Blower setup question

[78Eliminator]

If you built your motor from scratch I want to pick your brain as far as the total costs, what your setup is and what kind of HP you're pushing. I am redoing my jet first and need to add an appropriate impeller now to prepare for a blower motor later this year. Could you break it down for me a little....
This was originally for infomaniac but anyone's input would be great....
J
[ January 07, 2003, 02:17 PM: Message edited by: 78Eliminator ]

[Liberator TJ1984]

Justin , my motor:
Stock bore 454 / 4 bolt
Steel GM crank , 3/8" GM rods stress relieved and buhed for floating pins,3/8"ARP Pro Ser. Rod bolts,TRW 8 3/4 Comp.Pistons,Rotating assy.Balanced,Stock Big oval port heads -ported but sm.valves Manley SS S.duty,solid roller 602/623 234/246@.50 114lobe sep,roller valvetrain and stud girdle,geardrive,Msd7ML3,MSD Dist., 8/71 Weiand Blower @ 12under =6# Boost,2 850 Holleys
spins SS A+ impeller @ 5400rpm (16#boost 6200+)
Builder put on Desktop Dyno =650hp 700ft.tq @6#
Approx.4grand to build not incl. blower, carbs,scoop,and accys....Gopherrrr
Justin this is with sm.valves next year putting aluminium heads on along w/my 1050's should be very near 850/900hp at only 12# boost -go with at least an 8/71 don't have to spin as fast to make boost #
ps..had long block already .just added new parts or remachined ,saved alot of $$$$
[ January 10, 2003, 07:08 AM: Message edited by: Liberator TJ1984 ]

[Hotcrusader76]

And you already have the carbs J! Just get some 850HP bodies and re-cal those Billet pieces and your set.
Justin, I have thrown the same idea back and forth, boost or not! Unfortunately I am in the search for the Enderle set-up. Not for the Jet but for a project I am working on.
Merlin block, Injected....and maybe blown! The boat of choice????? Well sorry guys...it won't be a prop. I am waiting around for a hull to surface that appeals me :rolleyes: ....hmmmm

[Infomaniac]

Justin - Short and sweet. 18 - 20k depending on how complete. This is EVERYTHING Brand New, block etc. That is what I consider from scratch. Fuel and Ignition systems included.
That will get you an itercooled 10-71 blown 500 - 600 inch engine with the best of everything. As far as power? As much as you can make on pump gas. The blower package alone is 5.5 - 6.5 k. Subtract that and 1 800.00 carb if you do not want it blown.
Am working on one now for Well Done. Custom Comp Cam about 2 weeks out. I will post it step by step when the time comes. Dyno runs and all.
Added this after it was quoted:
Justin - This engine can even be done for about 2k less with some different parts. Eagle rods no hydraulic roller etc. Still plenty strong for a pump gas deal.
[ January 07, 2003, 09:02 PM: Message edited by: Infomaniac ]

[GofastRacer]

Infomaniac:
Justin - Short and sweet. 18 - 20k depending on how complete. This is EVERYTHING Brand New, block etc. That is what I consider from scratch. Fuel and Ignition systems included.
That will get you an itercooled 10-71 blown 500 - 600 inch engine with the best of everything. As far as power? As much as you can make on pump gas. The blower package alone is 5.5 - 6.5 k. Subtract that and 1 800.00 carb if you do not want it blown.
Am working on one now for Well Done. Custom Comp Cam about 2 weeks out. I will post it step by step when the time comes. Dyno runs and all. This sounds sweet, hope we don't have to wait too long!!... :D :D

[Infomaniac]

GofastRacer:
Infomaniac:
Justin - Short and sweet. 18 - 20k depending on how complete. This is EVERYTHING Brand New, block etc. That is what I consider from scratch. Fuel and Ignition systems included.
That will get you an itercooled 10-71 blown 500 - 600 inch engine with the best of everything. As far as power? As much as you can make on pump gas. The blower package alone is 5.5 - 6.5 k. Subtract that and 1 800.00 carb if you do not want it blown.
Am working on one now for Well Done. Custom Comp Cam about 2 weeks out. I will post it step by step when the time comes. Dyno runs and all. This sounds sweet, hope we don't have to wait too long!!... :D :D Like you would really be impressed. wink Some of us get to see engines like this all the time and some do not. It will be for those that do not. Maybe someone will beat me to it?
I have started taking pics and will take a bunch more as it goes together. I want to post them all at once so it looks like it was a wiz bang deal. Not several weeks of waiting for this and that.

