Cruiser Rudder ??

[VD CRUISER]

What type, style, depth rudder do you guys think would work the best on a 21' Howard capable of 100 + mph.

[Highlimit9000]

What type, style, depth rudder do you guys think would work the best on a 21' Howard capable of 100 + mph.
Look into a Spencer. I know they do good on the Schiada's. Thats what I will be running...

[VD CRUISER]

Thanks guys, I am running a rudder I got from Bergeron now, but I bent it last summer, and I was wondering about the Spencer rudder, if it would be as good or better. Is Spencer the name of someone that makes it?

[Highlimit9000]

Thanks guys, I am running a rudder I got from Bergeron now, but I bent it last summer, and I was wondering about the Spencer rudder, if it would be as good or better. Is Spencer the name of someone that makes it?
Call Prime Marine and ask Mike Ramirez. 909-484-8338

[Rexone]

Thanks guys, I am running a rudder I got from Bergeron now, but I bent it last summer, and I was wondering about the Spencer rudder, if it would be as good or better. Is Spencer the name of someone that makes it?
Spencer is named after Paul Spencer (former ski racer), a particular blade shape that Mike King designed while working for Spencer Racing in the 90's. The blade shape works well on Schiadas.

[VD CRUISER]

Thanks Mike, Do you think it would work well on my Howard? We Don't ski race of course, and don't try to make turns at or near top speed. I do like to turn at maybe 65 or 70 and run flat out straight ahead.

[Little Wood Boat]

IMO, for a 21'. Buy a "wedge" shaped rudder. Classic design from the 60's, still around because they work. Has to due with "pressure" and "drag." Around 11-1/2" blade, something bigger than 1/2" thick is better, more like 5/8". The bottom's leading edge shoud be centered underneath the shaft. Go longer, around 14", if it'll work with the trailer's prop guard. The extra length makes for a better turning boat, no performance loss on the big end, if you were thinking that.
At that speed, safety is a primary concern, even if it's just short blasts down the water, make sure you spend the money on a 1-1/8" shaft. Hold a 1" and a 1-1/8" up for a side-by side comparision. Even though the shaft is not normally what breaks, there's still a reason why they're made in 1-1/8". Upgrade the "cheaper" parts; tiller arm, safety collars, stuffing box, bearing/bushing supports, teflon washers if needed.
Go with steel if you think you need to save a couple of $$'s. No chrome. They just need more attention if you want to keep them pretty. Stainless is good for looks and no maintenance. There's a difference as to what these can be treated to after welding, other guys around here would know the difference. 17-4 ? Find this info out and act interested when you talk to the builder, it'll go along way into your understanding of just who's in charge of your life at 100mph. Your builder better know this info.
Custom made rudders may take up to 4 weeks to produce. Based on blade blanks, which welder the shop wants building it, heat treating (usually a totally different company), polishing and scheduling, (what the shop really does to make a living). 'Cause it ain't in building rudders.
Look into your fin, too. 11" long and 6" deep, not too bad. The 9" x 4" doesn't keep you straight or work well to turn against.
Measure shaft length and try to keep 1/8" gap from top of rudder to bottom of keel. Some times less clearence at continued high speeds can cause cav. burn. Not too good on the hull if you don't have a crash plate. Also time to check steering geometry inside to boat, might be time to make other adjustments. I've seen a mix of things; full lock left = 2.5 turns, full lock right = 3.5 turns. Swivels are junk, bind up.
Barber Welding, Bell Gardens, CA. Used to do Schiada's rudders. Had a falling out awhile back over paying bills. Maybe things have changed recently. Doug Barber will talk to you personally and build one to your spec. No deposit w/ me, but expect to pay w/ c.c. or cash. Some boaters are flakes. Doug did a SS last summer for me for $750.
Last note: Take your time, budget for a little more $$. Do it right or pay someone to do it right. The confidence and reliability of your underwater hardware is essential. Good Luck, LWB

[Rexone]

Thanks Mike, Do you think it would work well on my Howard? We Don't ski race of course, and don't try to make turns at or near top speed. I do like to turn at maybe 65 or 70 and run flat out straight ahead.
Yes I think it would be the best rudder for that boat based on the turning and control characteristics I've seen with various rudder designs on Schiadas. We had one built for a Howard 21 a couple years ago and the guy seemed very happy with the outcome. Just give a call or PM if you need assistance. :)

[Marty Gras]

Get a "true SK" chromolly rudder from Barber Welding. 12" NO SHORTER, and talk to "KEL" because Doug is always busy. You want the rudder to be the 'tail on the kite' and it needs to make a 'little' drag to be effective. They grind the metal into a 'true wedge' and then heat treat as needed. Never had a problem with any one of them, ever.