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diggler
03-06-2003, 02:59 PM
I'm about to put in a new oil cooler on my Olds 455. I have the billet aluminum relocation kit along with the 1/2" NPT fittings.
My question is whether or not I should be worried about the initial loss of oil pressure while the oil works its way through about 6-8' of hose.
Also, I have a high volume oil pump in the block along with a 10qt. Moroso pan on it. I'm pretty concerned about this and was wondering if there was a way to 'prime' the oil cooler and hoses first.
Thanks!

HBjet
03-06-2003, 03:03 PM
I've seen guys take the Dist. out and they had an attachment hooked up to an air drill to turn the oil pump for a minute or 2, then they re-installed the dist and fired everything up.
Question: Why are you installing an oil cooler? Is your olds running really hot? What are the oil temps without the cooler?
Thanks
HBjet

XClutchboy725
03-06-2003, 03:29 PM
disable the distributor and crank on the starter a while! That should do the trick. As long as you still have power to your guages, watch the oil pressure guage. I can build over 40 lbs of oil pressure on my starter motor eek!

HBjet
03-06-2003, 03:41 PM
Is that good for the starter? And what about the batteries? They should be dead by the time your ready to fire up the boat! :D
HBjet

GlastronGuy
03-06-2003, 03:46 PM
HBjet:
I've seen guys take the Dist. out and they had an attachment hooked up to an air drill to turn the oil pump for a minute or 2, then they re-installed the dist and fired everything up.
HBjet This is what I do.

cyclone
03-06-2003, 03:47 PM
This might be a good application for the Master Lube product.

diggler
03-06-2003, 03:51 PM
My oil pressure drops after the boat gets warm to levels I'm not too happy with. 60psi cold, and 30psi, warm, at high rpm's.
I've talked with many other Olds owners and they've experienced some of the same. I have run the boat for over 90miles in a Poker Run as it is last summer and didn't have any problems. I'm just putting in some "insurance". Thanks all! I like the drill idea.

Old Guy
03-06-2003, 04:10 PM
I have done it many times. I also have a 455 olds. As a matter of fact, I have had four 455 olds motors. You can save some time if you carefully mark the position of the distributor before you remove it. You will need a 3/8" or larger reversable drill. Be careful when you pull the distributor because sometimes the 5/16" hex drive shaft that connects the oil pump to the bottom of the distributor is a little loose and might drop out and fall all the way down into the oil pan. (Then you pull the motor) Sometimes it's got a "keeper" that will keep it in the motor. Anyway, you need the hex shaft to turn the oil pump with your drill. You may need to use a 1/4" drive extension with a 5/16" socket to reach the end of the hex shaft with your drill.
Remove the wire from the "BAT" terminal of your inginion coil. Turn the ignition switch on. Run your drill (in reverse) turning the oil pump and watch your oil presure guage. You should be able to get full oil presure the same as if the motor was running. You will force oil to every part of the motor without risking any part for lack of lubrication. I don't like taking chances with my stuff either. When you see oil getting to the overhead, you know it's really working.
old

MAXIMUS
03-06-2003, 04:22 PM
A simpler way (not as effective as priming). Just take a couple of quarts of oil & fill the cooler & lines before you complete the installation. It can be done with out making a mess. Use a little common sense & maybe a few rags... wink

Chris J
03-07-2003, 09:00 AM
I wouldn't worry too much about the lack of oil in the lines after installation. Its proabaly less than what you would have after changing the oil filter. Just let the motor idle until oil pressure builds. There's a fair amount of oil left on the bearing from the last time it was run. If oil pressure doesn't build in say 10 seconds shut off motor and prime oil system.
Personally If I need to prime a motor after a rebuild I'll use an old distributor with the teeth of the drive gear cut off and rotor assembly removed. I drive it with and electric drill. Nothing sucks more than having to pull your motor because you just broke the drive tag off your oil pump.

Liberator TJ1984
03-07-2003, 10:55 AM
Suuupppp Diggler ???
If you got an Oil Cooler by all means put it on..Especially like your application where you may go for long cruises..Almost all the Olds guys down here run them and swear by them..I did not believe I needed one either ,seems motor never got that hot ??? Put an oil temp gauge in or touch the pan with your hand , oil gets alot hotter than you would think especially in a covered engine environment..besides it will give you that warm fuzzy feeling knowing its there :D
Just my 2* Later Bro.....Gopherrr

diggler
03-07-2003, 10:59 AM
Liberator TJ1984:
Suuupppp Diggler ???
besides it will give you that warm fuzzy feeling knowing its there :D
Just my 2* Later Bro.....Gopherrr Got all the parts yesterday. Putting it in this weekend. I'll probably just fill the lines and cooler with oil as I go. This is going to be a huge improvement!! I got warm fuzzy all over this engine!
One thing I'm pretty psyched about is being able to change the damn filter without ripping my hand to shreds in the tiny area in between the mounting rails and the engine block. SWEEEEET!!

BigDaddy
03-08-2003, 07:36 PM
I am probabbly late with this reply but here goes anyway.
Put the discharge hose from the cooler in a Puke Tank and remove the coil wire and turn the engine over for minute or two and when oil runs out the hose then ya know it is in the cooler and hoses and that they are not full of Air which is what I think you were worried about.
when done remove hose from tank or coffee can wipe off and attach to fiting and your done.
good luck with your olds I to run a olds 455