Can my berk "E" pump be cut for a droop and wedge

[Doug H.]

i thought iv'e seen or heard of this but am looking for someone to cut and install a droop and wedge into my "E" pump.
would this benefit me in a 21' openbow jet.
and at what price ?
i want big rooster tails. :D

[Moomawnster]

The J/E pump will accept a split bowl with no problem , The droop may or may not help but get a diverter first , THE single best improvement for a jet .........
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/139MVC-019S-med.JPG

[Duane HTP]

Here's the bowl you need to do it.
http://www.hi-techperformance.com/Usedparts.HTM
And most E-Series pumps work better with a SNOOT than they do with a droop. Duane

[Doug H.]

Moomawnster, did someone cut that for you ? and who did it.
i do have a hyd place.div.

[Moomawnster]

Oh I get it now , you want to have your A bowl machined ..... I would recommend the used split bowl Duane is offering . Unless you know a fine machinist who is familiar with jet building It will be a disaster. I did this work myself , it is not too hard .
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/139Parts.jpg

[pops1]

YOUR BOAT LOOKS LIKE A ULTRA 20.5 OPEN BOW WITH A "E " PUMP
FYI-THAT WAS ONE OF OUR FIRST TEST BOATS-RAN 51.3 mph REBUILT PUMP, NEW BERK IMP. OUR FIRST TEST (RADAR)BAD INSERT DELTA PAD INSET 3/4" UP ON THE BOAT. CARTER REED BUIT IT WHEN HE WAS WITH ULTRA.
ADDED 1 X 1 -NEW AGG "A"- 9 VANE, AND FILLED HOOKS IN THE BOTTOM- STOCK 454 MARINE POWER, RAN 64.7 WE DID PUT A DIVERTER ON IT AFTER AND RAN 65.6 (3.125 CHOKE) A DROOP(STD 7.5 UP DEGREES) 66.8 MPH- THAT WAS ALL THE TESTING WE GOT DONE ON IT WHEN THE MOTOR HOME IN STORAGE NEXT TO THE BOAT HAD A FIRE. WHEN THE FIRE DEPARTMENT GOT THERE BULLET'S IN THE MOTOR HOME STARTED TO GO OFF AND THEY ALL HEADED FOR A BLOCK WALL TO DUCK BEHIND- BOAT & MOTOR HOME BURNT TO THE GROUND. DAVE

[REGISTERED USER]

Someone should mention that if you do that bowl conversion you will also need to redo your steering and reverse cable setup at the pump. You will no longer be able to use the configuration that is on there.
The overall limiting factor in an "E" pump is the intake design. Changing the bowl would not change that. I believe that a droop would not be as effective on a boat that large, compared to smaller, lighter hulls.
A more cost effective move would be to upgrade to a Place Diverter designed for the E pump bowl you have now, IMO

[Duane HTP]

Someone should mention that if you do that bowl conversion you will also need to redo your steering and reverse cable setup at the pump. You will no longer be able to use the configuration that is on there.
You can change the bowl and put a Berkeley or Aggressor nozzle housing on it, and the same parts will still work. I've done it many times. If you add a droop or a snoot, you will have to lengthen the steering a bit. Duane HTP

[1tricky1]

Originally posted by REGISTERED USER
[B]Someone should mention that if you do that bowl conversion you will also need to redo your steering and reverse cable setup at the pump. You will no longer be able to use the configuration that is on there.
I agree with Duane - BAD INFO dude! Enough rope smokin for you...:D
Here's my "e" pump converted to a split bowl with a Place Diverter, it's easily done.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/504/947newpumprt1-med.jpg

[Doug H.]

Thank you guys for all your help, pops1 you nailed my boat speed on the head and thanks for the info.

[REGISTERED USER]

OK, I stand corrected, however, isn't that some non standard special combination of parts on that Place?
Looks like half e pump stuff and half g pump stuff. At least it doesn't look like the e pump Place that I have seen. I've seen 3 other split bowl conversions and they all had the steering converted to normal berk c/g pump style.
Not going to argue with you Duane, I know you know your stuff, but I would like to know how you could do that with a stock berk nozzle and a g bowl? Just put the stock e nozzle onto a g extension piece? And also, could it be done with a F pump nozzle too?
tricky.........
Place claims the flat part on the bottom of the nozzle is supposed to be like a "ride plate" (they claim). How well does that work with the steering linkage hanging down into the water like that? Or is that just the way it looks in the pic? Looks to be a couple inches below the bottom of the nozzle.
Thanks, and sorry for the bad info.

[Moomawnster]

I was just about to say that Tricky1s rig is set up EXACTLY like mine , Well , MUCH cleaner but ..... I did not have to do any modifications to the linkage , this will differ by boat model of course but no need to be intimidated by this change ......
Moo ........

[Duke]

around how much would a used PD for the E bowl, and the G bowl cost?
you could P.M me the numbers if you'd like
I have a stock E Pump on my boat and I'd like to know where I should start.
my hull is a copy of the rogers 18' and I have a stock 454 in it

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

Originally posted by 1tricky1
I agree with Duane - BAD INFO dude! Enough rope smokin for you...:D
Here's my "e" pump converted to a split bowl with a Place Diverter, it's easily done.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/504/947newpumprt1-med.jpg
What kind of hull is this? Everything here looks identical to mine! My hull is a kona.
396

[Duane HTP]

I would like to know how you could do that with a stock berk nozzle and a g bowl? Just put the stock e nozzle onto a g extension piece? And also, could it be done with a F pump nozzle too?
Yes, they all fit the same size opening . either in the one piece bowl or the nozzle housing that bolts on to the G bowl.
These boats set up like this need the E-Shoe and ride plate system to keep the linkage and hardware from dragging.

[mgar_red]

I added a used F nozzle w/ gimble to my E bowl ( filled the flat spot ), and was a surprised to see my gps speed didn't go up at all. Running a stock 460 in a Taylor SJ. Was wondering if since the boat was setup without any trim that the ride plate was adjusted from the factory to accommodate? Or is that not the case? If so, would I need to adjust the plate up to gain full advantage of the F nozzle? Wanted to ask before doing something wrong. Thanks.

[Moomawnster]

You can't really do anything "wrong " just measure where it is set now before you make any changes , and don't be suprised when you spend $$$$ and don't go faster ! :D

[1tricky1]

Originally posted by REGISTERED USER
OK, I stand corrected, however, isn't that some non standard special combination of parts on that Place?
Looks like half e pump stuff and half g pump stuff. At least it doesn't look like the e pump Place that I have seen. I've seen 3 other split bowl conversions and they all had the steering converted to normal berk c/g pump style.
Not going to argue with you Duane, I know you know your stuff, but I would like to know how you could do that with a stock berk nozzle and a g bowl? Just put the stock e nozzle onto a g extension piece? And also, could it be done with a F pump nozzle too?
tricky.........
Place claims the flat part on the bottom of the nozzle is supposed to be like a "ride plate" (they claim). How well does that work with the steering linkage hanging down into the water like that? Or is that just the way it looks in the pic? Looks to be a couple inches below the bottom of the nozzle.
Thanks, and sorry for the bad info.
Hey User, no sweat dude, we're all in here to learn about our passion.
That is all standard parts on my Place except for the steering extension and the swivel piece attached to it which I got thru Rex Marine. The next piece is an "E" steering tiller I purchased from CP Performance. That piece is what drove me a little nuts cuz I didn't have it with my old "F" style equipment. Apparently that piece is factory "E" equipment but mine was an "F" with the jetovator and it had different steering tiller.
That flat part on the nozzle could act like a ride plate if it was low enough in the water but mine is not that low.
With a straight edge coming off the bottom of the ride plate there is still about an inch and half of clearance to the lowest part of my steering linkage. I'm not sure if it's dragging? Probably at take off but I've never been able to get a view at speed.
After my conversion the nozzle ended up about 8-10 inches further back than the stock due to the longer Aggressor bowl, nozzle housing (needed for all split bowls. or droop) and the Place nozzle is longer than stock. I will definitely being looking into the E shoe and longer ride plate that Duane has.
Hey Moom, thanks for complimant!
396, that's a 20' Sleekcraft tunnel hull. Has a really nice ride. Just dances across the top of the chop
:eek: