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fullwood
01-16-2004, 02:07 PM
Radius bottom aluminum jetboat without step-tech with a forced inducted small block. any feedback would be appreciated!!

canuck1
01-16-2004, 02:47 PM
What degree hull are you thinkin,how long,etc.

fullwood
01-16-2004, 02:50 PM
16 degree deadrise 12 in radius!! AT intake setup for shoe and rideplate!

canuck1
01-16-2004, 03:14 PM
sounds just like Outlaws old sprint hulls. 550hp will get you 90+ what lenght are you thinking?

fullwood
01-16-2004, 03:16 PM
19'6'' it's kindof long but it's more of a pleasure boat! what do normal bare hulls weigh glass or aluminum?

LVjetboy
01-16-2004, 03:18 PM
Don't mind me, but what the h*ll are you tin can guys talking about?
:)
jer

Rexone
01-16-2004, 03:19 PM
I think they're plotting to outrun your glass and wood boat. :D

fullwood
01-16-2004, 03:21 PM
my buddies glass eliminator weighs 648 lbs. without a intake my hull with intake wieghed 555lbs. i wanted to know how this compared to other boat wieghts!! I think the old sprint hulls are all delta pad bottom aren't they??

canuck1
01-16-2004, 03:33 PM
The last Outlaw hull that Alex built was a radius bottom. It was 18' . With a small block & 309 my 16' weighs in at 1380 pounds wet, my 13' weighed in at under 1000.
tuperware hulls are just heavy and slow
Jer Rex has it right, we are comin to get you
wood and glass are for houses not boats

fullwood
01-16-2004, 03:35 PM
glass guys seem to be a little concerned with competition!

LVjetboy
01-16-2004, 03:36 PM
18' 6" PlaceCraft glass.
Estimated 800-850 lbs bare hull. 2050 lbs lake trim. Come and get me.
jer

canuck1
01-16-2004, 03:38 PM
Jer
is it you that has the jet calculator program?

LVjetboy
01-16-2004, 04:08 PM
Yes. I'll send you a link for the program if you like.
jer

canuck1
01-16-2004, 04:09 PM
Please

LVjetboy
01-16-2004, 04:28 PM
Here ya go...
JPC (http://members.cox.net/lvjetboy/JPC.zip)
Just download, unzip, and open/run setup.exe to install. After installing copy the executable C:\Program Files\Jet Performance Calculator\JPC.exe to a convenient location (desktop or taskbar) if you like. I run it from the taskbar.
This program works with xp and most likely 2000, 98 and nt. If you have problems just email me.
jer

Rexone
01-16-2004, 05:55 PM
I can see the headlines now.
LVJetBoy gets beat by Aluminum Bass Boat :D
(no offence Alum guys, just anticipated media spin) lol.

canuck1
01-16-2004, 05:58 PM
Bass boat? FU and cancel my order for your catalog:D

TRG
01-16-2004, 06:11 PM
now pardon my ignorance...but how do you guys run your boats up stream and over shallow rock bars,....and still manage to have some sort of pump left? is there some sort of guard or something?
I was out with cyclone and HBjet over labor day, when their pumps both went south...and we were in way deeper water than you guys run! todd

canuck1
01-16-2004, 06:21 PM
Todd
My boat has a 3/16 steel plate down the center and a rock grate. Small rocks generally don't do much damage as they go through the pump, it takes just a couple of minutes to sharpen the imp every so often. I can run in 6" of water at cruising speed and not touch or pull anything off the bottom

coolchange
01-16-2004, 06:29 PM
Saw the sprint race a snake river on speed vision this morning:eek: Anyone know what kind of lateral g's those those deals pull?

canuck1
01-16-2004, 06:29 PM
5 to 8 plus

LVjetboy
01-16-2004, 06:43 PM
"I can see the headlines now. LVJetBoy gets beat by Aluminum Bass Boat."
Not likely.
Grates keep big rocks out. So do loaders. SS impellers survive ingested cr*p better than alumimum. There's no magic between a Canadian river racer and state side lake racer. Just a matter of blocker or grate spacing, routine maintenance, impeller material and how much cr*p you ingest...depending on how you run.
Speed on the other hand? It's all a matter of power and drag.
jer

058
01-16-2004, 06:59 PM
Originally posted by canuck1
Bass boat? FU and cancel my order for your catalog:D Rexone has a catalog??????:D :D :D

CrdStang
01-17-2004, 02:17 AM
LVJetboy, nice lil program there, I've already wasted 20 minutes. Now I just need to get my damn boat in the water to get some drag point numbers.
I'll get off my ass and get the shortblock together this weekend. It's gonna be a while..

Unchained
01-17-2004, 06:02 AM
I'd buy an aluminum hull if someone made a 20' picklefork that looked as good as the Stealth.
How's the aluminum for holding paint?
How thick is the hull material?
Mark

Sleek-Jet
01-17-2004, 06:23 AM
Originally posted by Unchained
How's the aluminum for holding paint?
Mark
I've got an airplane that is 45 years old and has the original paint that still shows well (it's enamel, and has been stored inside all it's life), so I'd say that it holds up pretty well.
Ureathanes like Imron and Jet Glow/AcryGlow are the hot set up for airplanes, I'd think they would work well for boats.
But why not powder coat the entire boat? That would be cool.

quiet riot
01-17-2004, 06:46 AM
I had my boat powdercoated last year but the shop did a lousy job. It was too dirty and they were too inexperienced at laying down a multistage finish on such a big item. The only problem with powdercoating large items is having the big oven to fit the whole thing in and keeping it clean and not disturbing the powder when masking and putting it in the oven. The place I used did a few boats for some manufacturers in single stage white that came out descent, but that wasn't what I was going for. Its a shame cause the translucent blue over shiny alum gave a kick ass candy effect.
I just painted it with a good base/clear (after stripping all the damn powdercoat off) like I did when I made the boat originally. Auto paint holds up good as long as the prep is done right (etching or some of the new deoxidizer cleaners.)
Unchained, I love the videos of your ride! I will someday make a alum drag boat, its just that it took about 600hrs to make this one so I'm still not sure I'm ready just yet. As far as thickness, they can range from rolled sheet thats .060 to 3/16 thick. It all depends on the usage (a river runner rock pounder that might even have a steel keel to a pond fishing boat.) A lot depends on the engineering going into the hull. The better the bends (placement and more of them) the thinner the material can be and still have structural integrity. You can get into pre-stressing the alum to push against the forces applied to the boat and make a lot of improvements that way also. A lot goes into the jigs to set up a lightweight alum racer hull, much more than just bending some metal and welding it together.
jd

Sleek-Jet
01-17-2004, 07:00 AM
Did you alodine the hull before you had it painted???? Just curious.

quiet riot
01-17-2004, 08:12 AM
Did you alodine the hull before you had it painted???? Just curious.
Nope. Not this time. The first paint job I did on it was the standard ppg set up with etch then cure agent (alodine or something, I don't remember), primer, base, and clear.
This time I just used a deoxidizing cleaner and primed it within an hour. It seems to hold up pretty good. From what I've found, as long as you coat alum soon after cleaning/deoxidizing then it will keep a strong adhesion because the surface can't see O2 anymore. The powdercoaters still seem to be split on this though as they have to bake the metal to de-gas before coating, and even when the coating is sprayed, it can still see O2 until its baked and melts on in an uniform coating.
I'm gonna start experimenting with spraying transparent colors over polished or brushed alum surfaces to see if it will hold up without priming to get a candy effect like the powdercoating. I clear coated a polished stripe on the boat and it seems to be holding well. I used house of colors adhesion promoter under the clear, so far so good. The candy effect of transparents over a polished surface is just way too cool. Maybe I'll have to make a shop into an oven and just powder coat stuff myself.:wink:
jd