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78Eliminator
12-29-2003, 10:02 AM
Is there any sort of chemical that I can use to remove several layers of paint down to the acutal dry wall? I want to start fresh because during my kitchen remodel I removed some cabinets and there is quite a trasition where the cabinets covered (where there was no paint behind them) and right next to them (where the kitchen has been painted at least five times). I tryed sanding but made very little progress, and I am also a little concerned that I will have high and low spots once I am finished......
Thanks for your help!

HOSS
12-29-2003, 10:04 AM
Yeah float it out.

HOSS
12-29-2003, 10:05 AM
Or put on a texture.

OCStoker
12-29-2003, 10:06 AM
Float the area bihind the cabinets with all pupose joint compound. Make sure you prep both surfaces so you will get a good bond.

78Eliminator
12-29-2003, 10:09 AM
Originally posted by HOSS
Yeah float it out.
Hoss, please elaborate....

superdave013
12-29-2003, 10:13 AM
I'm redoing my kitchen too. Never done this type of work before.
I was struggling until a friend who knew what's up came over and showed me the drywall / plaster tricks. Going much better now. Like they said, float it out with some joint compound. Put on thin layers with a wide trowl. Might have to hit the area 2 or 3 times.
Also get one of those sanding sponges. Will get it close with no dust.

78Eliminator
12-29-2003, 10:21 AM
Originally posted by superdave013
I'm redoing my kitchen too. Never done this type of work before.
I was struggling until a friend who knew what's up came over and showed me the drywall / plaster tricks. Going much better now. Like they said, float it out with some joint compound. Put on thin layers with a wide trowl. Might have to hit the area 2 or 3 times.
Also get one of those sanding sponges. Will get it close with no dust.
Are those sanding sponges used to shape the plaster before it cures?

HOSS
12-29-2003, 10:29 AM
NO

Schiada76
12-29-2003, 02:23 PM
Make sure the high spots on the edge of the paint are knocked down and start filling the low areas with the joint compound. Don't leave high ridges or you'll be sanding forever, plan on several layers, use a 10" knife. Get a sanding pole they are way easier than anything else. Let it cure completly or there's no way you'll be able to sand it. Use TOPPING for the final coat, if you got the surface right you can hit it with a tight coat of topping with almost no sanding at all. Wear a dust mask or you'll be blowing gypsum boogers for a couple of days.:D :D

Sherpa
12-29-2003, 02:55 PM
two words.
belt sander.
then float/fill the gap difference.
--Sherpa

78Eliminator
12-29-2003, 02:56 PM
I was kinda thinking that!!!! I am going to get one tonight. Thanks for saying that. Any good brands????

Cas
12-29-2003, 03:18 PM
belt sander + drywall = huge dust storm
Just use the edge of the drywall knife and shave it off as flat as you can.

Jordy
12-29-2003, 03:30 PM
The chemical is called a hammer and a wrecking bar... just knock it all out and start over... :D

al cole'holic
12-29-2003, 03:34 PM
..how much of a difference you talkin about?

fat rat
12-29-2003, 03:35 PM
If you can.......laminate over what you got with some 3/8" rock.

rrrr
12-29-2003, 03:50 PM
Belt sanders are OK if you go easy. I did something similar in one of my rent houses with big cracks in the walls. I used a belt sander with 80 grit paper on the paint only, kept it off of the exposed drywall paper surface. It saved a lot of prep work.
Using a 10 or 12 inch knife takes practice. Lay out a smooth coating of joint compound the width of the knife. Hold the knife tilted so the handle is just above the surface of the wall. Wipe it down a couple of times, cleaning the knife on the edge of the pan each time.
Next, position the knife so about 1/4 of it is on the surface to the side of your compound, push down and twist the blade a bit in that direction as you wipe. You are trying to taper the mud from the center to the edges. Another pass down the center is needed after you taper both sides. Oh, and the knife will have a natural bow in the edge, so sight down the blade and turn the knife so the bow helps your efforts.
The finished pass should be around 1/8" thick in the middle. Try to learn how to get by with as little mud as possible, then you won't be sanding off the excess.
Have fun, and watch the beer supply closely. :D

HOSS
12-29-2003, 04:20 PM
Belt sander and drywall equals more ****in` work. With a big ****in` mess. Vibrating sander (palm) equals a little more time but it`ll be done once. Get a sponge sander also as mentioned.

rrrr
12-29-2003, 05:52 PM
Originally posted by HOSS
Belt sander and drywall equals more ****in` work. With a big ****in` mess. Vibrating sander (palm) equals a little more time but it`ll be done once. Get a sponge sander also as mentioned.
LOL, now that you mention it I used a palm sander, not a belt sander. I have one of those little Makita monsters, does pretty good. ****ing old age memory, this was just back in January.
That 80 grit kinda green sandpaper works much better than the garnet (tan) type.

Stupid Fast
12-29-2003, 06:58 PM
Uh, 78, before you go grinding with a belt or palm sander, How old is your house? Have you checked the paint for lead? Scraping and cutting isnt that big of a deal but sanding makes the lead air born and that is not good.
I don't want to sound like an old bitty but you do need to watch what you do in older houses.
Eric

mike37
12-29-2003, 07:10 PM
Originally posted by BradP
Make sure the high spots on the edge of the paint are knocked down and start filling the low areas with the joint compound. Don't leave high ridges or you'll be sanding forever, plan on several layers, use a 10" knife. Get a sanding pole they are way easier than anything else. Let it cure completly or there's no way you'll be able to sand it. Use TOPPING for the final coat, if you got the surface right you can hit it with a tight coat of topping with almost no sanding at all. Wear a dust mask or you'll be blowing gypsum boogers for a couple of days.:D :D
This post is the most correct answer
you will also need to buy one of the aerosol texture cans to match your old texture around the floated out aria

Mandelon
12-29-2003, 07:15 PM
Skim the whole kitchen with the same texture, then prime and paint it so it is all uniform before you put the cabinets in.

HOSS
12-29-2003, 08:06 PM
Burn tha mutha ****a.

78Eliminator
12-29-2003, 09:49 PM
Originally posted by Cas
belt sander + drywall = huge dust storm
Just use the edge of the drywall knife and shave it off as flat as you can.
You know, I tried the belt sander tonight, but it kept loading up. So I ended up just taking a scraper and a heat gun. I got an entire wall down to the 1940s primer coat. Anyway, I am a real perfectionist and I want the areas that will be covered with cabinets just as perfect as what will be exposed.
After I get it all matched, I will start to repair the holes and cracks. I put in quite a few hours tonight. If I keep it up, I might actually have a kitchen in 2004. Heck, if I just get the walls done, that will be one hell of a milesone......
Thank you all for your advice and help!