SCORE!...502, ROLLER, 4 BOLT MAIN BBC BARE BLOCK W/ CRANK

[THE BOSTON SIDEWINDER]

I GOT A 1998 GEN VI. I WAS WONDERING WHO HAS BUILT ONE THAT PULLS REALLY HARD. WHAT PARTS WERE USED? BRANDS? CAM CHOICE? DOES USING ALUMINUM PARTS FOR HEADS, AND ROTATING ASSEMBLY MAKE THINGS A LOT LIGHTER, OR JUST REALLY EXPENSIVE? DOES CONVERTING TO EFI MAKE A REALLY BIG DIFFERENCE? DOES GOING OUT 30 OR 40 THOUSANTHS ON THE BORE MAKE A LOT MORE POWER? DO THE PARTS COST A LOT MORE? MY LONG TERM PLAN IS TO WHIPPLE-CHARGE IT AND PUT IT INTO A HEAVIER HULL WITH A CUDDY CABIN, I ALSO WANT TO RUN THAT NEW DUAL PUMP DRIVE AND STILL WANT TO DO AT LEAST 60. THE SHORT TERM GOAL IS TO PUT IT IN MY 18" SIDEWINDER, WITH A CARB SET UP, W/ BERK 12JG, TO BLAST AROUND BOSTON HARBOR WITH. ANY IDEAS?...THANKS, BILL.

[flat broke]

Bill,
Sounds like you got a good foundation to start working with. A couple of things I have learned in doing the last couple incarnations of my motor.
Custom pistons, rods etc. typically cost the same regardless of overbore or clearancing. In other words, if you want to punch the block .040, might was well go ahead and do it because the stock bore piston will probalby be right around the same price as the overbore.
Second, build the motor for your specific HP demands. If you are going to run a whipple with the dual pump setup, you need to do 2 important things. 1. Have a very long conversation with whoever is setting up your dual drive and find out what kind of RPM will get you to the speed you need for the hull you're going to use. Then find out how much HP it takes to turn the impellers at the specified RPM. Now you know how much HP you'll need at what RPM and your builder can get you going in the right direction. 2. if you are going to go forced induction, buy the forced induction specific parts the first time around. 9.5:1 NA pistons are different than a 8 or 8.5:1 low compression blower piston. Cam profiles also differ for blower setups, versus trying to squeeze every last bit of air into the heads in a NA situation. If you want to minimize your cost and work over the long run, take a good look at the hull you're gonna use, find out how much HP its gonna need, then build the best motor you can afford to get that HP at the RPM your application requires. Building a kick ass motor without respect to its application will most assuredly have you buying different parts down the road to get things working how you had orriginally hoped.
Good Luck,
Chris

[THE BOSTON SIDEWINDER]

I'M TOLD I HAVE TO RUN ALUNIMUM HEADS TO GET THE ENGINE TO DO 600 HP. HAS ANYONE EVER SEEN BRONZE LINED HEADS, FOR SALT WATER COOLING?...BILL.

[THE BOSTON SIDEWINDER]

IF I PUNCH OUT A 502 BLOCK .060 INCHES OVER WILL THAT GIVE ME 540 CU IN?...BILL.

[O.B eddie]

THE BOSTON SIDEWINDER:
IF I PUNCH OUT A 502 BLOCK .060 INCHES OVER WILL THAT GIVE ME 540 CU IN?...BILL. No you need a 1/4 inch stroke to get 540 60 over would give you some wher in th 520's i think without doin the math..

[Infomaniac]

4.6 bore will get you a 532 with the stock stroke.
4.560 is a 523
I can give you an unbeatable deal on the Whipple when you are ready

[THE BOSTON SIDEWINDER]

HEY INFOMANIAC, I HAVE TO ASK...WHAT IS THE DEAL ON THE WHIPPLECHARGER? ANY PICS? THANKS MUCH...BILL.

[comin' unscrewed]

The formula for cubic inch displacement is:
bore x bore x stroke x number of cylinders x .7854

[wrightnow]

THE BOSTON SIDEWINDER:
I'M TOLD I HAVE TO RUN ALUNIMUM HEADS TO GET THE ENGINE TO DO 600 HP. HAS ANYONE EVER SEEN BRONZE LINED HEADS, FOR SALT WATER COOLING?...BILL. Check the last issue of HB, there is a write up of a 496 on pump gas, cast iron 990 heads dyno @ 732hp, so no you dont need alumn. head to see 600hp
Mark