
Thanks man
Louis

[dyam]

Have you tried pumping the accellerator pump while the motor is not running to see if it's working?
If it's working, try pumping it while you run the rpm up to add more gas. If it's a lean condition, the motor should run better.

[dyam]

Thought of this today. I used to have to rebuild the Holley on a buddies boat every spring. One year the first trip came around and sure enough it was running like #@$%$. I rebuilt it and it still ran bad. Popping and coughing. I asked if he had good gas and he said yeah. no problem.
Well... turned out it was bad gas. put fresh gas in and it fired and ran great.
Point is, you need to make sure all the little things are good so you don't have to worry about them. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, gas etc.
Start fresh and then you can work on the rest of the stuff.

[73SangerSuperJet]

I think my home made throttle cable holder is causing another vacuum leak... don't know if it causes timing problem though.... I will probably fix it tomorrow..... thanks
Louis

[Cas]

73Sanger,
I don't know if you saw my post in the other thread but I'm in Sonoma and will be more than happy to give you a hand. Since I need some computer work and you need some carb work, wanna trade?
All I need is the HD from this computer put in as a slave in my new computer unless you have another suggestion.
Since I haven't read each and every post, has anyone suggested a blown out power valve? Maybe one that's not correct for running in a boat?
If you're going out again soon, I might be able to hook you up with a 750 vs to try.
If any of that interests you, let me know.

[Cas]

another simple thing to check would be the tach lead. Since your tach isn't installed, make sure the wire is properly isolated from being able to arc to any of the grounds or 12v wires under the dash and at the engine.

[Hal]

[QUOTE]Ok. Now on to the problems
I took Muff Diver out to Sonoma yesterday (after fixing that vacuum leak) and ran her around. She sure sounded great at idle on the trailer, but she didnÂ’t perform that way! All is good until I get out of the no wake zone. At about (what I would estimate with no tach) 2500-3000 RÂ’s she begins to cut out/pop. Not knowing much about carbs, I messed with the screws on either side (I think they are idle fuel screws, I donÂ’t know). Some times she would sound good with occasional popping (sounded lean, I think). I thought maybe the timing (The whole timing thing is still a bit of a mystery to me), so I tried to set it to 9 BTC as apposed to 8 BTC. I have pertronix pointless setup. I tested vacuum at idle, its about 20lbs (which is good). If you really stab the gas, she just cuts out/ pops, but if you progressively hit the pedal, she acts a bit better. If anyone needs more info, please let me know.
From above.....
It sounded great at idleNo idle problem.
You were able to set your timing @ 9* apposed to 8* BTC. No timing problem.
You have 20" of vacuum (which is good) Its very good. So you don't have a vacuum leak.
I would say the three most common things that would cause your problem would be.1.Your going lean when the secondaries are kicking in. could be restricted or plugged secondary jets. ect,ect
2. Eletrical problem... Plug wires. If you have old or carbon core wires I would replace them. Replace distributor cap. Make sure your batt cables are clean and tight at both ends. Install new plugs if you have'nt by now. Check all your wire connections.
3. The dreaded flat cam lobe. But look at it on the good side, Your going to get a chance to learn how to tear down an engine and put it back together. :)
There are a lot more things that could be wrong but I think the 3 above are the most common to boaters because of corrosion ( inside of carb and at electrical connections) and the cam lobe problems could be because because some boats may sit covered or in a garage for six months or more and not get started. Its pretty hard on lobes when starting an engine with a dry cam.
Any how thats my two cents. Good luck... I hope its one of the easy things.
For some reason I am unable to preview my post so if I screwed up any where its not my fault. :) :)

[dyam]

So this thing ran good all summer with the motor that's in there now and the only thing you changed was the intake, distributor, and the headers? What about the carb? Did you change it too? Is it a double pumper?
Obviously you had to re-run the plug wires. What about the coil?
If it ran good before the changes, it's probably not the cam, but you never know.
If it's popping when you try to get a reading with the timing light, it's going to bounce all over the place and the reading is going to be worthless.
Also, if it's going lean, the problem should be worse in the water and not as bad on the trailer.(no load on the motor) And the problem, popping, should be happening right when the secondaries are opening.
Keep us up to date on what you find!
Hope this helps.
Dean
[ February 12, 2003, 03:53 PM: Message edited by: dyam ]

