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View Full Version : Exhaust Hose Help Needed.....FAST!!



AntRant
07-08-2002, 02:10 PM
I have a 78' CVX20 with a 460 and Hardin Logs. Now my problem is the rubber hose that goes from the riser to the tip. Because of the angle and space between the two, marine exhaust hose does not have the flexability. Ive tryed the coragated and soft wall from CP Performance and neither worked. I also tried a piece of strait radiator hose, and that didnt work. It needs to be coragated and soft(like your car hoses). An auto parts place said the only thing thats close to what i need that they can get is the hose that a mechanic put on a tail pipe to get the fumes out of the shop, but that only sold in 11' peices @ about $90. I've alraidy spent about that in hose that does not work. I have a picture if some one need to see what i mean (havent found out how to post pics yet). Some one please help as i need to have the boat runnin before this weekend. Or does anybody know if i have to order from a Glastron dealer. I will pay somebody for the hose and delivery if they have it or can get it....Thanks, Anthony
Almost forgot it's 2 7/8" but i will use 3" if i have to.....
[This message has been edited by AntRant (edited July 08, 2002).]

canuck1
07-08-2002, 03:25 PM
Check with your local distributor/supplier of industrial hoses

spectras only
07-08-2002, 03:26 PM
Antrant,why don't you get a piece of stainless tubing with the correct OD ,cut it an inch shorter between the riser and the tips [one is always shorter because of the offset by the cylinders]and use two short pieces of the soft exhaust hoses each on the exhaust.You just slide the pieces over the SS tubing and clamp it on.I've used this system for 20 years on my jetboat .Never had to buy another rubber exhaust hose.

AntRant
07-08-2002, 03:56 PM
canuck1, I've try a company that does hydrolics and fuel systems (gas pumps). they said they got nothing.

AntRant
07-08-2002, 03:59 PM
spectras only, the gap between the riser and the tip on the side thats the problem is only about 2 3/4" so ther isnt realy enough room for that fix.

HammerDown
07-08-2002, 04:05 PM
I know it's not what ya want to here but....Get some headers!

canuck1
07-08-2002, 04:12 PM
Look under aggricultural supply

spectras only
07-08-2002, 04:23 PM
Antrant,I've looked at your pic you sent me.Your boat must have had the original berkeley manifolds that doesn't match with the Hardin,Nixon or Glenwood type logs.I've forwarded your e-mail to Dave at californiamarine ,he's got risers that should solve this problem.
[This message has been edited by spectras only (edited July 08, 2002).]

Duane HTP
07-08-2002, 07:02 PM
What is the problem you're fighting? Getting the hose on? Here's a little trick that works every time. Remove the exhaust port out of the hull. Measure and cut the length of hose that you need to go between the manifold and the transom. Put one end on the riser. Put both clamps on the hose. Now put a little WD-40 on the inside of the hose, put silicon around the ex port where it goes against the transom and shove it into the hose and clamp it down. Replace the bolts or nuts that hold the port in. Duane HTP

spectras only
07-08-2002, 11:12 PM
Duane ,it's not that simple as you can see on the pic here http://free.***boat.net/ubb/wink.gif http://www3.telus.net/spectrasonly/CVX%20Exhaust.jpg

Kwicherbichen
07-09-2002, 04:13 AM
Not sure how far you want to take this but, I would think about removing the tips and glassing in the holes. Then recut your holes in the proper alignment.
It may not be what you want to hear but it may be the least expensive option if you know how to do the work yourself.

AntRant
07-09-2002, 04:41 AM
Making new holes and glassing the old is not an option due to the rear of the CVX 20. The ports are over as far as they can go...

AntRant
07-09-2002, 04:42 AM
spectras only, Thanks for posting my pic.

AntRant
07-09-2002, 07:15 AM
Is it possable that some one can get there hands on about 20" of 3" corrugatted hose? You know the type your machanic put on the tail pipe so he can start the car in the shop and get the fumes out. Soft like radiator hose. I know this will work, it was on the boat when i bougt it.I will pay you for the hose and shipping....
[This message has been edited by AntRant (edited July 09, 2002).]

comin' unscrewed
07-09-2002, 07:22 AM
Does anyone make a wedge to go between the logs and risers and angle them toward your tips?

HammerDown
07-09-2002, 07:42 AM
Hey Ant, how about going to a garage and asking them if they could supply ya with some hose or send ya in the right direction to get it your self. I would think that hose being so plyable would just give out...And your saying that's what was on there. Dosent seem durable enough.

SoCalPower
07-09-2002, 07:46 AM
You can rotate the risers inward by drilling new stud holes in the risers. I've done this several times and it has worked out.
Good Luck!!
db

hack job
07-09-2002, 08:40 AM
Originally posted by comin' unscrewed:
Does anyone make a wedge to go between the logs and risers and angle them toward your tips?
as of right now there is no one that is why iam doing it my self my problem is simular but its a up down issus there is anther type of riser or tip or logs that might work it has either a 22 deg angle or a 35 deg angle this might help , other wise get your self some bar stock alluminm and make a wedge thats what iam going to be doing today. if i get a chance then i post my results ( provided that i finish! good luck
Tyson www.plumbersassracing.com (http://www.plumbersassracing.com)

stressedout
07-09-2002, 09:03 AM
Hey ant I measured my garage hose here at the shop and it's 3 1/4 id don't know if they make it in 3 or not. It's extremely durable and heat resistant. Maybe you can go to your local garage and get them to cut you a peice. good luck.

