ANGLE OF THE DANGLE????

[drunk'n puplick]

Have some questions setting in an intake. what degree to set intake at? Im doing a set-back for the pump, and the boat is 17'. using a jg12,hook me up.

[BrendellaJet]

Try a search, im pretty sure i have seen that answered here before. I wish I knew, I need to set mine too.

[cyclone]

4-degrees.

[flat broke]

Mike is on the money as usual!

[cyclone]

no that was me passing along info passed onto me by the man. i wont say his name to avoid any possible controversy. hee hee.
:D

[roostwear]

cyclone:
no that was me passing along info passed onto me by the man. i wont say his name to avoid any possible controversy. hee hee.
:D Come on! You don't know JACK! Oh, apparently you do. Never mind.

[cyclone]

lol. ssshhh! dont say jack about anything around these parts... :D

[Sangster]

Do you really know Jack..... (http://home.pacbell.net/diana_do/knowjack.htm)

[comin' unscrewed]

Or Greg for that matter. He says 4 degrees too.

[mcshriver]

THE ANGLE OF THE DANGLE IS INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL TO THE SIZE OF THE RISE.

[cyclone]

its unanimous then. greg and you-know-who both say four-degrees. must be four then.

[SoCal Power]

4 deg. is stock. Depending on hull config you can increase angle to lower thrust point and increase lift. Also, increasing angle provides slightly straighter H20 path to impeller. I did an Elimimator 21' Whaler years ago and HB (not HB jet) rigged its sistership. I went stock (4 deg.) and HB went 5+ and the 5+ boat rode a little more free and had a little more top end speed.
Not making any recommendations here, just providing some discussion points.
[ August 15, 2003, 06:46 PM: Message edited by: SoCal Power ]

[AZKC]

"The angle of the dangle is directly proportional to the heat of the meat"
KC

[drunk'n puplick]

Is the ANGLE OF THE DANGLE of 4 degrees correct for any style of hull or just a particular one? Im looking to install one time so there is time for a bud. HOOK ME UP!!!!!!

[TRG]

do you want "BUDZ" or a "BUD"wizer?

[MikeF]

Seems like you have got a PROJECT now that I have spoken to the previous owner. wink
Setting it up is gonna be interesting eek! .
Ideally you want the nozzle as low as possible to make the lift as great as possible (unsure about a flatbottom setup though :confused: ). With a 6 deg low profile intake it will lower the end of the pump and move the nozzle closer to the waterline while running across the water. This intake will require that the engine be mounted at the same 6 deg angle. 4 deg intake is ok too but will probably need the same type of work to set up also so why not go w/ the 6 deg if you can find it. W/ a droop snoot, diverter and wedges you can pretty much accomplish the same adj w/ the 4 deg intake. A 6 deg engine angle will also make it harder to adj the floats on the carb cause now when the boat is sitting in the water or off plane, the carb is now at 12 deg and a little fat on the primary side. You can make or buy an angled card spacer (such as I did on mine). Alot of things to think about when setting a boat up to work as well as possible.
Figuring out where exactly the engine should be mounted is gonna be a task cause you have figure where the CG is the best to keep it from porposing too much(could be a problem), to put the block in w/ the pan on to keep it off the bottom, get the length of the driveshaft correct.
You might want to email KindsvaterFlat and talk to his buddy w/ the ex-race boat Duel in the Sun (Rogers DragStar). It is a flatbottom too. I'm not sure that it is as light as the one you have but his #'s might help you out. Maybe you can use some measurements from him to set yours up.
:cool:

[mud duck]

I thought the "Angle of the Dangle" was in correlation to the heat of the meat which is in proportion to the mass of the ass! :)

[TRG]

i would have to respond to the angle of the dangle is being that it is due south,...only due to the fact of my marital status!! burningm

[drunk'n puplick]

How is the cg figured out? and does it really play a factor in the way the boat performs? I can't afford to loose much seating space. I have two little boys, that wish to hall ass. so the pump need to be set then the cg is figured out, or before the project is started. but once again deos it really matter? or should I just stop asking questions and the pump an motor in? mind you, there are no holes in this hull yet, and I know TRG fiberglass deos not wish to fix unnecessary holes due to my negligence. jawdrop

