need a outboard

[riverman1975]

i am rebuild a 1968 horizon flatty . it had a 100 hp evinrude on it but i need more power. looking for a input on what i should put on her. she is only 16ft. please help :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

[Tom Brown]

I'd put a Merc V6 on there. The weight should be pretty similar.
How much do you want to spend? Carbed 200 Mercs can be had pretty cheap.

[sorry dog]

Keith has some V8's available.

[STVBOY]

I have a 2.4 200hp complete motor for sale with less than 50hrs on motor and a CLE lower unit with low water pick up that has only 5hrs on it. On my STV it pushed it 93 mph. $3000 shipped
THx John

[HavasuDreamin']

Anything more than 150hp and you better make sure the transom and stringers are built like a brick sh*t house. I would recommend a 150 V6. Make sure the bottom is straight and you have plenty of setback. Good Luck

[STVBOY]

The weight of a 150 V6 is the same as a 200 V6 there is no difference.

[HavasuDreamin']

I wouldn't want to run that boat as fast as a 200 will push it. ;)

[CrazyHippy]

Wus
BJH:D :eek: :D

[riverman1975]

if a 150 is the same weight as a 200hp. would you u put the 200hp just to have the power in reserve ? please helppp :confused: :confused: :confused:

[Wicky]

Hell Yes!!! And then add nitrous if you can afford to rebuild a little sooner than planned!!

[Tom Brown]

I've heard nitrous can cut the TBO down. :D
Am I the only one who thinks that hull can take a 200 if the transom will handle it?

[Forkin' Crazy]

What year is the 100? It can be hopped up to 140hp or more at the flywheel. All it takes it the exhaust, carbs, and porting updated to 140 specs. A Merc V6 is heavier than the V4.
You could go to a 140 looper OMC. It puts out 140 hp at the prop. This motor can be hopped up to 160 or so at the prop and live well. You have to use good gas in all of them though.
As far as the Mercs weights, from what I understand the 2 liter is the heaviest b/c of the sleeve thickness. The 2.4 and 2.5s are close, unless it is a nickelcell motor, which has plated aluminum sleeves and is lighter, but more expensive.

[Wicky]

Originally posted by Tom Brown
I've heard nitrous can cut the TBO down. :D
Am I the only one who thinks that hull can take a 200 if the transom will handle it?
TB, I was being serious not fecitous. I agree 100% with you but, only if the transom is strong enough.:D

[riverman1975]

well there is no transom now because i have to rebuild the floor and transom. they were shot look at pics, any idea of how thick i should build it. a local guy here said a 2 inch well build transon will hold anything

[Tom Brown]

Yeah, you'll want to beef up that transom a bit if you want it to handle a 200. :D
A double lamination of 3/4 inch marine plywood is the minimum you should consider. Tripple would be better. Make sure you have knee boards close to the engine clamp bolts.
Here's a shot of my transom knees. My transom is a double 3/4 marine plywould sandwitch (glass/ply/glass/ply/glass) but it is very narrow due to the way the CVX is designed. If the transom were wider, I would have gone three ply.
http://www.carlsonspeed.com/forums/uploads/post-13-1071428380.jpg
Also, I have a piece of 2" square aluminum pipe (6061 - .250 wall) that runs across the top engine clamp bolts and transfers the energy into the knees. Please ignore the splatter. I had just painted the boat and this picture was taken during the buff process. I've never gone back to take a better picture of the clamp bolt brace.
http://www.carlsonspeed.com/~tombrown/QuickLink/transombrace2.jpg
When you rebuild the boat, consider adding some hard points for mounting to, should the need ever arise. Here's a shot of mine. These aluminum pieces are thru-bolted to the keel stringer. I plan to connect these points to the top engine clamp bolts and I also intend to go upwards of 200 hp on my 16' boat.
http://www.carlsonspeed.com/forums/uploads/post-13-1071429145.jpg
Check out the picture Forkin' Crazy posted in this thread. He's got a 235 mounted on there. I'm going to add rods to the top engine clamp bolts on mine too. FC has a really nice solution.
Transom bracing (http://www.havasubarney.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1860&st=0&#entry25274)

[Tom Brown]

Originally posted by Forkin' Crazy
A Merc V6 is heavier than the V4.
I thought the OMC V4 weighed over 300? The Merc V6 is around 325.

[HavasuDreamin']

You lost a lot of strength by cutting the back of that boat out. Are you going to reglass that area to make it look like it once did?

[riverman1975]

yeah i have a new piece made to place there. what is a knee never heard that term before. maybe i will stay with a 150 unless a really sweet deal on a 200hp mercury comes along. i want to have the power there though if i ever would want it. not that the boat would take the wide open speed, but thats the chance i would take . just to have a big dog on the back. new question, would you regelcoat the boat or sand it it enough to prime and paint it. i have heard gelcoat is alot of work and it most of the time is not worth it. but if im going to have this boat for awhile what is the best way to go. can you get the nice wet shine look from painting the boat. i have alot of work and a long time ahead. but i would really like some help on what to do.

[Tom Brown]

Paint can be just as shiny as gel. The quality of the prep work will determine how good it will look far more than the materials. I would recommend you chose whatever you're most comfortable with. If you have no experience with paint or gel, I would chose paint. Of course, that's just my opinion and I'm not a professional painter.
I bought a 150 V6 for my boat, thinking a 200 was too much. Now it's two years later and I'm going for a 2.5. I really don't think 200 is too much if it's done right. Of course, you'll need solid engine mounts, dual cable steering as a minimum, excellent quality rigging, and your boat will have to be strong and straight. Even at that, you'll have to be careful because these small highly overpowered boats will bite. They are a ton of fun if respected, though.
-- Tom

[riverman1975]

heah tahank all you guys for the input you are giving. you are giving me alot to think about. i talk to a guy today that has a 175 merc for 2100.00. he run a local shop here and he will go though it. he know it need a new tilt and trim pump, he will replace at no charge and a new water pump. i think the motor is like a 91 maybeor late 80s. what would you start to sand with , like what grit, would you sand all the gelcoat off or just enough to get a good primer on and a good sufface. what would be a good finish grit before primer?

[Tom Brown]

RM,
A 15 year old 175 is probably only worth $2100 if it's in good condition. Particularly at this time of year. Although if it's someone you're comfortable dealing with, that definitely adds to the value.
As far as sanding, etc... I would encourage you to educate yourself on the process you decide on using. There are filler/primers that can fill 80 grit sanding scratches and there are primers that need blocking out to much higher grits. Which process you chose will steer how you should proceed from here.
You may want to consider asking JBB in his private forum over on RiverRatLife.com. He is a professional painter (and bullshitter) and will give you excellent advice.
Good luck,
Tom

[sorry dog]

Does JBB have his own section or something?
BTW- As for power - I suggest getting a motor that is almost big enough to sink the boat-- but not quite. :D

[HavasuDreamin']

Originally posted by riverman1975
What is a knee never heard that term before.
Knee bracing is either wood, or aluminum that ties the transom of the boat into the stringers. It adds a tremendous amount of strength and distributes the forces throughout the boat as apposed to placing all the force on the transom. They will be mandatory if you plan on running any type of V-6. I would suggest a 2" thick or so transom fully glassed in. I would run a 12" setback bracket on the outside of the boat with a jack plate attached to that (never can have too much setback on the older V hulls). On the inside of the transom, between the stringers, I would go with 3/8" aluminum plating. When you bolt the setback through the transom, also run the bolts through this plate to keep everything together. The aluminum plate should have right angle bends just inside the stringers on each side so that you can run the knee braces from the top of the right angle forward to the stringers (maybe 18" up from the transom). Bolt knee braces to the stringers and to the top of the right angle transom plate.
By the way, if you are going to go through all the work to really put this old hull back together "right" with the idea of having a hi performance type set-up, a 200 hp Merc would be an excellent choice. I said 150 above because I think that would be a good all around motor for sking, tubing, etc. without having to worry to much about hi perf. issues. If you are going to go the 200 route, make sure the transom, stringers, bracing are all structurally sound and make sure the bottom of the hull is straight with no hook.
Good Luck.

[riverman1975]

yeah looking to do it right the first time so hopefully there isnt a next time with this boat. its going to be a father son project. he love the river and love to drive to ( :eek: ) pretty good for a 7 year old. but he like to help so i hope this all works out with all the input everone has giving me. i really would like to thank everone off you !!! be safe everone

[TIMEBOMB]

I have a set of wh20 carbs for the 175, they came off a 200hp and have velocity stacks instead of the airbox. Give me a holer if interested. Also you can pick up some hole shot by removing the water liner out of the exhaust and drilling the exhaust out. This requires the powerhead to be removed, and if you have the powerhead off you might as well change out the tuner. I have a already drilled out mid section I'll take some pictures and post them if you are interested on how it was done. Gary

[riverman1975]

yeah h show some pics on how its done thanks.

[Forkin' Crazy]

on weights.....
OMC/Bombardier all 20" motors
Looper 60 degree V4 115hp range - 328#
Cross flow V4 (like yours)100 to 140hp* - 306#
Looper 90 degree V4 120, 130, & 140 - 368#
Ficht 60 degree V4 115 - 349#
Crossflow V6 2.4 L 150 to 200hp* - 381#
Crossflow V6 2.6L 235hp & GT/XP* - 396#
Looper 90 degree V6 200 & 225hp - 455#
* hp taken at the flywheel, others at the propshaft
Mercury:
2.5 EFI Sport 280hp (20") - 397#
2.5 EFI SS 280hp (15") - 401#
2.5 EFI Drag Race 300 hp (15") - 381#
2.5 EFI Offshore (20") - 412#
Pro Max 225X (15" & 20") - 398# w/ 20" mid.
All OMC/Bombardier weights came from factory technical manuals.
All Mercury weights came from the Mercury web site (http://www.mercurymarine.com/outboards).

[Forkin' Crazy]

From the looks of your boat, it has a fairly low free board. With a 400 pound engine hanging off the rear of a 16' boat might be pretty low. A lot of set back will make this worse to an extent. My friend has a 16' light-weight Hydrostream Vector, and it only has 2" of set back. It is a single seater race boat, though. Not enough set back and the boat will not "fly" the nose and use excessive trim to attempt to do so. Too much set back it will be flighty and use negative trim to "fly" the nose at the right attitude. This may also cause a propus, which is definitely an undesirable characteristic.
IMO, every one is right on with the advise on the transom, knees, etc. Gel is not that hard to master. It just takes some practice and good advice. If the old gel is not cracked or crazed, you can sand it with 180 grit on a D/A sander. Then seal it or spray gel on it.
Looks like you have a nice project, good luck!:cool:
PS Here is a pic of my old Youngblood 18' with a 396# 235 Evinrude on it with 8" of set back. This might give you an idea of low freeboard and what a pain in the ass it can be with traffic and waves. I couldn't pull up to the sand bar and leave it without getting swamped. I usually would turn it around and ancor the bow out and let the stern sit close to the sandbar. But it does look cool!;)
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/767stillside18_15K-med.jpg

[sorry dog]

Just thought I might add.
Suzuki V6 - 150-225 - 454 pounds :D