AntRant
07-09-2002, 10:27 AM
I know were to get the hose, the only problem is its only sold in 11'lenghts and it cost about $90. Now i've spent close to that in trial and error of hose. Its available in 2 1/2" and 3" also.Funds are getting low and stress is getting high.

froggystyle
07-09-2002, 10:38 AM
My guess is you are not going to be happy with the result of that drastic a turn. You are still funnelling exhaust gasses, and a turn like that will likely cause a blowout on the outside edge where the exhaust heats it up abnormally. The other consideration is that with corrugated tubing (if I am hearing you correctly you are talking about metal tubing) will leak like it is cool once you put that pig in the water. Those tips are below the waterline I imagine, and the exhaust hose has to be watertight as well.
Use your naturally good judgement, but I think the only answer to this question is to get the original manifolds that match up, or figure out a way to re-cut the transom. IMO the $90 is the least of your worries right now. I don't think rubber hose or convoluted metal is going to work.

Old Guy
07-09-2002, 07:21 PM
I am currently working on a boat with a similar problem that I was able to cure by rotating the risers and re-drilling them. I was able to weld up the original holes and re-cut the surface for a good seal. Another boat I had needed new logs. I got some Glenwood manifolds and risers. The alignment was as bad as the situation you have. I had already replaced the floor in the boat and wasn't ready for more glass work. I sawed 2 new holes in the transom where they needed to be. Then I got a couple of pieces of 1/8" aluminum plate and made patches that covered the old holes and included the new holes. Looked like it was supposed to be that way. Worked fine.
old

Duane HTP
07-09-2002, 07:53 PM
I see what you mean now by looking at the picture. Seems to me comin' unscrewed has about the best answer so far.

spectras only
07-09-2002, 11:04 PM
If Antrant wants to keep his risers ,the only solution is to cut the ends angled on both risers and the tips ,and weld short tubes on them .That way the softer exhaust hoses could do the job.If you guys are familiar with these early Glastrons [Art Carlson did some intricate designs]there's a problem for placement ,because of the molded swimplatform and the tight engine space for rotating the risers.I guess Antrant doesn't want to alter his boat too much to accomodate the hardin logs.Those logs are offset too much vertically as well as horizontally.The short Glenwood angled manifolds may work ,but the danger of water reversion would be present at dockside while mooring,even with flappers installed on the tips.I haven't seen a 20 CVX for a long time ,so it's a bit hard to vision what it looks like at the transom outside for the possibility of moving the hole for realign .

flat broke
07-09-2002, 11:11 PM
Ant Rant,
Sorry to see your situation. Comin Unscrewed is right about the wedges, but I'm not sure it would be a safe fix. By eyeballing the picture, it's going to take about a 20-30 degree wedge to get you closer to the correct geometry. Unfortunately what's going to happen is that right where the hose goes over your exhaust tip on the side closest to the pump, you're going to be funneling a lot of exhast gas directly at the hose before it bounces into the tip. That situation is more than likely going to result in a blowout right at the waterline. I would hate to put you in a situation where you would be taking on water through your exhaust tip.
If you want to try the wedge idea, Hack Job and myself might be able to make them for you, but I couldn't promise anything and we'd need pretty exact measurements on your logs and risers. We'd also need you to provide us with the bolt circle centered on the diameter of the log to drill the holes for the studs to pass through. Honestly, I would look for another solution, but if we have enough billet material left we might be able to help you out. I know how bad it sucks to be stuck at a place where even if you had tons of cash, the part to get you out of a fix doesn't exist. Email me at admin@liquidaddiction.net if you have any questions and I'll let you know if we have enough material left to help you out.
Good luck,
Chris

bajaruner
07-09-2002, 11:36 PM
Is your engine covered?
[This message has been edited by bajaruner (edited July 10, 2002).]

AntRant
07-10-2002, 06:45 AM
spectras only, you said it all....I really dont want to start cutting any thing because this is not the setup i plan in keeping forever. The danger of water reversion was also my concern fron the other ideas and the turnin of the riser is not an option as you know. Im just looking fo a fast/cheap fix for the season (asking alot i know). I'll email you a pic of the rear of the CVX so people can understand the problem with the swim platform. What does everbody mean by "wedge"? and yes my engine is covered

SoCalPower
07-10-2002, 05:01 PM
Why can't you rotate the risers? Reversion shouldn't be an issue since the overall riser height will not change very much when rotated. Wedges are a pain.....one more surface to seal, mounting studs have to be perpendicular to riser, manifold and wedge. Plus the cost to fabricate. Rotating risers is easy and free.
I'll shut the hell up now
db

Jet Junk
07-15-2002, 07:36 PM
My 77 cvx had this same problem. This may sound like some kind of rigging, but my friend that owns an exhaust shop took some mandrel bent tubing and crossed the left side log over to the right side transom dump and vice versa on the other side and used short pieces of hose to connect the pipes to the dumps and logs. Since it is only aluminized steel it will probably rust through eventually, but it has been on there for a while already......Tommy

Infomaniac
07-16-2002, 07:58 AM
You can get tips that have 45 degree angles on the inside.