pics of FrznJim's turbo set up

[superdave013]

I will let him fill you in on the details.
http://free.***boat.net/gallery/Gearhead_Garage/Motors_and_Drives/raturbo3.JPG
http://free.***boat.net/gallery/Gearhead_Garage/Motors_and_Drives/raturbo2.JPG
http://free.***boat.net/gallery/Gearhead_Garage/Motors_and_Drives/raturbo1.JPG

[SPECTRABRENT]

Which boat is he installing that motor?
Spectra 20?
Spectra 24?
Brent

[Infomaniac]

:D :D :D :D

[69 Elim]

eek!

[FrznJim]

Well, the saga continues.....
First off, thank you guys for the recommendation to upsize the turbo oil drain lines. We revised them to -10 and the turbo oil exhaust leaks are no more.
We ran the engine up to 5800 rpm on the dyno with little load and the boost was up to 26 psi. Fortunately, the engine didn't come apart. The turbo exhaust housings are Gentry water jacket and the waste gates are spring/diaphram type. We checked the pressure to activate the gates and they start opening at 20 to 22 psi. Our thought is to change out the springs (they look like a valve spring) and go with a weaker spring which actuates at 7 or 8 psi. Your comments on this thought will be appreciated.
The electronic control unit (ECU) is a Lee Performance/Autronics SMC system. I purchased software with the engine but it is apparently a different verson (I need version 1.03) and received version 1.09. The version of software I have will not talk to the ECU. I plan to contact Autronics to see if I can get a download for the correct version. Anyone have version 1.03??
The plan is to put the engine in a Spectra 20, with turbo 400, Ace Champion v-drive (now 15% gears) I would like to purchase 29s or greater if anyone might have some to sell.
Lastly, thank you to SuperDave for posting the pics.

[superdave013]

Jim, I exchange gears for a $50.00 fee. I have some 10 degree 29's now and have some 12 degree 29's on the way. Both are for a quickchange case. I don't have any gears in any ratio right now for a C-500.
How many cubic inch is that deal anyway??

[flat broke]

FrznJim:
Well, the saga continues.....
We ran the engine up to 5800 rpm on the dyno with little load and the boost was up to 26 psi. Fortunately, the engine didn't come apart. The turbo exhaust housings are Gentry water jacket and the waste gates are spring/diaphram type. We checked the pressure to activate the gates and they start opening at 20 to 22 psi. Our thought is to change out the springs (they look like a valve spring) and go with a weaker spring which actuates at 7 or 8 psi. Your comments on this thought will be appreciated.
Your setup looks NICE. I especially like the FI setup. Exactly what I wanted to do with mine when I ultimately build the motor I want.
On your wastegates, You could either buy the big turbonetics wastegates as they can bleed off more boost and are adjustable, call George at Clay Smith as I think he has a lead on other large wastegates, or if you're going to rework yours, you might try the following(this is just a theory so don't take it as gospel)... Drill and tap the area above the spring that keeps the diaphram in check. On the inside of the housing make a stainless plunger plate the same O.D. as the spring you're going to use. Then setup the lighter spring that will blow off at 7-8lbs. But use the tapped hole above the spring and plunger plate to start the appropriate size bolt with a jam nut. This way, you can use the bolt to push the plunger and preload the spring so you could keep the wastegates from opening as soon. The result would be an adjustable wastegate. Run it with the adjustment bolt backed off the plunger for 7-8 lbs like you want, but then "turn in the screws" (I had to use the pun) to increase the boost and make more power.
One thing to think about in this application is that the plunger material will have to be able to withstand heat and constant movement. I believe that once the wastegate starts operating, it is constantly fluttering, even at constant RPM. This is probably why the spring looks like a valvespring. It has to be able ot take a lot of abuse.
Now for the disclaimer :) I don't know shit about Turbos, and probably have a couple of years ahead of me before I will have a setup like yours. Something I would check on is the ability of your ECU to read the Map sensor and make timing changes accordingly. If it has the capability, I'd say you might be able to run a slight amount of boost referenced timing retard. The only thing you would have to be careful about is not retarding too much and increasing the EGT to a point that is detremental to engine performance and valve life.
Good luck and be sure to post more pics when you get that bad boy in the boat.
Chris

[058]

superdave013:
Jim, I exchange gears for a $50.00 fee. I have some 10 degree 29's now and have some 12 degree 29's on the way. Both are for a quickchange case. I don't have any gears in any ratio right now for a C-500.
How many cubic inch is that deal anyway??S-Dave, Do you sell gears outright? I might be interested in those 12deg 29s. Boat has 22s in it now but I'd like to hang on to those.