[MikeF]

I can tell you that when my boat gets on plane it is still kinda stuck to the water. Then as I increase the speed a little more it starts to porpose. Increase the speed a little more and the hull stops porposing and is now slipping more and fre'er from the water and speed is directly related to the amount of water going through the pump (rpm).
When it was a race boat w/ center steering the engine was mounted farther forward than it is now. I know they did it this way for a reason and I'm sure it was a good one wink . Where it is mounted now is because it was turned into a play/ski boat for more than one rider.
Email KindsvaterFlat (Vdrive board)(can't remember the owner of the Duel in the Sun's screen name) to speak w/ him about the position of the engine and the pump. Or, talk to Jack @ MPD as he was the one who placed the engine in the boat in the first place (Although it was an all aluminum blown KB Hemi :D ). I'm not really sure if he kept notes on the setup, but you never know until you ask :D .

[MikeF]

These are just my opinions. (sorry man, I can't keep them in any longer devil )
That hull needs a V drive.
The transom is a little too small for a jet (although the setback pump would more than likely work).
I wish that the Duel in the Sun's colors had not been changed burningm .
And if you have kids, find a bigger boat. That flatbottom will not be very safe. Turning......It probably won't want to turn eek! .
Just my thoughts smile_sp .
Do it if you must.

[SoCal Power]

drunk'n puplick,
Are you installing a stock intake? no shoe/ rideplate/cradle?
If you are going with a stock intake.
Mark the center line of the keel and and bottom of the intake.
Cut the hole in the keel 8" x 20 1/2" with the back of the hole 1" from the inside of the transom. Cut the hole on the small side. You may have to grind a little for clearance to get the intake to drop in. This location will place the intake as far back as possible without cutting into the transom. For the transom (If I'm not using a jig), I start with a 12" x 4" hole, 2" above the keel with 1 1/2" radius corners then cut to fit according to transom sealing method selection. This will be large enough to get the intake set.
Set the fore & aft bottom edges of the intake flush with the bottom of the keel by using SS 3/8-16 x 1" jacking bolts in the corners. Line up the keel C/L marks with the intake C/L marks. This technique will place your suction piece mounting pad (SPMP) @ 4 degrees.
Also, place a straight edge on top of the SPMP parallel to the transom on the outside of the hull and measure to the bottom of the inside strake on both sides. The measurement should be equal. This will set the SPMP level, relative to the inside strakes.
Drill 1/4" mounting holes amd countersink the bottom.
Scribe a line around the perimeter of intake inside the hull and grind the area inside the scribe mark. This area will be epoxied and the grinding will generate a good bonding surface. Also if your intake sealing flange is painted or powercoated, grind it off to the hardcoat.
Mask off the scribed area, mix the putty (Use only Sea Goin' Epoxy Putty just under 2 pints in most cases), apply the putty to the sealing flange with intake upside down a bench. (DON'T JACK WITH JACKING BOLTS) They are what orients the intake to the keel.
Set the intake in the hole.
Insert the flathead bolts and seat them in the countsinks. Clean a little epoxy as you go. Check your C/L marks. Tighten the nuts (FINGER TIGHT). You can easily distort the keel, especially if it's a light layup.
Clean up excess putty with putty knife, rag and acetone. This can get messy, be patient, you have at least seven minutes before the putty gets hard. (just kidding) Try and do the install in 70ish degree temp if possible. Putty is easier to work with.
Since the pump will be further back than stock, the stock transom adaptor will not seal against the transom. You will need to get an extended TA or fab a transom plate.
Again, the transom hole can be cut based on what type of transom sealing system you select.
I may have missed some details but I hope it helps.
If you run a shoe/ride plate/cradle you must take into consideration the configuration of the keel.
I'll cover that in lesson #2.
That's all I have for now. No charge wink
db
[ August 21, 2003, 11:03 PM: Message edited by: SoCal Power ]

[drunk'n puplick]

You state that the boat will not turn, and is not safe because its a flatty or due to the fact im trying to put a jet in it? The problem I have is that I've allready bought this boat, and is there any other remedys or solutions to this problem? If my wife heres this it will cause a huge problem with the boat. :confused: