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View Full Version : Which rocker arms???



396_WAYS_TO_SPIT
02-12-2004, 07:32 PM
I am deciding on the comp stainless or the crane 'gold" race rockers. Which set is better? Why does crane offer a wide body rocker? What is the advantage of the 'wide" body rocker besides the wide price? Sorry for all the questions but I am ready to buy these parts tomorrow or saturday.
396

flat broke
02-12-2004, 07:34 PM
I run the comp stainless, and they have done well so far. They are more than strong enough for what you are doing, and allow a little more room for tools when/if adjusting lash.
Nothing wrong with the crane units either. Figgure it like this: they come stock on some of Mercruiser's power oferings, so they are probably pretty durable as well.
Chris

Infomaniac
02-12-2004, 07:35 PM
Comp pro magnum

LakesOnly
02-12-2004, 07:40 PM
I have the Crane Gold Series and they have not failed me.
I wish to try the Comp Stainless on my next build...Comp is a good company. Those rockers are undeniably stonger than the extruded aluminum ones, and are perfect for your build...
LO

cstraub
02-13-2004, 05:06 AM
Run a good aluminum rocker. Steel rockers amplify valvetrain harmonics whereas the aluminum will absorb the harmonics. This is more important then steel being stronger then aluminum. I would recommend the Crane/Crower/Comp or Angus rockers.
Chris

Craig
02-13-2004, 06:40 AM
I've run the same set of Crane Golds on my 454 and now the 509. No problems.

superdave013
02-13-2004, 07:20 AM
I run the comp cams rockers. They are the alum deal. Have HUGE trunions and that's the only part of a rocker that's ever failed on me. Plus they are re-buildable.
I tried to run some Harland Sharps (re-badged as Chet Herbert) with a big roller. lol that didn't work to well. Trunion parts ended up in the oil pump. :(

Hotcrusader76
02-13-2004, 08:40 AM
Crane Golds here as well.
I think I'm going to switch to the COMP's brand SS brand though.
If I remember correctly "Froggystyle" trashed a Crane Gold on his Merlin 509 with the "OTR" boat. You would have to get more info on that but nonetheless he told me it just about cracked itself up.
But remember he was running nearly .700"+ cam lift and I "was" only pushing .580"
~Ty

Jordy
02-13-2004, 08:48 AM
The biggest problem I've experienced with the Crane Gold Series is the think polylocks tend to fatigue and crack. Granted this is on the older style. I do believe they went to the bigger beefier style polys on the new models.
I'm planning on going with the Crowers in the near future and deep sixing the golds (if you're interested Mike).
:D

Hotcrusader76
02-13-2004, 09:17 AM
Jordan,
You're right. That poly locks are beefier this time around on the Golds.
But on the other hand the Crowers do rock! Those along with the steel Comp Cams versions should take some consistent abuse.
~Ty

UBFJ #454
02-13-2004, 09:29 AM
You might want to look at Jesels ... Pricey, but, The Best.

cstraub
02-13-2004, 09:56 AM
Hey, Bear has a point, the new Jesel sportsman series is pretty in expensive when you figure no stud, plates, or girdle.
Chris

SPECTRABRENT
02-13-2004, 08:00 PM
I just bought a set of Crane Gold roller rockers from Teague for $219.00 (Boat Show price). I think Teagues ***boat Ad is $239.00. I ran them in my 509 with no problems.
Brent

Infomaniac
02-13-2004, 09:37 PM
The Comp pro magnum will last forever and are rebuildable.
I run the Crane Gold with great success also.
If it is not a radical cam or RPM, the steel rockers are very good.
Aluminim will metal fatigue long before the steel.

Beautiful Noise
02-13-2004, 10:02 PM
I'm running the Isky Roller Tip Rockers:D

Blown 472
02-13-2004, 10:05 PM
Crowers here, check out Clay Smith's life time warrenty.

Tinkerer
02-14-2004, 09:02 PM
I have been told to stay away from the Jesel Sportsman rockers.

565edge
02-15-2004, 06:17 PM
I heard the jesels where having problems too.I went ahead and bought t&d machine products.I am very satisfied.The intakes have a 1 piece stand that goes accross the whole head.The exhaust has individual stands that bolt to the intake stand.Very strong.You do need to get the longer bolts for the exhaust side though.If not you will rip the bolt out of the head.These are by far the best investment i have made with my motor.It makes adjusting valves alot easier.I used to run the comp cam pro-magnum with no problems.I got the needle bearing roller tip and the extra oiling hole they offer.

565edge
02-15-2004, 10:31 PM
On my heads dart pro-1 355 cnc they bolted right on.I did have to shim them up to get proper geometry.I heard the jesel was weak on the tip somewhere.I do have a couple freinds that run them though.I dont know if t&d makes them for those heads or not.But if you do get them make sure they send you the longer bolts for the exhaust side.I think there website is www.tdmach.com..What is nice is buying the tools to check spring tension with the rockers still on.Sounds like you are going to run a decent size cam.I bought the LSM products stuff.I can check spring tension with rocker on.If there is a problem they make the tool to remove the spring right there on the head.It makes things very nice.After watching my valve lash change after tightning down my stud girdles and watching things move around with the old set up i wouldnt buy anything else.I got a smoking deal from a buddy of a buddy that works at t&d.They street race together at hot august nights.