[superdave013]

058:
superdave013:
Jim, I exchange gears for a $50.00 fee. I have some 10 degree 29's now and have some 12 degree 29's on the way. Both are for a quickchange case. I don't have any gears in any ratio right now for a C-500.
How many cubic inch is that deal anyway??S-Dave, Do you sell gears outright? I might be interested in those 12deg 29s. Boat has 22s in it now but I'd like to hang on to those.I try not to. I pay top dollar for the gears so if I made any money on selling them you would be over paying if that makes any sense.
Exchanging them is what keeps me going. I pretty much am just doing it as a service to help guys get what they need and not pay through the a$$ for gears. The other guy that's doing the same thing gets 125.00 for an exchange. I don't know how he commands that kind of coin but he gets it. Maybe he will sell you a set. I can get you his # if you want. Hate to see what he would want for them though. eek!

[K3-River-Rat]

058:
[QUOTE]Boat has 22s in it now but I'd like to hang on to those.Now that's just my luck :( Those 22s were what I'm after and I'm sure SD will let me know as soon as he has some on the way :D FrznJim I like that twin turbo set up you have there :cool:

[78DiMarco]

Jim:
Nice setup. Sounds like you solved the oil issue. Your 26 pounds of boost is a little up there!
Hold on.....

[HeavyHitter]

Jim, nice set up. 26 lbs is a bit much. How accurate was the gauge? That's a lot for even H trim compressors into a big block. That thing should be making a ton of torque (1200+ ft-lbs)and run out of boost at the top end with that level. To hold onto that kind of pressure you're probably running copper gaskets with o-ringed heads. Good idea is to have the block receiver groved to help keep the water out of the oil. To get adjustable boost run a light spring and install an air regulator across the diaphragm on the waste gate actuator. This will require drilling and adding a fitting to the bottom of the housing. You can mount the regulator close to the seat so you can change the boost on the fly. Be carefull the Gentry waste gates are only 1.5" which is small if your wanting to keep high boost from running away. Should be fun in a v-drive.
Wally

[FrznJim]

We're not there yet. We wired the waste gates wide open and we still run up to 26 lbs of boost. The waste gates in the gentry housing are 1 - 5/16" diameter. We think the boost gauge is accurate as it is a readout we're getting on the dyno. The next thought is to go to a less aggressive turbine wheel. If that doesn't do it go to a lesser exhaust turbine wheel. Any thoughts?? I have lighter springs on order but they're not going to do much. frown

[flat broke]

Jim,
Sorry to hear that youre still tinkerin with that. If you had the wastegates held open and you still made 26lbs, I don't know if the ligher springs are going to help any.
On the re mapping of the impellers, my instinct would be to mess with the turbine side before the compressor side. This way you will slow down the RPM of the unit as you drop off boost. If you change the compressor side, the turbo will still be spinning as fast as it is now, just moving less air. I would think that if you could lower the turbine RPM, you would lower the operating temp. Once again, just theory, but I thought I'd give ya my .02
Chris
[ October 23, 2002, 11:26 AM: Message edited by: flat broke ]

[FrznJim]

Chris, Superdave, HeavyHitter, et al:
Here's the final dyno numbers on my 500 inch EFI twin turbo: 751 hp @ 5800 rpm, 748 ft-lb torque @ 4600 rpm, boost is now at 9 lbs. We changed out the compressor wheels to get the boost down. The horsepower was still climbing but the engine was beginning to starve for fuel. I don't think the fuel pump could keep up. We ran it up to 6500 rpm but the fuel pressure started dropping at 5800, hence horsepower dropped. I've spent way too much money getting this engine to this point, so we're not going to pursue more power; like bigger fuel pump, stiffer springs on the waste gate actuators, alternate intake manifold.
Anyway, thanks for all your great input. I've learned a lot about turbos and efi systems. If anyone ever wants to hear about who not to buy a turbo engine from, and the rest of the story, let me know.

[Infomaniac]

That ought to be enough power for anything.
Cool engine man

[cal***boat]

Jim, What kind of fishing boat you going to that monster into up there in Alaska ??? smile_sp