[Hotcrusader76]

Infomaniac?
Who did you talk to at Comp Cams? I have called twice to speak with someone on a Nitrous cam that I am adding. I didn't have a warm and fuzzy on both conversations that took place because of the info he asked and DIDN'T ask!
Without all the cam selection drama....I just wanted someone who was willing to LISTEN and work with me, not against me. I favor Comp Cams over most, but why such the hassle?
~Ty

[Infomaniac]

It was Dennis Something LOL
I have the info at work. I will post it in the morning.
I pretty much knew what I wanted. He let me know what they could do. I researched it heavily and Comp has a good lobe design. It is a bit harder on springs but that is OK. Hydraulic roller is not very radical anyway.
The smaller companies generally are more friendly on the phone.
[ January 07, 2003, 08:39 PM: Message edited by: Infomaniac ]

[Hotcrusader76]

No kidding :D
Just call me up and you would know... :D
Thanks for the info though. I have an idea of what I want profile wise, but hell, where's the love! Shit business must be good for them :rolleyes:
~Ty

[Infomaniac]

Hotcrusader76:
Infomaniac?
Who did you talk to at Comp Cams? I have called twice to speak with someone on a Nitrous cam that I am adding. I didn't have a warm and fuzzy on both conversations that took place because of the info he asked and DIDN'T ask!
Without all the cam selection drama....I just wanted someone who was willing to LISTEN and work with me, not against me. I favor Comp Cams over most, but why such the hassle?
~Ty Dennis Miles is who I talked to. 800-365-9145 ext 534 will get you around the tech line wait.

[Unchained]

I worked up this build sheet a year ago to show the costs to put together a blower engine. I got most of the components costs from the Summit catalog. http://www.childsdale-ind-prop.com/enginepartsstudy.jpg
Now if you buy all the stuff from a reputable engine builder the magic fairy dust that they add costs an additional $ 12k to 15k.
eek!

[Infomaniac]

I remember that thread. Most thought the fairy dust cost was worth it. I was amazed.
Good job with the list. A lot of those parts have increased in cost quite a bit. It puts the totals right at what I mentioned. Add an intercooler, some misc machine work, misc doo dads and we are right on.
[ January 08, 2003, 06:27 AM: Message edited by: Infomaniac ]

[GofastRacer]

Infomaniac:
GofastRacer:
Infomaniac:
Justin - Short and sweet. 18 - 20k depending on how complete. This is EVERYTHING Brand New, block etc. That is what I consider from scratch. Fuel and Ignition systems included.
That will get you an itercooled 10-71 blown 500 - 600 inch engine with the best of everything. As far as power? As much as you can make on pump gas. The blower package alone is 5.5 - 6.5 k. Subtract that and 1 800.00 carb if you do not want it blown.
Am working on one now for Well Done. Custom Comp Cam about 2 weeks out. I will post it step by step when the time comes. Dyno runs and all. This sounds sweet, hope we don't have to wait too long!!... :D :D Like you would really be impressed. wink Some of us get to see engines like this all the time and some do not. It will be for those that do not. Maybe someone will beat me to it?
I have started taking pics and will take a bunch more as it goes together. I want to post them all at once so it looks like it was a wiz bang deal. Not several weeks of waiting for this and that. Hell yeah i would be impressed, anything that makes a ton of power impresses me!, besides I'm always looking to learn something!!... wink

[Blown 472]

Call Kevin at Kuhl's, he used to build blown chevy offshore motors, talk to him to get an idea.
Alot of these ideas are great but they are following the go big or go home theory.
It is all relative to how much power you want to make also.
[ January 10, 2003, 05:40 AM: Message edited by: Blown 472 ]

[Infomaniac]

If building from scratch, the cost is difference is minimal if building a 454 or a 588. Within about 2,000 if buying everything new.

