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View Full Version : sanding and painting a boat any help?



jdog
09-11-2003, 04:12 PM
I want to repaint my boat. I know I need to take everything out or off of it. Do I just start sanding the old paint off? If yes what type of sand paper? What kind of tools? How deep do I sand? I know it may sound silly, but any info would be helpful. THe paint job will probably be done professionally, But I thought I could save if I did some of the sanding and primer myself.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jay.

1Bahnerjet
09-11-2003, 05:57 PM
From what I've read since being on these Boards is, go to HavasuBarney's Web site they Walk you Though step by step.
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Thats BANNER with an H

corlish
09-11-2003, 06:11 PM
jdog,
first, unless you have some experience with bodywork / refinishing or are willing to go slow and take a lot of time to learn the skill you could actually end up costing your self more. It is very easy to turn a smooth / flat surface into one with sanding ridges, humps, bumps and etc. While it may be tempting to do some of the work yourself, if you are not careful you may create more work for the professional that actually sprays the boat.
If you do decide to do some of it yourself, you need to determine what you have ... is it the original gel coat or has it been painted with an automotive type of paint?
If it is the original gel coat a good all-purpose grade of sandpaper would be some 80-100 grit for knocking the surface down and getting a good base to apply new gel / primer on. I want to stress that you really need some experience with this ... if you put a pad on a drill you WILL create a mess that someone else will have to clean up.
If your old "paint" is automotive paint on top of the original gel coat then if it were me I would get a box of razor blades and scrape all of the old paint off down to the original gel coat. Once you get a feel for it is pretty easy and provided you don't gouge the surface too badly you may actually save some money this way.
If you are going to go the automotive paint route you will probably want to go up a few grades to some 220 - 320 (it really depends on the material that you plan to use ... read instructions and ask folks at the paint store about surface prep).
As far as putting new gel coat down, there are some folks on the boards much more qualified than I, specifically Todd Griggs and Havasu Barney should be able to answer some ?'s
Corey

corlish
09-11-2003, 06:11 PM
jdog,
first, unless you have some experience with bodywork / refinishing or are willing to go slow and take a lot of time to learn the skill you could actually end up costing your self more. It is very easy to turn a smooth / flat surface into one with sanding ridges, humps, bumps and etc. While it may be tempting to do some of the work yourself, if you are not careful you may create more work for the professional that actually sprays the boat.
If you do decide to do some of it yourself, you need to determine what you have ... is it the original gel coat or has it been painted with an automotive type of paint?
If it is the original gel coat a good all-purpose grade of sandpaper would be some 80-100 grit for knocking the surface down and getting a good base to apply new gel / primer on. I want to stress that you really need some experience with this ... if you put a pad on a drill you WILL create a mess that someone else will have to clean up.
If your old "paint" is automotive paint on top of the original gel coat then if it were me I would get a box of razor blades and scrape all of the old paint off down to the original gel coat. Once you get a feel for it is pretty easy and provided you don't gouge the surface too badly you may actually save some money this way.
If you are going to go the automotive paint route you will probably want to go up a few grades to some 220 - 320 (it really depends on the material that you plan to use ... read instructions and ask folks at the paint store about surface prep).
As far as putting new gel coat down, there are some folks on the boards much more qualified than I, specifically Todd Griggs and Havasu Barney should be able to answer some ?'s
Corey

brianwhiteboy
09-11-2003, 06:44 PM
jdog,
I'm going through this exact thing right now. I have an 18' jet boat that has paint on top of gel. The paint is heavily checked from the sun and looks like shit. I took a puddy and started scraping away at it and it's coming out better than expected.
Since my paint is so cracked, I'm able to scrape all the way down to the last coat of primer without gouging the hull. From there I'm using 3M 80 grit wet/dry to sand down to the gel. Talk to Havasu Barney....I've spoke with him a few times this week and he has been more than helpful.
Main thing is not to screw up the paint even more. Like I say, mine is coming off relatively easy with a puddy knife, then it's really time to put some elbow grease into hand sanding the primer to reveal the gel. I'll post some pics in a few days.
Brian

Jake W
09-11-2003, 06:49 PM
I will have to disagree on the grit DO not use 80 or 100 to rough that would Fup the lines and curves these boat have, in a hurry.I would be hesitant to use 150.
Jake wink

Jake W
09-11-2003, 07:01 PM
I think I should explane my post a bit .This guy says he knows nothing about how to sand the boat and you guys are going to turn him loose with 80 grit on a fiberglass boat.That thing wont have a round edge left on it.
Jake eek!

corlish
09-11-2003, 07:32 PM
Jake,
You are right ... but a guy that is going to "round" every corner off of a boat sanding it will do it with 400 if he is determined. :D
Corey

corlish
09-11-2003, 07:32 PM
Jake,
You are right ... but a guy that is going to "round" every corner off of a boat sanding it will do it with 400 if he is determined. :D
Corey

BrendellaJet
09-11-2003, 08:08 PM
80 grit on original gel works fine. You just need to rough the surface completely, no more. If you just sand a small spot with a couple of strokes, you will still see some shiny spots left, the finish needs to be consistent, once that is reached, stop. I have been using an orbital sander with great success. Gel is also more forgiving than paint. Do not finish sand the gel with the orbital-do that by hand.

jdog
09-11-2003, 09:34 PM
Hey guys, I think I'm biting off more than I can chew. I don't have any experience. I appreciate the replies. This is a 1970 classic jet boat with the rounded backs and great lines. I don't want to screw it up! Maybe I will just have it done professionally. The paint is good. I don't like the color. I don't know if there is a gel under the paint or not. Did they use gels back then? I know it's been painted before. You could see the old metal flake.
THanks for the help!! Jay

HavasuBarney
09-11-2003, 09:45 PM
Good call jdog! :)
Let the guy sqeezing the trigger do the bodywork. The quality of the prep work is going to determine the outcome. :)

jdog
09-12-2003, 10:20 AM
Thanks Havasubarney,
I heard that before. The prep is the important part. I'm sure a painter wants to do his own prepping anyway so he could be happy with the whole finished product.
Jay