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View Full Version : whats the right way to control water temp&press



badbug
12-18-2002, 02:38 PM
I need to know exactly how to route water lines on jet boat while being able to keep water temp at steady temp while also maintaining a water pressure of less than 22 lbs. I have a 1100 hp motor and dont want to restrict water flow with restrictor cause when I hammer down and make that 1100 hP, i want to have plenty of water volumn to keep engine temp from climbing too high. I also was wondering if you put a large pressure pop off, would that cause the jet pump to loose any amount of efficiency with a leak of the size of a large pop off valve dumping overboard? thanks gary

Nubbs
12-18-2002, 03:12 PM
What's your exhaust setup? Headers? Exhaust logs? The water connections will vary depending upon what you have.

roco racing
12-18-2002, 06:05 PM
1100 hp? OT headers i hope.

Cheyenne 572
12-18-2002, 07:17 PM
Badbug call me and i can give you my set-up off my Cheyenne or i can talk you through it.It is really easy.If you are talking about the edge you have thru transit headers no problem.Or you could call Dan at JETT PERFORMANCE {623-780-1909}.
Cheyenne 572

PLACECRAFT20
12-19-2002, 07:37 AM
look in the new issue of hot boat under jet tech. the water issue is addressed very well. good luck

Unchained
12-20-2002, 02:59 PM
Gary,
Here's the same boring picture that I put up so many times. http://www.childsdale-ind-prop.com/jetpump.jpg
In addition to the pressure bypass that I had set so low there was almost no pressure on the spring/ball I screwed a 5/16 orifice into the 3/8" pipe nipple coming right off the pump and the whole setup worked pretty well. The problem isn't not having enough cooling water, The problem was way too much water pressure and volume.
And yes, that's snow under the door.
Good luck
Mark

stc37
12-21-2002, 05:09 AM
Last supercharged jet boat I had, I found a really trick billet manually controlled valve with basically a ball valve with 3 or 5 different sized openings and a closed setting. We used one for header water and one for engine cooling. I also found some trick mechanical temp guages that screwed into the large coolant plugs on the ends of Chevy heads. That way I could monitor head temp in addition to intake manifold temp. I liked the manually controlled valve because you can really control your temps for warm up and colder waters. It was also nice to be able to control header flow to keep headers cool and sound level somewhat lower and then be able to shut it off so you could dry out the headers to prevent water from getting into cylinders and ruining your whole day! I got them from Auto Marine Engineering in Glendora, CA 626-963-1211 or 626-335-1315.

stc37
12-21-2002, 05:16 AM
http://www.rexmar.com/page228.html Just found a valve like I used to use in the Rex Marine online catalog page 228, under exhaust header valves. Hopefully the image comes out.

stc37
12-21-2002, 05:19 AM
web page (http://www.rexmar.com/page228.html) lets try this link instead.

GlastronGuy
12-21-2002, 11:48 AM
Unchained:
Gary,
Here's the same boring picture that I put up so many times. http://www.childsdale-ind-prop.com/jetpump.jpg
In addition to the pressure bypass that I had set so low there was almost no pressure on the spring/ball I screwed a 5/16 orifice into the 3/8" pipe nipple coming right off the pump and the whole setup worked pretty well. The problem isn't not having enough cooling water, The problem was way too much water pressure and volume.
And yes, that's snow under the door.
Good luck
Mark I run that exact valve but I have it plumbed into the intake manifold.

stc37
12-21-2002, 10:07 PM
I ran a line to the valve and mounted it to a bracket so it was near the forward/reverse controls. That way I could control engine and header temps while on the go. I couldn't find the larger valve for the engine cooling system, but you could always use a brass home plumbing ball valve (a buddy of mine with an old flatbottom uses one with no problems). :)

HammerDown
12-21-2002, 10:23 PM
I run and like the Rex Thermostat and Bassett-T...I plumbed like LV's set-up and it works perfect with low block pressure.

HBjet
12-22-2002, 07:56 PM
badbug:
steady temp while also maintaining a water pressure of less than 22 lbs.I run a water pressure regulator. It regulates the exiting water pressure from 25-75 psi. and has a max intake pressure of 400 psi. With the HP your pushing, this setup would be best for you. I picked mine up from Grainger for 50+ bucks. It works perfect! It maintains the water temp around 150 degrees and when I come off plain, it moves up to 160, but thats it. FYI, you should have a manual valve on your water exit line (from the block) to control the water temp. The more open, the colder the temp, the more closed, the warmer the temp.
Here's mine
http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Gearhead_Garage/Other_Equipment/regulator.JPG
Good Luck!
HBjet

GlastronGuy
12-22-2002, 08:38 PM
HBjet
How's that bilge pump working for you?
wink

77charger
12-22-2002, 08:46 PM
GlastronGuy:
HBjet
How's that bilge pump working for you?
wink If that is the auto pump i have one and can say that it works good for me.But do wish it had a manual mode since it shuts down when the load decreases(if boat rocks to the other side and water moves)But overall i do like it and recomend it.

Rexone
12-22-2002, 08:56 PM
GlastronGuy:
HBjet
How's that bilge pump working for you?
wink Those work great for increasing bilge water circulation wink

HBjet
12-22-2002, 11:11 PM
GlastronGuy:
HBjet
How's that bilge pump working for you?
wink When it's hooked up it works great!
(Photo was taken just after the regulator was installed and before the bilge exit hose re-installed)
My bilge is an auto and I've never had a problem. Cheap Insurance!
HBjet

JetBoatRich
12-23-2002, 05:25 PM
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GlastronGuy
12-23-2002, 06:40 PM
JetBoatRich:
. Postcount +1?