Water pressure regulator

[El Prosecutor]

A friend on another board sent me a link to McMaster-Carr to look for a water pressure regulator. What do you guys think of this setup:
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/3252Regulator.gif
3823T41
Brass Miniature Pressure Regulator 3/4" Garden Hose Thread with Gauge, 10-60 PSI
In stock at $50.33 Each
Seems like a bargain for having a guage and everything. My only concern is that it looks like the hose fittings reduce down pretty small to attach to the regulator - I wonder if you would get enough volume of water through there to keep the temps down?

[RCB19]

You are right. That thing won't flow enough water just by looking at it.
Had very good results with this one from Grainger.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1612840040&ccitem=

[berk]

i thought the press regulator was for preventing block overpressure not temp control?

[HBjet]

i thought the press regulator was for preventing block overpressure not temp control?
Correct.... you adjust temp control by the water exit flow. The more you let the water flow, the cooler the motor, the less you let the water flow, the warmer.
HBjet

[berk]

oh ok, i just run a t-stat in mine, works great with no valves.

[78Southwind]

You are right. That thing won't flow enough water just by looking at it.
Had very good results with this one from Grainger.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1612840040&ccitem=
Looks similar to the one I run. I bought mine from Home Depot for under $40. You want to get the 1” to flow enough water.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1676Wilkins_WaterPressure_BR4Regulator.JPG

[Keyser]

Looks similar to the one I run. I bought mine from Home Depot for under $40. You want to get the 1” to flow enough water.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1676Wilkins_WaterPressure_BR4Regulator.JPG
I have the same type but I haven't put it onyet because I think it might be to heavy having way out there. I know some guys made some trick brackets for their regs, how is yours mounted???

[GunninGopher]

oh ok, i just run a t-stat in mine, works great with no valves.
Thermostat's don't control pressure, do they?
If anything, I'd expect it to increase it.

[sanger rat]

You want a bypass not a regulator.

[RCB19]

You want a bypass not a regulator.
Reg or Bypass both work but why not put that water through the pump instead of overboard? :idea: For thoes looking here's how I mounted mine...
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/521/2984HPIM0299.JPG

[sleekcrafter]

what ever you decide to use, make sure you can disassemble it for cleaning, they don't like debris, and may stick open or closed.
Sleek

[MBlaster]

I'm a nOOB at this stuff but instead of a regulator or guage why not just use a manual valve and use your temp guage to determine how much water to flow? You would also have a shut off in the event of a emergency.

[El Prosecutor]

I started this thread about the regulator b/c of some milky oil in the valve covers
and concerns about gaskets leaking, etc. Guess I jumped the gun.
Here is an inexpensive way to see if you really need a regulator / bypass valve:
$10 at Home Depot, Watts Model IWTG (guage only - not including gate valve).
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/3252Inlet_Guage_Valve2.jpg
Resettable red needle shows max pressure reached during test period.
With the gate valve and logs I never got over @ 17-18 PSI, I think the
milky oil was just condensation from running too cool.

[revndave]

I did a similiar test with house pressure of 50lbs going in block and 2 overboard dumps out of block.Did not build any pressure in block.As long as you have no restrictions on water coming out you shouldn't build pressure in block.I run my water off jet through oil cooler then block and out lightning headers.No regulator.

[Konabud]

I started this thread about the regulator b/c of some milky oil in the valve covers
and concerns about gaskets leaking, etc. Guess I jumped the gun.
Here is an inexpensive way to see if you really need a regulator / bypass valve:
$10 at Home Depot, Watts Model IWTG (guage only - not including gate valve).
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/3252Inlet_Guage_Valve2.jpg
Resettable red needle shows max pressure reached during test period.
With the gate valve and logs I never got over @ 17-18 PSI, I think the
milky oil was just condensation from running too cool.
What were the conditions of your test (just curious) any WOT runs? I was under the impression that the pump can build lots of pressure at this time (WOT) and thats where the concern was. I'm putting in a bypass system today, like I said just curious. :smile:

[1978 Rogers]

I did a similiar test with house pressure of 50lbs going in block and 2 overboard dumps out of block.Did not build any pressure in block.As long as you have no restrictions on water coming out you shouldn't build pressure in block.I run my water off jet through oil cooler then block and out lightning headers.No regulator.
I feel the same way, but what do I know. I deal with water pressure all the time designing commercial irrigation systems. With one line into the block and 2 coming out of the block, there should be less restriction coming out of the engine. If you had one hose leaving the block with a smaller diameter, you'd get restriction and build pressure in the engine.
In theory to check the DYNAMIC pressure, put a gauge on the line from the pump and a gauge going to the exhaust/dump. You won't get the same readying at the 2 locations. The exhaust side of the cooling water will be less than what is feeding the engine.

[El Prosecutor]

This was a lake test, about 1/2 hour cruising, some short (< 1 minute) WOT runs.
(I have a 455 and no puke tank - recently discovered that extended WOT
runs will pump lots of oil out the breather, but y'all have read enough about
Olds oiling return problems elsewhere).

[Konabud]

I feel the same way, but what do I know. I deal with water pressure all the time designing commercial irrigation systems. With one line into the block and 2 coming out of the block, there should be less restriction coming out of the engine. If you had one hose leaving the block with a smaller diameter, you'd get restriction and build pressure in the engine.
In theory to check the DYNAMIC pressure, put a gauge on the line from the pump and a gauge going to the exhaust/dump. You won't get the same readying at the 2 locations. The exhaust side of the cooling water will be less than what is feeding the engine.
I would think that would depend on the pressure coming from the pump. The block would free flow up to its restrictive point and build pressure from there. ( if water is peeing out of the pump or shooting 50 ft). on an irrigation system the input is constant.

[1978 Rogers]

very true. The 1/2 gate valve cracked a 1/4 way open and 2 dump lines at 1/2". I think you have to run a while at wot to build up pressure. If you always run at WOT.

[wet77]

I am using the HTP valve on my boat and it seemed to work great. :cool: