cracked block

[tripp]

Anyone know how to fix cracked 460? No water in oil just a nice 3" crack behind the flywheel at about 10 o'clock. Brand new just before winter has about 3 hours on it and I am bummed out.
Winter is not my friend right know.Can anyone offer the right solution?
Thanks in advance,
Tripp

[Nubbs]

I've never fixed a cracked block before, but I would think you could grind the crack to a V and weld it. Anybody else have experience in this area?

[sleekster]

i have inquired about it before and i was told you have to heat up the piece red hot and it is more of a brazing process, it is an involved process so i was told unless it is rare piece it
is usaully not cost effective.

[Blown 472]

tripp:
Anyone know how to fix cracked 460? No water in oil just a nice 3" crack behind the flywheel at about 10 o'clock. Brand new just before winter has about 3 hours on it and I am bummed out.
Winter is not my friend right know.Can anyone offer the right solution?
Thanks in advance,
Tripp Why not just get another block, they are all over the place?? Maybe call engine systems and ask them, they are in georgia.

[tripp]

thanks so far guys. The problem is its been bored, balanced and I kinda hate to start over ya know?
At what point after two years of restoration do I get to just go to the water, crank it up and enjoy?
Tripp

[Blown 472]

tripp:
thanks so far guys. The problem is its been bored, balanced and I kinda hate to start over ya know?
At what point after two years of restoration do I get to just go to the water, crank it up and enjoy?
Tripp Run it and turn your bilge pump on?

[Jet Hydro]

Step #1.Drill a small hole at each end of the crack. This will help you stop the crack from running.
Step #2.Grind the crack to a V
Step #3.Weld it with cast rod.
It will work as I`v done it many time`s.
Good luck!

[tripp]

thanks Jet hydro-guys please keep the ideas comming.
Tripp

[burbanite]

Jet Hydro:
Step #1.Drill a small hole at each end of the crack. This will help you stop the crack from running.
Step #2.Grind the crack to a V
Step #3.Weld it with cast rod.
It will work as I`v done it many time`s.
Good luck! Has worked for me as well. Easiest stick welding I have ever done.

[OMEGA_BUBBLE_JET]

allright you will probably think I'm full of crap here but I had a buddy that cracked his block and we ground it down with a die grinder and a carbide tip and put some JB weld in it. He drove the truck for 2 more years before he sold it with no problems. JB weld is like duct tape. It fixes just about anything and cheap too.

[73SangerSuperJet]

I had a 455 with cracks on both sides of the block, and some one ground them and JB'ed them. The block didn't leak as far as I could tell.....
Just my .000000000002 cents :D
Louis

[OMEGA_BUBBLE_JET]

one more thing. If you are running logs and go with the jb weld. run most of your cooling water out of the back of the boat to keep the pressure in the block down. I know before I re-routed mine I was pushing 30psi through the block. Now i run my water from pump into back of logs for preheat then out of the front of logs into block no thermostat out of water neck and out the back of boat. Then I took one of the plugs out on intake to supply the snails with a mist of water. This will help performance wise too. Less water in exhaust=less back pressure. cause remember that pump is pushing a hell of alot of water through that motor. the reason for the preheat is it performs better that way. idle temp is about 180^f and running is about 165^f. Just where I like it. The lack of thermostat keeps it free flowing with no pressure. After I rerouted water now pressure is a mere 5 psi. Much more user friendly. Good luck......

[miketsouth]

I have welded cast iron, and have used JBWeld too. Both are effective ways to repair the leak.
The big question is where does the crack start and end. Can you get to both sides of the crack, and does it extend into the crank seal area, or head/block interface? I think if it does your screwed.
The nickle rod will work here. Dont scrimp on the rod. (if i remember right the good nickle rod costs about $5 a rod). If you cannot weld like a champ get someone else to do it for you. Prep is important here for the weld or the epoxy.
The welding process goes like this (or rather what i have done):
1. Prep. End drill and grind a vee. Vee to about 3/4 thru the block and at 45-60 degrees
2. 1/2" long beads at a time. Peen each one with the sharp end of the welding hammer to expand and stress-relieve the weld. This will help from deforming the rest of the block and prevents cracking at the weld/cast iron interface.
3. Grind between each weld such that you dont include any slag into the new weld.
The epoxy process goes like this (or rather what i have done).
1. Prep, end drill, and grind a shallow vee. Vee should be about 50% thru the block and 30-45degrees. Rough surfaces are best here. Extend roughness and cleanlyness well on either side of the crack.
2. Clean implicity. Epoxy will not stick to oil or dirt or anything. Use a degreaser specific to the epoxy used.
3. Temperatures MUST be above 70F for the epoxy to cure. The mix must be exact. Lay it in with pressure and well to either side and around the crack.
There are better epoxies than JBWeld. The first one that comes to mind is BELZONA This is some of the baddest shit i EVER seen.
Their website is down now, or i would provide you the specific link of the product i used. Belzona is very expensive, but worth every penny. WWW.BELZONA.COM (http://WWW.BELZONA.COM)
Another process i have seen is (i think i remember the term) COLD WELDING. This involves drilling a hole, tapping it with a special taper tap, screwing a special screw into the hole until it breaks off, peening the end and beginning the process again right next to the previous hole. I never done this one myself but seen it years ago.
Good luck
mike

[ezstriper]

I HAVE REPAIRED CRACKED BLOCKS WITH NO PROBLEM WITH JB WELD, I USED A DREMEL GRIND THE CRACK REAL GOOD, AND ROUGH UP AREA AROUND CRACK, DRILL OR GRIND A HOLE AT EACH END, WIPE DOWN WITH L.THINNER USE PLENTY OF JB AND SMOOTH OUT ON A WARM DAY, LET IT SIT 24 HRS AND ROLL ON, ROB...

[malcolm]

I have fixed a block with those tapered cast plugs before. They call it sewing the block. At least that's what the old timer who sold me the plugs and tap called it. Just like miketsouth said, you just keep puting them in, overlapping the last one a little bit. I put a little red locktite on each one as they went in. They worked real good.

[matt1]

hey Malcolm I think they call that process metallocking.

[DansBlown73Nordic]

I have a good friend who does nothing but repair cracked heads and blocks. There is a little more to it then JB weld.... wink
This guy has fixed some fire engine engines that were one of a kind non replaceable engines. He uses a special tapered plug that is threaded. It screwes into the crack. I have seen him do it and its unreal how it works.

[Jet Hydro]

But when none of that works:::::Just do it right !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Step #1.Drill a small hole at each end of the crack. This will help you stop the crack from running.
Step #2.Grind the crack to a V
Step #3.Weld it with cast rod.
It will work as I`v done it many time`s.
Good luck!

[malcolm]

matt1, I think everyone who does it comes up with their own name for it. :D
Hydro, have you done this with the engine still together? I have a local cast iron repair guy in my neighborhood so I haven't had to try that yet. wink

[GM Killer]

Even though I bleed Ford Blue, I must admit that the 460 blocks are crap. My side yard is a 460 graveyard. I have seen the blocks come apart in the webbing, cylinder walls crack, and the exterior of the block crack. The newer blocks are stronger then the older blocks, but the walls are thinner. Always get these blocks sonic checked, and try not to go more then .080 over. This is just from my experience, so take it for what its worth.

[Jet Hydro]

malcolm:
Hydro, have you done this with the engine still together? I have a local cast iron repair guy in my neighborhood so I haven't had to try that yet. wink Yes.
It`s best to do it all together. Keep`s Distorting of the block down.
You`v got to use your head and take your time not to put to much heat in the block as your doing it. It doesn't take much to hold a block together as there`s not much pressure in the water jackets.
Weld about 1" at a time and let it cool down.As it`s cooling down ping it with a sharp punch to help releave any stress you may be causing. I find it works best to start at one end do the first 1" and then go to the other end doing the same. Working to the middle of the crack. That helps keep the crack from running on ya.
Everyone has there own way of welding cast blocks up and if you haven't done one it may be best to let someone that has do it for you.
I`v even see guy try to do it with brass and a torch but I like the cast rod way my self.
I wouldn't use JB weld myself but have seen it done as well. To me the JB weld wont stay in as long and why skimp on your block?
I`v got to much pride to cut corners on mine.
[ April 08, 2003, 12:42 PM: Message edited by: Jet Hydro ]

[malcolm]

Ouch, don't say braze it up! I tried that on an old 360 ford one time. I could never get it hot enough for anything to stick. By the time I gave up and junked it the small crack was a 1/4" wide. :D
We had a full sized Cummins block brazed up after the owner let it freeze, but we totally disassembled it and it was heated first. It came out beautiful.
If done carefully I don't see anything wrong with your method. It might have saved my old 360. wink