Black Gold Texas T!

[sidewound]

Yea that's right. IN MY MOTOR!
After my engine build I put an hr on the motor and changed the oil. I cut the filter and everything was dandy. the oil looked brand new.
When I winterized I changed it out again with maybe 7 hrs. on the mill. It was BLACK!!!!!
I didn't like the looks of it.
Can anyone tell me what might be the culprit?
I've been told it could be from running fat (which I think it was) or from running too cold(which I think it was).
Anybody got any other ideas? Thanks folks!
Peace Man!:cool:
CESAR

[460rogers]

What type and weight are you using?

[sidewound]

Hey 460'
I was running a straight 50 after the first hour. Valvoline racing oil.
Whatchathink?
Peace Man!:cool:
CESAR

[Jet City]

I don't know that I would be too excited just yet, the rings where still seating during that time and the oil is doing its job (suspending the ugly stuff). If you are concearned, I'd recomend getting a UOA (used oil analysis) done, they can tell you exactly what going on with wear-metals, excessive fuel in the oil, etc. Why wonder or guess.

[sidewound]

Thanks JCR!
I've got a sample but was kinda wondering if anyone had the same type of experience.
I'll take the sample in. I just didn't like the looks of it.
Your reply was somewhat reassurring. My thoughts also.
Just sceered of all that bling bling being compromised.
Peace Man!:cool:
CESAR
NEXT YEAR'S GOTTA BE BETTER!

[victorfb]

i would think that the blackness is normal under the conditions your talking. as mentioned allready, the rings are still seating, and of course by what you say it still needs to be tuned. fix the air /fuel ratio, water temp, and everything else first before trying to fugure out whats going on inside. the oil sample is a great siggestion. i have never done that but hear its a great way to tell whats going on.
can anyone tell me how much oil they need for a sample test? and does anyone know were to go and get this done? i am in north county san diego, just south of temecula calif.

[sidewound]

victorfb
The jar I got is maybe a half pint. A local oil wholesaler here will send it off for me here. Don't know the destination but will hopefully find out and maybe eliminate the wholesaler in the future. Hell it's probably goin to cali or somthin.
Thanks for your thoughts!
Peace Man!:cool:
CESAR

[Jet City]

No problem Cesar, as for where to send the UOA's, Terry Dyson and Blackstone labs are both listed in the links on below site, they can also provide "speciman" bottles. You guys might also find the forum's interesting too.
www.bobistheoilguy.com

[sidewound]

Thanks Bro!
The link is dachit! I found some good stuff already. A perfect addition to my "favorites". Thanks again!
Peace Man!:cool:
CESAR

[Jet Hydro]

Black oil is the result of a rich fuel mixture. Can be caused by Cold running temp, Wrong jet`s, wrong timing,
or just because the ring`s haven't seated yet. My guess would be all of the above. Don't get to excited.
If you do an oil analysis, it`s best to take the first drop of oil that comes out of the pan because the metals go to the bottom and they are the first thing to come out when you drain your oil.

[460rogers]

I usually don't break in a motor with 50 but I have never tried Valvoline racing yet either.JET-HYDRO was thinking the same thing I was just faster.until the rings are seated properly you will usually have some blowby(fuel mix slipping past rings)this shouldn't last long if you get some heat in your motor.Richness does lead to dark oil.But better rich than lean.Let us know what you get from the lab.I wish I was cool.

[sidewound]

Hey 460,
I did the qriginal cam break in with 10-30, changed it out with 10-30 for another hour then changed over to the 50.
My worry about oil pressure issues with the 455 prompted the 50wt.
I think next year I will try the multigrade.
Thanks for your thoughts.
" I DUB THEE COOL" he he he
Peace Man!:cool:
CESAR

[Jet City]

I think you have the right idea, the monograde is a way tougher oil in terms of staying in grade in the high heat these jetboat engines generate (all those VI improvers in the multi's come at a price). As a result of less thinning, SAE 40 maintains better pressure on an extended hard run than XXw40 will (even 20w50), your oil pressure gage will tell the story. By the same token, I'd see what the difference is between SAE 40 and SAE 50, I'd bet SAE 40 will do the job. I'd also have to say loosing the cold starting benifits of the multi in a boat is no biggie if your like me and only use the boat if the temp is 70+ degrees.