Imco tanks

[OMEGA_BUBBLE_JET]

anyone got some imco stainless gunnel tanks for sale? just looked into getting my tank fixed and ouch. time for a new pair.
Omega

[skeepwerkzaz]

Good luck finding a pair. Used ones in good shape are hard to come by, people just don't want/need to give them up. I tried for about a year to find a set, and then just popped the extra $200 or so for a brand spankin new set of 11 gal stainless jobs directly from Imco. I think that they were around $550 to my door.
Clay

[Squirtcha?]

Yeah, he's probably right Omega. I bought my Imco stainless gunwale tanks last year. I paid $400 for em used. They work great and still look pretty good. There are a couple dings where a wrench musta hit em, but you can hardly see it. I'm betting that odds of finding a used set aren't too good. I'd highly recommend em though. My set was made in 1978 (etched into the tank's metal label) and they're holding up real fine. It'd probably be the last set you'd ever need.
[ August 27, 2003, 07:28 AM: Message edited by: Squirtcha? ]

[OMEGA_BUBBLE_JET]

I have a question. when you are going from a factory setup where the tanks were glassed into the side of the boat. how do you secure the straps to the hull? I thought about glassing in a 2X6 and then screwing to that. Just curious how you guys are doing it.
Omega

[Jbb]

Lightning made the tanks in my boat.I think they might be a little less pricey than Imco...

[BrendellaJet]

Omega, mine WERE through bolted to the hull. leaked like you dont ever want to see. I glassed the holes and am going to glass in a 2x2 to bolt em to.

[Squirtcha?]

Just took some pics and I'm getting em loaded up to the website. While I'm waiting...........I did some research on the mounting before I did mine. A good source told me to use countersunk stainless steel screws and come up through the bottom. I was hoping to make some sort of wooden cradle like you're talking about, but lots of folks had problems with em shaking loose etc. Apparently screwing through the bottom was the way to go. I test fit, re-test fit, marked, checked marks, re-checked marks n fit, then drilled through the bottom. My boat only had about a 1/4" of glass where I had made my marks. I ended up using 5/16" stringer washers and counter sunk them so the heads on the bolts would fit flush. Gooped the threads and bottoms of the washers with water proof sealant and used nylock stainless nuts on the inside to hold the brackets. It looks a little hokey, but after many lake/river trips (without a problem) I'm convinced that this is about as strong as you can get em.
http://jetboat.homestead.com/files/bolthead2.JPG
http://jetboat.homestead.com/files/boltinside2.JPG
http://jetboat.homestead.com/files/bolthead1.JPG
[ August 27, 2003, 08:46 AM: Message edited by: Squirtcha? ]

[Cs19]

you can do it like cyclone did or you can use buttonhead 5/16 bolts. I dont think countersinking is a good idea unless its a thick bottom. The idea is to spread the load. keep in mind you need to use you existing fuel fills.

[Cs19]

oops i meant squirtcha not cyclone

[Squirtcha?]

Amen to that CS..........Clearance was a big issue when I did mine. I had to mount the back hoops/brackets. Slide the tanks in from the front (with their hoops/brackets already on the tank, then squeeze in to get the front hardware on (very tight) and it took two people, one below and one up top. I didn't have enough clearance between the gunwale and the bottom to open the hoops up to put the tanks in otherwise (unless I wanted to bend the top part of the hoop to almost 90 degrees). Make sure everything is lined up properly before drilling any holes (if you end up doing it this way.
http://jetboat.homestead.com/files/clearance.JPG
[ August 27, 2003, 09:10 AM: Message edited by: Squirtcha? ]