knock and roll

[Terrible Buddhist]

I have a 383 chevy I am putting a fuel injection system on...I decided to change the timing chain while I was in there...couple questions:
1) any tricks for getting the timing cover back on? I have almost all the bolts loose on the oil pan and its STILL being a PIA.
2) where do you located the knock sensor?

[Havasu Hangin']

Originally posted by Terrible Buddhist
any tricks for getting the timing cover back on? I have almost all the bolts loose on the oil pan and its STILL being a PIA.
What year is the block?

[Terrible Buddhist]

its not a newer one...maybe 70's?

[Havasu Hangin']

I just replaced mine a few weeks ago. The problem is where the thick rubber gasket on the cover transitions to the paper gasket- it has tabs that can get stuck on the pan.
The key is to remove all the old silicone where it mated with the pan. Then, I slipped the tabs into the slots (with wet silicone to lube it), and bolted the cover on...bottom bolts first.
It took me a couple tries, but I was able to do it without disturbing the pan.

[Infomaniac]

Sometimes you can trim the ends of the inner lip of the timing cover to allow you to insert it into the oil pan. Goop everything up good around the bottom seal like HH suggerted.

[Terrible Buddhist]

I have the fel pro gasket...there is no lip on it...I also assumed I put the gasket on the timing cover rather than on the pan...is this wrong?

[Havasu Hangin']

Originally posted by Terrible Buddhist
I have the fel pro gasket...there is no lip on it...I also assumed I put the gasket on the timing cover rather than on the pan...is this wrong?
Does your timing cover have a slot welded on the bottom?

[Terrible Buddhist]

define slot...if you mean does it have like a valley on the bottom that the gasket wedges into...yes.

[Havasu Hangin']

Originally posted by Terrible Buddhist
define slot...if you mean does it have like a valley on the bottom that the gasket wedges into...yes.
The rubber gasket that slides into that valley has a tab on each side (like little wings)- those "tabs" wedge in between the pan and the block- that's the pain.
I put the paper and rubber gaskets on the cover (held on with a little silicone), and slid it over the crank. Then, i wiggled the "tabs" into the slots between the pan and the block...then put the two lower bolts in fingertight.
Then work the rest of the bolts on.

[Terrible Buddhist]

any advice on the knock sensor?

[Havasu Hangin']

Originally posted by Terrible Buddhist
any advice on the knock sensor?
Don't ask me...I've lost my senses (don't use one).

[Foggerjet]

Your Block has 2 coolant drains 1 on each side of the block above the pan rails. These are 1/4" NPT, the same as most GM knock sensors. Just unscrew one of them, put a little RTV on the threads and screw your knock sensor in. The cars with TPI and TBI had them on the starter side, But I don't think it matters.
Fog

[HOSS]

Just saw this thread. The knock sensor should be mounted in one of the coolant drains as stated. Question though. Are you running a heat exchanger? If not then you may have to change the sensor periodically. With a jet (if not mistaken) won`t the sensor pick up the water noise from higher pressure?
For the timing cover gasket. My advice is to drop the pan. I vcan`t stand even seepage! Also while the cover is off check balancer to see if there is a groove forming from the seal. If so there is a sleeve uou can install over the balancer shaft.