Banderlog valve. Good, bad, indifferent?

[Jordy]

I'm kicking around the idea of running a banderlog valve on my boat this season. I'm ditching the o/t's in favor of t/t's for noise as well as looks. Going through transom makes it a bit harder to see what's going on with the water injection, not to mention I would rather not have to worry, or at least worry less, about the reversion issue.
:D

[flat broke]

Jordo,
There are a couple other options available as well. You could run a solenoid acutated off a MSD window switch to control the water (essentially the Banderlog box but not by Banderlog). You could run the same solenoid valve connected to a microswitch on the carb to only dump water at a certain throttle position. You could connect a solenoid to a toggle on the wheel and run the water at your discretion, or you could just pony up for some polished stainless lightnings :D
In all seriousness, I don't have any 1st hand info on the Banderlog valve. But as a recommendation for any automated setup, make sure the solenoid is "normally closed" and install a valve in front of it, so you can still moderate the water flow in the event of an equipment failure. Better to cook the headers than to hydraulic the motor.
Chris

[Heatseeker]

I installed Banderlog valve last season. I think it was money well spent! No more turning around to check the pipes every time I hit the slow water. I just knew. Nice feeling :D !
You can put a system together a little cheaper, but the B-valve is a clean compact unit. It's easy to install and easy to hide.

[HotRod Sprint]

Hey Jordy, you gonna be selling your old T valve? I be lookin, if you are.
Rod

[Oldsquirt]

Jordy, I'm pretty sure I'm the first "paying" customer. Just missed being on the "beta testing" team.
I used a Bassett T-valve for one season before installing the Banderlog valve. Like Heatseeker, I was getting a sore neck from constantly turning to check for water flow. Hated adjusting the water valves to keep engine temp and header cooling balanced with the widely varying water temps I run in.
Most of us with the Banderlog tap our header supply off of the main water feed to the engine, allowing totally separate control of both.
Here's my pro and cons.
Pros:
1) Easy to install. Just 3 wires, 2 hoses and 4 screws to mount it.
2) Compact size.
3) Contains a cleanable filter screen.
4) Built in valve to control water volume. Pretty much set it and forget it.
5) Reliable as can be.
6) For the non-do-it-yourself type, it's a lot easier than the build-it-up-from-parts method.
Cons:
1) It wasn't free. :)

[slotracer]

i was lucky enough to be one of the test boat on the valve and all i can say is i bought another one for my other boat. set it up and no more problems with water in the engine oil at all. the only bad problem with it is if you get into real shallow water and suck up some dirt you have to clean your filter out. other than that happening one time no more problems works great water on water off.
pat(slotracer):D

[Jordy]

Originally posted by HotRod Sprint
Hey Jordy, you gonna be selling your old T valve? I be lookin, if you are.
Rod
In fact I will if I go this route. Either way, I'll have a set of BBC twisties to get rid of. :D

[Jordy]

Originally posted by OLDSQUIRT
Most of us with the Banderlog tap our header supply off of the main water feed to the engine, allowing totally separate control of both.
That's kinda the way I was thinking, even if I kept the current t-vavle setup. I run off my pump into a regulator, but have a block coming out of the pump that has another fitting that is capped off to hook the hose up to when it's run on the trailer. However, I really don't run it on the trailer, so I was thinking about using that to plumb the exhaust water line.
Thanks for the answers. :D

[squirt]

Yep here is another vote to run one. I installed one at the begining of last season and put a bunch of hours on it. I was always monkeying with the water pressure/ cooling and hated it! Seems like either my headers were way wet or I ran hotter than I wanted to. I like the cut off option and the fact it's a real clean unit:D

[Heatseeker]

Originally posted by jordanpaulk
Either way, I'll have a set of BBC twisties to get rid of. :D
What kinda shape are they in? I'm in need of a pair and new ones are looking farther and farther out of my grasp....
PM me if you're serious.

[Jordy]

Originally posted by Heatseeker
What kinda shape are they in? I'm in need of a pair and new ones are looking farther and farther out of my grasp....
PM me if you're serious.
They're in pretty decent shape. There is some blueing from some water issues (hence this thread) and some surface rust where the collector comes together, but other than that they're solid. The only reason I'm getting rid of them is I like the look of the t/t's and the boat had them on it when my buddy bought it. Personally, I think it will look better with tips in the transom rather than the round block off plates that are there now.
I'll get some pics when I pull them off. How much of a hurry are you in? I could have them off some time this week if you want.

[78Eliminator]

JP, what TT headers did you get? I am thinking of replacing the logs in the schiada.....

[Cas]

John,
I've got a guy looking for some BBC headers so if you get jordy's twisties, I may have the ones you have now sold.

[Jordy]

Originally posted by 78Eliminator
JP, what TT headers did you get? I am thinking of replacing the logs in the schiada.....
Going with the Bassett's. Those logs in the schiada are kinda bitchin, and I haven't seen many (if any) other sets of Edelbrock logs. don't know what that means, but it sounded good.

[78Eliminator]

I can't get them to seal and I am constantly sinching them down to keep them from leaking.
Perhaps I just need to give them a fresh surface jobby.....

[Jordy]

Originally posted by 78Eliminator
I can't get them to seal and I am constantly sinching them down to keep them from leaking.
Perhaps I just need to give them a fresh surface jobby.....
I'd say find a big industrial size belt sander and hit them that way. Other than that, a good gasket, like the fel-pro with the o ringy deal, or some high temp silicone and anything should be sealable... ;)

[78Eliminator]

True dat. Now if D&S would just finish with the damn interior. The schiada has been there since OCTOBER!!!!! And yes, they said the same shit they tell everyone "Give me two weeks".
Today I called them to check up on the status and they said they will have it done in, yes, you guessed it "TWO WEEKS"
If they didn't do such a good job I would be pissed off......

[Jordy]

Right on. The pimp ass green boat is going to look good... in 2 WEEKS!!! :D :cool: :D

[78Eliminator]

Hey like I said, I have so many other projects going between the alcohol motor and the kitchen remodel, let them take their time.
But I am going to be pissed if I don't have it back in time for my birthday next month. I kind of thought it would be fun to take it out in celebratiuon of the big 3-2.

[Heatseeker]

Jordy, depending on the price, I'd need a week or two to come up with the scratch, so no big hurry. Shoot me some pix when you get a chance.
Steve, my old headers went with the Heatseeker sale :( . I kept you a set of water lines though. The only other set of headers I have are my old twisties, the set I blew out at TPII. They're in pretty shabby shape.

[Jordy]

I'm just glad I stopped celebrating birthdays last year... :D

[Jordy]

Originally posted by Heatseeker
Jordy, depending on the price, I'd need a week or two to come up with the scratch, so no big hurry. Shoot me some pix when you get a chance.
I'll get some pics, fire them over to ya and you can look at them. I don't know what you want to spend, and I don't know what they're really worth. Take a look at them and we'll go from there. :D

[Ken F]

For all interested:
Ron Ruggles in Eagle Rock MO has a nice set of OT's for sale too. He's going with TT's also.
You can e-mail him at: ronruggles@mo-net.com
He's asking $300
Ken F

[Jordy]

Originally posted by Ken F
For all interested:
Ron Ruggles in Eagle Rock MO has a nice set of OT's for sale too. He's going with TT's also.
You can e-mail him at: ronruggles@mo-net.com
He's asking $3000
Ken F
Hey, go spam in your own thread... :p :D
Besides, $3,000 seems a little high for some used headers anyway. :D

[Heatseeker]

I'll keep an eye out for the pics Jordy.
Thanks!