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beached 1
10-27-2003, 07:40 AM
Which block is it that has the thin cyl walls? I can't remember.
D1VE?
If so, what is the casting number of the blocks with the thicker walls? And how much can they be bored out to?
Lastly, did Ford ever produce a cast iron 4 bolt main block for the 429/460?

Blown 472
10-27-2003, 08:10 AM
I have heard the blocks after 76 get thin, any block you are going to bore really big should get sonic tested but the early ones will go .100 easliy from what I have read. The only factory four bolt main blocks are the super cobra jets with the screw in core plugs. I have also read those blocks are weak in the webbing. A two bolt block will take a ton of hp.

058
10-27-2003, 09:13 AM
Your D1 block is a good one. Still wouldn't be a bad idea to have it sonic checked to see how far it will bore. Some of the early blocks will go .160" over to a finished bore of 4.520" sonic checking is a must for this big of a bore. Some CJ and all SCJ blocks were 4 bolt main and heard rumors there is a truck block that was 4 bolted but I've never seen one. Then there is the A-460 block from SVO that has all the good features like priority main oiling, heavier main bulkheads, thicker decks and are cast in high nickle iron.

LakesOnly
10-27-2003, 06:23 PM
Beached1,
The D9TE block is a lighter, late model block that may not overbore very far...certainly not as far as the earlier blocks (C8VE, C9VE, D0VE aned D1VE). The earlier blocks are significantly beefier and the way to go in almose every perfomance circumstance.
Also, several performance manufacturers make 4-bolt cap kits for the BBF.
LO

SPECTRABRENT
10-27-2003, 07:20 PM
Garrit,
What are you up to with that BBF?
Are you going to a 514?
Brent

beached 1
10-28-2003, 07:48 AM
Originally posted by Blown 472
A two bolt block will take a ton of hp.
How much HP would you estimate?

beached 1
10-28-2003, 07:57 AM
Originally posted by SPECTRABRENT
Garrit,
What are you up to with that BBF?
Are you going to a 514?
Brent
514 at the least. Now that I have a good-solid running 466 in the boat, I can take my time (and money) and build a monster. I have a spare D1VE block that is only .30 over and I wondered how far I could go with it. My fear is that it might be one of the "thin walled" blocks that really can't be bored much at all. I am hoping to get a few good seasons out of my 466 and if or when it gives, I'll have a 514+ sitting on stand by.
Thanks for all the answers guys. Much appreciated.
:)

Blown 472
10-28-2003, 09:11 AM
Originally posted by beached 1
How much HP would you estimate?
I believe the truck pull guys are getting 7 to 800 hp out of them, you should get ahold of "Engine systems" down in GA. Smart guys

058
10-28-2003, 09:27 AM
Almost all D1 blocks will take the .080" overbore to make a 514, the only exception would be a severly core shifted block. Thats why I recommended having it sonic checked. As for the 2 bolt main I would suggest studing the mains and that should be sufficent for just about any naturally asperated engine with stock type heads running under 7K rpm. If you plan on running heads like the A-460s or that type then a gurdle/main cap web or 4 bolt caps would be a good idea.

Blown 472
10-28-2003, 09:31 AM
True dat, I get alot of cap walk in my blown deal that is not putting out a bunch of power. Make sure you modify the mains to get full flow to the back two bearings, double check the front top main to make sure it is not covering the hole that feeds the dist gear as this will wear really fast, dont cross drill the crank and use a good pump, I have a stock cj iron pump in mine and it works fine. Also check the passage from the pump to the front of the block to make sure the galley plug is not covering up most of the hole.

beached 1
10-28-2003, 09:57 AM
If I could get 650 to 700 HP without revving over 6k I thnk I would be happy. 650 at 5500 would be perfect.
Thanks guys

SPECTRABRENT
10-28-2003, 11:01 AM
Have you looked into the Ford MOtorsports (SVO) 514 short block. Ford claims 600 HP.
Like I said, when you bought the Spectra, dropping a 500+ incher
is what that hull needs.
Brent

OkieDave
10-28-2003, 12:34 PM
I highly reccomend the 4.5 inch stroker kit. It is .080 over bore and makes a 565 inch motor. I put one together this year with a mild hyd flat tappet cam and dove heads. It has a lot of compression but runs fine on a 50-50 AV gas and 87 octane mix. It turns a Aggressor double A impellor 5300-5400 rpm and idles well, starts easy. In a light weight gull-wing style 18ft boat, it hauls a little over 90mph.

Infomaniac
10-28-2003, 12:46 PM
Originally posted by okiedave
I highly reccomend the 4.5 inch stroker kit. It is .080 over bore and makes a 565 inch motor. I put one together this year with a mild hyd flat tappet cam and dove heads. It has a lot of compression but runs fine on a 50-50 AV gas and 87 octane mix. It turns a Aggressor double A impellor 5300-5400 rpm and idles well, starts easy. In a light weight gull-wing style 18ft boat, it hauls a little over 90mph.
Dave - you forgot to mention single carb. :p
Did you see this video from the other Thurs night?
http://members.cox.net/crazyokie/FlyBy's.mpg

OkieDave
10-28-2003, 12:52 PM
yes Ron, I saw that one and several other cool vids you posted. we have had several more good thursday nites at Keystone but not many peeps still coming out. This week looks good too.

Infomaniac
10-28-2003, 12:54 PM
Originally posted by okiedave
yes Ron, I saw that one and several other cool vids you posted. we have had several more good thursday nites at Keystone but not many peeps still coming out. This week looks good too.
We were considering it but it is dark about 6:15 now. I guess just have to get there early.

LakesOnly
10-28-2003, 01:31 PM
4.500 stroke and a 4.44 (.080 over) is a 557 cubic inch engine.
I'm building a 4.300 x 4.44, and it will make a 533.
The early 2-bolt blocks I mentioned above can handle 750 HP and even more if prepped considerably. I know of a guy who just finised a 557 using a D1VE block that is dynoing 950HP.
Anything above 550 HP and you are going to experience cap walking unless you stud the crank and get a girdle.
My current 466 has just studs and it's at about 580 HP....and that's pushing it (cap-walking-wise).
LO

058
10-28-2003, 04:29 PM
I must have been lucky, I have never had any evidence of cap walk with my 2 bolt block/ twin turbo delio. I did keep the boost down to about 10-11 lbs and for short bursts to 6700-6800 rpm if that makes a difference.

beached 1
10-28-2003, 05:07 PM
Originally posted by SPECTRABRENT
Have you looked into the Ford MOtorsports (SVO) 514 short block. Ford claims 600 HP.
Like I said, when you bought the Spectra, dropping a 500+ incher
is what that hull needs.
Brent
Yes I have, but it appears that I have a decent block already. I also happen to have a good friend who owns a machine shop, so I think I can save a few$$ and make a decent 500 incher on my own.
Actually it runs pretty damn hard with the 466, but you have a point. I'm am currently spinning a MPD prepped SS A/B with a flowed bowl @ 5300/5400 right now. Would like to be able to do the same with a SS A or even a AA. A taller impeller would really help keep a heavy boat like my Spectra20 up on top of the water IMO.
Planning on adding a droop, ride plate and shoe combo this winter. Having the hook taken out also.
Thanks again fo the info guys.

OkieDave
10-29-2003, 06:17 AM
Maybe I've been lucky too. I have run 521 c.i. Fords (4.47x4.15) for years with tunnel ram, two carbs, two nitrous plates(250 hp each) CJ heads, roller cam, 13 to one compression and not had any bottom end problems. The Ford has nice big main bolts and head bolts not like the weak ass chevy deals that require studding and girdle reinforcement.

Jim Hall
10-29-2003, 02:04 PM
Since you all are on the topic of Ford's I have a couple of question's regarding my 460. One is I have been looking at roller rockers on E-Bay to buy and was wondering if the brands they are offering are ok(cat,maddog etc). No.two is, is there really a noticable difference in performance with the addition of roller rockers?

OMEGA_BUBBLE_JET
10-29-2003, 02:38 PM
Originally posted by Jim Hall
Since you all are on the topic of Ford's I have a couple of question's regarding my 460. One is I have been looking at roller rockers on E-Bay to buy and was wondering if the brands they are offering are ok(cat,maddog etc). No.two is, is there really a noticable difference in performance with the addition of roller rockers?
Jim,
You do know that D3VE heads are not set up for stud mounted rockers and would require modification to run roller rockers right? If you have D0VE heads or cobra jet heads you should be okay. You may already know this but in case you didn't I'd hate to see you spend alot of money for something you may not be able to use.
Omega

058
10-29-2003, 03:21 PM
On the topic of rocker arms....you get what ya pay for. Almost all the budget rockers are usually some form of casting, ie: investment cast, die cast ect and small trunnions Whereas the premium rockers are machined from billet aluminum and have larger trunnions. The budget rockers are ok for stock or near stock valve spring pressure but when they are used for high spring pressure they usually fail by breaking or wearing out prematurally.

LakesOnly
10-29-2003, 08:29 PM
Originally posted by 058
I must have been lucky, I have never had any evidence of cap walk with my 2 bolt block/ twin turbo delio. I did keep the boost down to about 10-11 lbs and for short bursts to 6700-6800 rpm if that makes a difference.
058: Are you doing all this with stock OEM crank bolts??? That's what I'm talking about.
My knowledge of this comes not from my own teardown inspections, but from a marine guy, Eric, on the east coast who studied this over and over with dyno pulls and saw it repeatedly with any 460 build over 550 HP that used stock crank bolts.
LO

058
10-29-2003, 08:48 PM
Lakes, I've always used ARP main and head studs on all my marine engines. Bolts are fine for the average street cruiser or even mild hi-perf duty in a car but marine engines are a different story. I even use main and head studs and ARP rod bolts on the stock 390 in my Lavey-Craft.

beached 1
11-04-2003, 08:07 PM
Just got my Ford racing catalog.
part# 6010-A460 cast iron 4 bolt main 460 siamese bore. Can be bored and stroked to 598CID. Yeah now!
They also have a alum block that has 600CID capacity.
Seriously thinking of ditching my D1VE block and going with the cast iron 4 bolt block.
Hey Rat, want some cheese?
:)

LakesOnly
11-04-2003, 08:12 PM
Your D1VE can probably go to 572" (4.50" bore x 4.50" stroke), no clearancing required...
So...how much is the SVO block vs. a head and main stud and girdle kit for your D1VE block?
Unless you are shooting for 1000 Hp or over 572 cubes, what's the point of the SVO block? Your D1VE will suit you fine; spend the money elsewhere...
LO

beached 1
11-04-2003, 09:22 PM
I guess I do need to come back to earth. It may be a pipe dream for now, but maybe..
My Spectra is a very heavy boat and a jet no less. I do plan to spend my $$ elsewhere first, but I'd kill to get 800+ HP N/A.
598 just sounds soo cool.

77charger
11-05-2003, 08:53 PM
hey beached1 i sill have the block that went to those heads(you know the ones you gave me a case of beer for:) )Its sitting in my garage if you want it you need to have a broken main stud bolt removed it is a stock bore.
If anyone needs it in the so cal area i'll trade it for a case of sierra nevada beer i aint shipping it you pick up.PM me if you want it:D

waterloged
11-05-2003, 09:06 PM
Thanks guy's for all this info. I am also building a ford stroker for my flat bottom. I don't know how big yet, somewhere over 500 inches. Who has the best rotating stuff?

beached 1
11-05-2003, 10:05 PM
Originally posted by 77charger
hey beached1 i sill have the block that went to those heads(you know the ones you gave me a case of beer for:) )Its sitting in my garage if you want it you need to have a broken main stud bolt removed it is a stock bore.
If anyone needs it in the so cal area i'll trade it for a case of sierra nevada beer i aint shipping it you pick up.PM me if you want it:D
SOLD Robert! Another case of Sierras OK?

LakesOnly
11-06-2003, 08:34 AM
Originally posted by waterloged
Thanks guy's for all this info. I am also building a ford stroker for my flat bottom. I don't know how big yet, somewhere over 500 inches. Who has the best rotating stuff?
There is nothing wrong with grinding your 460 crank off-center so as to make a 514. I've never heard of one of these american-made crankshafts failing.
SCAT and Eagle also offer stroker cranks and compete stroker kits. If youve got a Platinum Card, get the somponents from CROWER.
LO

Blown 472
11-06-2003, 08:43 AM
I saw last night eagle has a stroker crank for 209 jobber, not balanced though. Not to sure of the quality.
I love crower stuff, I have had a set of their roller rockers on my boat for 7 years now with zero problems.

OkieDave
11-06-2003, 09:01 AM
I bought a 4.5 stroke by .080 over kit that included crank, rods, pistons with pins, rings and bearings from mustang depot for $1500. Coast high Perf has the same kit but is more money. Flatlander racing has kits too. I am contemplating which one to buy for my next new boat. The one from mustang depot is working very nicely.

77charger
11-06-2003, 03:30 PM
Originally posted by beached 1
SOLD Robert! Another case of Sierras OK? You got it just pick up.You never know when you might need another block you just need to get the broken bolt out i would atempt but then i would just **** it up and make the block an anchor(leave this for the pros)Stock bore and is a d1ve block

waterloged
11-06-2003, 06:05 PM
Thanks lake. I will give you more info when i start buying things.