Amp wiring....

[DickDanger]

Rather than letting any more "audio specialists" into my boat (see: Audio Shoppe fiasco), I am gonna wire the amp myself. However, can someone provide me with a basic wiring diagram, or which wire goes where so I dont bone this up. Thanks in advance -Dick "Will probably catch his boat on fire" Danger Out

[ROZ]

DickDanger:
Rather than letting any more "audio specialists" into my boat (see: Audio Shoppe fiasco), I am gonna wire the amp myself. However, can someone provide me with a basic wiring diagram, or which wire goes where so I dont bone this up. Thanks in advance -Dick "Will probably catch his boat on fire" Danger Out What is the model number of the amp? Running your 4 speakers, right?

[DickDanger]

Roz, it is the Alpine Model # MRP-F240. I need some solid advice on the type of wiring to use, etc. It seems to me that a set of connectors goes to the head unit, another to the speakers, and wire into the battery, with a fuse block. Am I even close here? LMAO....-DD Out

[rivercrazy]

You have 3 sets of connections:
1. RCA interconnects. These supply the source signal from the head unit to the amps. You also need to run a REM wire from the head unit to the amp. The head unit tells the amp to fire up and turn off as you turn the head unit on and off.
2. Power and ground wire. These supply the amps with juice. Make sure you properly fuse the power wire. If you are only running one amplifer, just use one fuse. If your running multiple amps via a distribution block, make sure any change in wire gauge are individually fused.
3. Speaker wire. If you have a 4 channel amp, just connect each lead off the amp to the proper speaker. If its a two channel, you need to figure out if you need to "series wire" or "parallel wire". It all depends on the safe ohm load your amp is rated for.

[ROZ]

In adding to what RiverCrazy said:
Use 8 ga power and ground wire all the way to the battery. Fuse it about 18 inches from the battery. You'll probably only need a 20 amp fuse.
The remote turn on switch gets wired to the blue/white wire from your head unit.
14/16 ga speaker wire.
Run the crossover in full pass mode.
Have fun!
One more thing....Since the amp has barrier strip connecting plates, use good locking spade connectors. Get the type that are nylon vs vinyl insulated if they have them. If you have the time and a soldering iron, solder the end of the wire to the connector as well as crimping the insulator...Not necessary, but a little added strength never hurts.
[ March 11, 2003, 10:12 AM: Message edited by: ROZ ]

[Froggystyle]

ROZ:
If you have the time and a soldering iron, solder the end of the wire to the connector as well as crimping the insulator...Not necessary, but a little added strength never hurts. Actually, master... wink
You should not crimp and solder. You should either crimp OR solder. Crimping and soldering creates a stiff point of failure. You are applying way more stress to the base of the connector than you would normally.
If you are going to crimp, crimp it properly with a staking tool. If you are going to solder, make sure you don't use too much solder so that it works it's way up the wire into the insulation. You will create a fatigue point there.
Now, on a big 8 gauge wire hard mounted in a boat, you will probably not ever have a problem. On a small 18 gauge wire to the dashboard, you can create a serious weak point in the harness. If you do it to all of them, you will create a ton a little weak points.
The only ring terminals I have ever seen fail were those that were both soldered and crimped. They broke at the base of the connector where the solder stopped.
Don't feel bad, I only found this out over Christmas.

[ROZ]

Wow, never had a problem with it...I like to crimp then top the tip onto the connector. Of my own crimps that I've checked after removing the terminal's insulation, I haven't noticed the solder saturated past the crimp. Just been lucky to not have failure I guess. I think I'll experiment with it tonight...As with anything, there's always room for improvement. Thanks

[rivercrazy]

I don't think a solder connection is going to weaken the weakest point in the wire. Whenever you have a crimp connection the wire still has a solid point that will be subject to more stress.
Thats would proper routing and zip-ties are for!
I always solder a crimp connection also. I usually do it up from where the crimp was performed (i.e. closer to where the connector attaches to its mount) Then I use heat shrink wrap over the crimped and soldered connection whereever possible

[Froggystyle]

ROZ:
Wow, never had a problem with it...I like to crimp then top the tip onto the connector. Of my own crimps that I've checked after removing the terminal's insulation, I haven't noticed the solder saturated past the crimp. Just been lucky to not have failure I guess. I think I'll experiment with it tonight...As with anything, there's always room for improvement. Thanks I have found that the biggest problem most amateur electricians run into is too much solder, and too much crimp. Both will cause damage to the connection. I wouldn't imagine that you would solder too much, as you have a lifetime of experience at it. Just enough in other words.
The aviation industry is the most anal retentive group of riggers you have ever seen. My brother is an A/P mechanic, and my father just completed (with my brother) a 2 seat carbon fiber unlimited aerobatic experimental plane. They know quite a bit about the theory behind the construction, or in my brothers case the absolute best implementation of a given set of components. If it was better, the aviation industry would probably use it. That being said, they don't solder any connections. It is all properly crimped. Now don't get me wrong, this isn't some Kragen $6 crimp tool... this tool is between $120 and $200 depending on brand. They are amazing, leverage actuated crimping tools that will provide exactly the right amount of force for a given connection. You will not see any solder with it though.
For all those who want to test it, crimp an end with smaller wire, to speed up the test. Then just solder an end with the same wire. Then, oversolder one. put all three into a vice and wiggle the connectors. The over-soldered one breaks every time, and quickly. It breaks right where the solder stops, and there is no connecter to support it. The crimp one will take a very long time to break. The just-soldered one will break before the crimp, but not much before it.
In any case, you can get a soldering iron for $10. The right crimping tool is expensive.
The method I use on all of my rigging is to use non-insulated connectors and heat-shrink tubing. With the non-insulated, I can get a far higher quality crimp than I have been able to acheive with insulated connectors, and with the shink tube it provides a little more support to the weakest point, where it exits the connector.

[DickDanger]

Ha-HAAAA....Success!!!!! After getting everything together, it came out tits....thats the good news. The bad news is: I am going to have to get a second battery with a perko just to make sure that it doesnt drain too much....LMAO. I figured, rather than let some wanker crawl around in my boat, and start it up while Im not there (Audio Shoppe did just that), why not do it to my own satisfaction? Thanks for all of the great advice, and help. BTW Roz, I like how ya said "have fun"....LOL!!! -Dick "Didnt catch his boat on fire once" Danger Out

[locogringo]

I find, though I pretty much just sell the stuff to customers and use it for my own use, that crimp/shrink/solder connectors truly work the best. All in one. Won't corrode or give you voltage drops and is fully waterproof.
My $.02
[ March 11, 2003, 08:49 PM: Message edited by: locogringo ]

[Havasu Hangin']

Cograts, DD. Now you can add "Professional Installer" to your resume....just make sure it doesn't fall down after you hit the first wake.
At least you don't have a far drive for warranty work...

[Froggystyle]

Congrats!!! Always nice to learn a new skill.

[DickDanger]

HH, I learned that reinforcement biz along time ago, and if that amp comes loose, the bow is going with it! -Dick "Had a stereo fall on his foot once" Danger Out