[73SangerSuperJet]

yah, only intake, dist and headers. I had to add the coil (It is from the original 455 that came with the boat) No flames though, and my version of popping is probably more cutting out (just not used to open headers). I fixed my last vacuum leak today, and I think the dist is just not advancing... I don't know.
Thanks,
Louis
Also, the coil worked fine on the 455 (I actually ran the boat to about 20-30mph with the spun bearings before doing the BBC swap)

[Sleek-Jet]

You might give pertronix a call. They have a phone number posted at www.pertronix.com. (http://www.pertronix.com.)
You said that your distributer was a used one. I just remembered that I had a similar problem on my boat when I bought it. It would start and run, and you could blip the throttle, but it wouldn't hold any RPMs above a couple of grand.
I pulled the HEI, and it was full of a gunky oil/dirt/water mixture. All of the advance mechanism was gummed and corroded up and would hardly move, so I wasn't getting the amount of advance the motor needed to run above and idle (it idled fine, like there was nothing wrong). Took it apart and cleaned everything thouroghly, and put a new module, coil, cap, and rotor in it. I put it back on the motor and it worked like a new distributer, no more rough running engine.
You might try looking and see if you have the same problem.
[ February 12, 2003, 08:41 PM: Message edited by: Sleek-Jet ]

[Chris J]

Back about 30 posts you posted the following, I don't care if you convert it to fuel injection. Unless you get 32-38 deg timing at full advance this motor ain't gonna run right. Forget about the carb and fix timing problem that's been identified.
I did rev to probably to 3800 rpms (It was cutting out and popping). To get it to go to 0 at high rpms, I had to go down with the advance on the light, not up (from 12, which is what it is at idle, down to 2-3). It seemed backwards (I even read the timing light book, and it described it the same as you guys). oh yah, no vacuum on this dist.
I don't understand....
Thanks,
Louis

[Cantrip]

Sleek-Jet:
.
I pulled the HEI, and it was full of a gunky oil/dirt/water mixture. All of the advance mechanism was gummed and corroded up and would hardly move, so I wasn't getting the amount of advance the motor needed to run above and idle (it idled fine, like there was nothing wrong). Took it apart and cleaned everything thouroghly, and put a new module, coil, cap, and rotor in it. I put it back on the motor and it worked like a new distributer, no more rough running engine.
You might try looking and see if you have the same problem. This could be a definite possibility, I had a similar problem with moisture in my distributor, it gets sloshed up when the dist. starts turning. What you do to fix this is pull the dist, clean it and shoot some wd-40 on there, its conductive and it help everything move around in there. And do the electronic ign if you still have points, that is a great idea!! Damn, it looks like we need to start bringin out the big guns for this problem.... doesnt havasu barney know alot about BB motors ? :D
[ February 13, 2003, 12:13 PM: Message edited by: Cantrip ]

[AZKC]

I was waiting for the flat cam or crossed plug wires :D When I hear that popping noise off idle on some car or boat thats for sale cheap. It usually turns out to be one of those. Pull the valve covers off and eyeball the rockers see if one seems to be not moving up and down as much as the others. Triple double ck your firing order. And while the valve covers are off inspect the valve springs for a broken coil, Blown472 is preachin the truth.
My .06
KC

[Hal]

73SangerSuperJet:
Some times she would sound good with occasional popping (sounded lean, I think). I thought maybe the timing (The whole timing thing is still a bit of a mystery to me), so I tried to set it to 9 BTC as apposed to 8 BTC.How did you set your timing at 9* apposed to 8* without a timing light? :rolleyes:

[dyam]

Hey. So what's happening with the boat?

[USMC1812]

Yeah, more info!
[ February 18, 2003, 07:47 AM: Message edited by: USMC1812 ]

[dyam]

did ya sink it for the insurance or what?

[73SangerSuperJet]

Jstwkd came over and figured out my timing was total advance at 15 degrees. So he upped it to 30 or 33 degrees (can't remember) and it started running better. So I took it out on the lake and it ran alot better, but same prob. It would cut out at around the same point, but when I open secondaries by hand, hold on b/c she takes off like a bat out of hell. I could not figure it out. Then when I got home I was explaining the prob to my dad when I tapped the vacuum secondary pump on the side of the carb, and noticed that it was about to fall off (hence the secondaries not opening!!!). I have not had it out again yet, but I suspect that was the final prob. Thanks for everyones help!!!!
Louis