Musts For A 460 Rebuild

[Hallett19]

I have the thing apart, and I am not going to re ring it, but I am going to do new bearings, mains, cam and rod, and hottank it, what should I do to the crank ? should I balance the rods and pistons to the identical weight ? any other tricks I should know of ?

[Licketty Split]

Dude pop the extra cash for a set of total seal rings its cheap hourse power and peace of mind, Also install a themostat setup availible from CP think about it for a minute. The engine was designed for a 180 to 220 degree enviroment and thats when the clearences are correct. You have probubly never seen those figures in your boat unless some thing when wrong. I'll bet a swing date that if those rings have any time on them they have all ready lost there tension
PS I'm an Engineer so F&*K spelling http://free.***boat.net/ubb/smile.gif

[HavasuDreamin']

You have got it apart, go all the way. Re-ring it. Like LS said, it is cheap insurance and this way you know everything is done right! Good Luck

[Beavertim]

Hallett19,
You should, if you haven't already, have the crank measured. If it's out of spec, you'll need a grind and undersized bearings, otherwise your clearances may be too large and contribute to loss of oil pressure. The pistons and rods should be within weight variation specs, but since they're out, it wouldn't hurt to verify that. Also, make sure you hone the cylinders if you put new rings in. Good luck and have fun. Tim

[77charger]

Dude get the rings they only run about 30.00 more.And have a machine shop check the crank out especially the journals were the bearings were scored.Unless you plan on reving 5500 and up all daylong skip the balancing.I believe that most internals are balanced already other wise you would notice alot of shaking or vibration.
I really dont think you would have a problem reassembling as is(current rings and crank).But might as well check a couple of things while it is apart.

[wsm9808]

Didnt you wipe out your cam bearings? The block is going to have to go to the machine shop to get new cam bearings pressed in. Git it hot tanked! your oil passages are full of metal shavings and will damage your new bearings when you fire it up. Get all your rod bores measured also.
Take the block to a machine shop and have him...
Hot tank
cam bearings
hone bores(for new rings) and measure pistons
check rods
vat, measure, polish or grind crank
I'm assuming you only want to do this engine one time.
good luck
ooops, guess i should read the post better, you said hot tank already
[This message has been edited by wsm9808 (edited May 08, 2002).]

[intense]

Replace it with a BBC http://free.***boat.net/ubb/biggrin.gif

[flat broke]

Hallet,
The info you have gotten so far is good, but may not be enough. It would suck for you to go through this exercise only to have to repeat it in a month or so or at the begining of next season. When you take the block, crank, rods, and heads to a machine shop, have them checked out (Some of us here can help you with measurements to see how bad/well off you are). Starting with a known foundation is the most important step. The block needs to be tanked, cleaned, mangnafluxed(optional), then the bores need to be checked for diameter and taper, as well as their squarenes to the block. Your crank needs to be checked for rod and main diameter to determine if you're going to need to cut it to get the proper clearances with oversized bearings, or if you can keep your current diameter and have tight enough clearnaces. Your rods should be checked to make sure that the ID of the crank end hasn't been altered. Your heads... well, if you have em off, just get em checked out if they haven't been looked at in a while. It will cost a little bit, but there wont be questions later. Not knowing when your motor was down last, odds are the block will have wear to the point where you will need to bore it, which in turn will require new pistons. Next since you have it appart, you might as well upgrade the cam but keep it compatible with your current head setup if you are on a budget. What I'm getting at is the saying that is tossed around here from time to time. "Pay once, Cry once". If you just re-ring, re-bearing that motor, odds are your going to be into it again for something, at which point you'll pay for those rings and bearings again. If your plan is to keep the boat, maybe now is the time to put together a plan on how you want to proceed. Chasing symptoms and not taking a big picture approach usually leads to frustration, lack of time on the water, and more money spent than if you had set a plan and done it right the first time. I'm not cutting on you, just sharing my take on your situation. Take a second to stop and think about what you want from this boat today, and next season, then look at the alternatives that will help you accomplish that goal. If the price for what you want exceeds your budget, don't sweat it, I'm sure Froggy or one of us could float you around until your boat is done. Look at it this way, if you took your motor into the shop today, and had them do all of the machining, order a new set of pistions etc, you would have it in your hands in a week ready for assembly. (providing your not getting custom made pistons or something http://free.***boat.net/ubb/wink.gif ) Put up a call on the boards for some folks to help you out with assembly, and you'd be ready to break in the cam in a day or two, plus you'll have first hand knowledge of how your motor was built cause you did it.
Just my .02,
Chris www.liquidaddiction.net (http://www.liquidaddiction.net)
[This message has been edited by flat broke (edited May 09, 2002).]

[058]

Chris, Couldn't have said it better myself. As for pistons you can't beat the TRW/Speed-pro #2404 forged piston for the 460, they are available from Summit or Jegs for about $255.00, thats cheaper than any forged BBC piston.
[This message has been edited by 058 (edited May 09, 2002).]

[spectras only]

Hallett's ears are full already,but one more thing http://free.***boat.net/ubb/wink.gif.When you have the crank checked ,have the oil supply holes chamfered while at it.Just my 0.02

[FoMoCo]

Ok I only offering 1 more time! I have a Spare D1VE Block 460, thats been baked and bead blasted fresh bored .060 over with new cam bearings. Its just wasting away on my garage floor! I could not use it because I could not find 429 pistons that I wanted for .060! I only want half of what I got in her $ 125.00.. I will bw in the LA area this weekend (North Hollywood), helping my brother move, I am driving up from Sacramento, on Sat. I could bring the block with me! Any takers???

[Allan Gorneault]

I would have it balanced at all cost. I am in the process of rebuilding mine and believe me that it may not be even close to balanced right. My machine shop added a lot of weight to the crank and also had one rod lighter than the rest. You won't Feel an out of balance engine but the frequences and harmonics caused by not balancing could be bad.

[HOSS]

Die gring the emissions "humps" and block off your heat risers

[Hallett19]

heat risers, where and what are those ?

[77charger]

hallet leave the porting to the people who do it for a living....unless you plan on another set of heads.

[Bense468]

Hallet did you pass out from reading what you have to do? Hey really though even if you do all of that you are going to have it apart next year because its a FORD. Buy a chevy you will be good.

[77charger]

Originally posted by Bense468:
Hallet did you pass out from reading what you have to do? Hey really though even if you do all of that you are going to have it apart next year because its a FORD. Buy a chevy you will be good.
well i have towed to bowties back this year with a ford.I do like chevys too so dont get me wrong like i am ripping chevys.If it is built right it will last.mine is living proof.

[flat broke]

Originally posted by Bense468:
Hallet did you pass out from reading what you have to do? Hey really though even if you do all of that you are going to have it apart next year because its a FORD. Buy a chevy you will be good.
I'm a chevy guy at heart, and run one in the boat and all of the cars, but the 460 is not a bad mill. If Hallet takes his time and "does it right the first time", the engine will last.... regardless of it's lineage.
Chris

[HOSS]

Heat risers are for a choke. You do not need them and all they do is heat up your intake which robs you of power. I have used Cambell`s soup cans and CDM coffee cans. Cut out about 1and 1/2" x 1". Make sure it covers the entire port. Stick the pieces(1 for each head) on with RED RTV. And that`s it. Free horsepower all day long. Not just at start up.
Oh, and if you do have the emissions humps, you can do it. Anyhting you take out will help. BBFords suck on exhaust side. You can`t take out too much. On the other hand, if you got cash to spare why work?
[This message has been edited by HOSS (edited May 16, 2002).]