Intake grate bolts

[Mark Sims]

My local parts guy told me three weeks ago he would get the bolts for my loader and he cant produce. Last time he sees any of my money! Where can I get gr.8 bolts with a countersink head? Thanks for any info.

[OMEGA_BUBBLE_JET]

Lowe's/Home depot have a VERY comprehensive bolt bin. You might be surprised. :) ACE Hardware might have some also.
Omega

[Taylorman]

Originally posted by Mark Sims
My local parts guy told me three weeks ago he would get the bolts for my loader and he cant produce. Last time he sees any of my money! Where can I get gr.8 bolts with a countersink head? Thanks for any info.
Gr8 countersunk bolts will be black which will rust. Use stainless. Try Fastenal or grainger.

[flat broke]

Originally posted by Taylorman
Gr8 countersunk bolts will be black which will rust. Use stainless. Try Fastenal or grainger.
Not to piss in you wheaties but you should be using the grade 8 stuff and inspecting it regularly. Sure stainless won't rust, but it is also not as strong. You're lured into a false sense of security if you get to thinking that, "because its stainless, I don't have to inspect/replace it". Run the grade 8 (get the black oxide stuff, and the rust will be minmal), inspect it regularly, and replace it annualy/as needed.
Chris

[Jet Hydro]

I get mine at ACE.
Use G-8 only!!!
Do NOT use stainless!!!!
I put a little Anit-Seize on mine so the next time I want to take them out I have no problems. Works great...

[MarKist]

Yeah Taylorman ,Dude if you've got ss you need to get gt8 asap they will break! hay by the way how did the water line deal work out ??:)
Mark

[miller19j]

Didn’t they come from Berkeley with Stainless Fasteners on them?

[HalletDave]

Originally posted by miller19j
Didn’t they come from Berkeley with Stainless Fasteners on them?
Yea Miller19j,
27 years ago from Berkeley and Hallett.
Funny thing, they are still there and not rusted.;)
Go figure.:D

[quiet riot]

The way I understand it is some loader type grates that aren't pushing against the intake housing up inside the intake will get a harmonic (slight vibration) at speed. If this is true then ss isn't the best choice for them. SS is fairly strong but is fragile. SS has high yield strength but doesn't stretch like mild steels, it fractures. I would think stock type or supported loaders would be fine with ss like they come from the factory, but gr8 would be better with unsupported type loaders.
fyi - I don't have a lot of exp with loaders, but just what I've heard from a few pep's. And the local ace hardware here has countersunk gr8 bolts.
jd

[Taylorman]

Originally posted by MarKist
Yeah Taylorman ,Dude if you've got ss you need to get gt8 asap they will break! hay by the way how did the water line deal work out ??:)
Mark
Been using ss for 3 years now never broke yet.
My water valve deal has a couple bugs in it. First, the lower rpm module did not adjust like its suppose to. Other than that it will work pretty good.

[cyclone]

some SS is better than others. I've had some SS bolts work great and other snap while installing them. Now I run grade 8-in the motor mounts, loader and droop too and just replace them every now and again if they start to rust.

[Jetmugg]

Typical type 304 SS (18-8 Stainless) tensile strength is around 75,000 psi. By comparison, grade 8 bolts (43xx series steels) will generally be at or over 200,000 psi. Use the grade 8 if you want to be safe------ and safety comes first.
SteveM - Metallurgical Engineer.

[Squirtcha?]

Ditto what Mike said. My understanding is that (most?) stainless is about the equivalent of a grade 4 or 5. I'd use the grade 8.

[miller19j]

Originally posted by Jetmugg
Typical type 304 SS (18-8 Stainless) tensile strength is around 75,000 psi. By comparison, grade 8 bolts (43xx series steels) will generally be at or over 200,000 psi. Use the grade 8 if you want to be safe------ and safety comes first.
SteveM - Metallurgical Engineer. Just out of curiosity how is the tensile strength of steel affected by rust?

[squirt_gon]

Use olny g8 bolts!!! the ss DO BREAK. If your intake is taped for
.250 retap to .3125 . I drill and tap all the way through the intake
and use jam nuts on top.

[Jetmugg]

Rust isn't very strong. That being said, it also would take a long time for a grade 8 bolt to rust to the point that the cross sectional area of the bolt is significantly reduced.
Also, check the major sanctioning body rules governing loader hardware. The rule books I've seen specifically prohibit stainless fasteners for jet boat loaders.
I know that some of the racers here replace their bolts religiously after each race (grade 8). A broken loader bolt could cost you your life. If you buy a box of them from McMaster or MSC, or somebody else like that, you can save major $$ as well.
It's not a matter of opinion or preference - the grade 8 bolts are simply stronger. If you are building a boat for show only, by all means use all the polished SS you can afford, but don't put your safety in jeapordy by using SS bolts on your loader.
SteveM

[BigBoyToys]

FYI, The NJBA requirements for all Jet Boat Intake Grates are Grade 8, Drilled through, and nutted up top. ABSOLUTELY NO Stainless bolts allowed. Now, that being said, that is what is in the rule book and I have never actually seen them check to see if stainless or not.
Just my .02, go with a grade 8, drill and thread all the way through the intake, locking nut up top, and replace them every year. You can get them at any good hardware store. If you've ever seen a Intake grate come out from the bolts breaking at a high speed, you'll know that it isn't a pretty sight. My family's and my life isn't worth risking it and I feel that it's more than worth it shelling out the $10.00 or so per year on new intake bolts.
When it comes to safety, don't be cheap!

[cyclone]

ditto to squit gon and BBT..my intake is drilled and threaded all the way through and i've got lock nuts on the inside of the boat to hold the loader bolts and intake brace in place.

[LVjetboy]

I've had SS loader bolts shear. On a 80 mph jet boat. I run black iron now. And I go a bit faster.
You want peace of mind? I can guarantee you if your loader lets loose for the cost of 4 bolts there's no peace of mind. Or be happy with whatever cheap overseas grade SS you get from the hardware store (after all they're SS and don't rust so they must be really strong, right?) or what your mfg installed. If you only do 60...no problem. Your loader most likely not stressed. Be happy with whatever.
On the other hand, if you want high performance or upgrading to get there...go with what Steve and others recommend.
jer

[victorfb]

why not use grade 8 and then paint over em afterwards?
dont tell me you drive a delorean too? :p

[LVjetboy]

What does paint have to do with strength?
jer

[TRG]

if its painted..."IT WONT RUST"!
and if anyone says it will not last...why does speed cote last so long?

[LVjetboy]

"if its painted..."IT WONT RUST!"
Ya whatever.
jer

[BigBoyToys]

Steel will rust, painted or not, given time.
Just use the Fricking grade 8's and replace them every year. It isn't that expensive and takes less than 15 minutes to do:rolleyes:
I can guarantee you that you don't want to wait until the "oh $hit" factor hits before you realize that what you coulda and shoulda done....but didn't.

[Jet Hydro]

Originally posted by Jet Hydro
I get mine at ACE.
Use G-8 only!!!
Do NOT use stainless!!!!
I put a little Anit-Seize on mine so the next time I want to take them out I have no problems. Works great...
Trust me :D

[Mopar426]

What if the grate breaks loose?? I was told that the boat would take a serious nose dive. I not only used grade 8 directly from Copper state bolt company, went the next size larger from stock Berkeley. I drilled all the way through and tapped, then put lock nuts on the top side. Don't want to take chances.

[OkieDave]

If the loader comes loose when you are running hard, you will probably crash in one way or another depending on how fast your ride is. At the very least, you will tear up the pump when it tries to digest the steel loader. I watched a cheyenne tunnel leave the water, turn sideways in the air, and land and barrell-roll when his loader broke apart at around 80. another friend's cheyenne took a hard turn and tossed him out at around 80 when his loader came loose. another friend blew the pump suction peice into bits and sunk his boat when his loader came loose. it's not fun.

[cyclone]

Originally posted by LVjetboy
"if its painted..."IT WONT RUST!"
Ya whatever.
jer
settle down beavis. the man is just trying to help. of course the bolts will eventually rust even with paint on them but it'll take a lot longer. :)