[Liberator TJ1984]

Don't know anything about SPEED-O-MOTIVE Engines but they advertise a Blown 540 package for around $13,000.00 1000hp @ 5,500rpm. :confused: Info.do you know what quality work this is ??? Gopherrr
eek! I see 472's been busy :D
[ January 10, 2003, 09:24 AM: Message edited by: Liberator TJ1984 ]

[78Eliminator]

Thanks Liberator, Info and Unchained for the details. I am selling some stuff to finance this. My boat is going to be out of control. I am going from about 600 HP to 1100+(?) should be pretty crazy.......
J

[78Eliminator]

472, who's the new chick in the avatar?

[flat broke]

Liberator TJ1984:
Don't know anything about SPEED-O-MOTIVE Engines but they advertise a Blown 540 package for around $13,000.00 1000hp @ 5,500rpm. :confused: Info.do you know what quality work this is ??? Gopherrr
eek! I see 472's been busy :D I can tell you that at that price you probably aren't talking pump gas, and either way, your actually talking hand grenade. 1000hp can be done, but there is a huge difference between a motor that can make 1000hp, and one that can sustain 1000hp.
Justin,
While it is true that on a "from scratch" motor displacement increases up to about 600ci are basically free if you plan ahead(custom parts are custom parts, it doesn't matter what stroke the crank is or how long the rods are, they cost the same). But the determining factor on price is going to be how much HP you want to make. There is a big difference in price between 700 and 1000hp. I can tell you from experience that you could put together a decent rotating assembly(all USA made forged components with SRP pistons) for around 2k.
Scat 4130 forged 4.00 or 4.250 crank - 580
Manley 4340 forged H beams - 550
SRP BBC pistons including locks and pins - 600
JE piston rings - 130
typical balancing costs - 150
bearings - 100
So everything minus your block and/or block prep work 2110 plus tax.
Your head and induction choices would vary so greatly I wouldn't even bother to speculate on the prices. But the prices above are average and you could probably get a "good guy" price on the items if you have a builder that you can trust and will be making some money off of the machine work.
As for the impeller, I would strongly suggest waiting until you have dyoned your new mill before making the purchase. Then you can have the impeller matched to your powerband and have an optimized setup. Otherwise you're going to have to buy an impeller now, install it, run it with the current mill, then pull it to have it profiled once you get the bigger motor. You might want to find a cheapo aluminum impeller to run for the time being and then buy the bigger wheel when you get the new motor done. Depending on your HP levels a detailed SS impeller will probably run up over a grand depending on the cut.
Good luck,
Chris

[flat broke]

Justin,
I just saw your post about going from 600hp to 1100hp. That will have a HUGE impact on the type of parts you are going to buy if you want the thing to last. Better just find about 30k and if you have some left over money you can use it to buy your safety equipment and have the hull reworked to handle that kind of HP. If you want to pull off that kind of HP, I would seriously consider setting up a turbo'd motor instead of a blown one.
Good luck,
Chris

[78Eliminator]

flat broke:
You might want to find a cheapo aluminum impeller to run for the time being and then buy the bigger wheel when you get the new motor done. That sounds like a good idea. I will have the funds to start this project in a few months and I want to be able to do river trips in the mean time, so this actaully sounds like a good idea. I wonder how much I could get if I sold my current motor complete......

[Heatseeker]

Liberator TJ1984:
Don't know anything about SPEED-O-MOTIVE Engines but they advertise a Blown 540 package for around $13,000.00 1000hp @ 5,500rpm. :confused: Info.do you know what quality work this is ??? Gopherrr
eek! I see 472's been busy :D Beware: Don't buy a Speed-o-motive engine!!!
I have a relative that bought that exact package. He put it in a Sanger hydro. First time out, it spun a bearing(it had the wrong rear main installed, partially blocking the oil passage, for starters). Right out of the crate. He took it in to his local machine shop and the guy told him it was assembled terribly! He had to replace the crank, bearings, etc. $3000 later, he re-installs it and a valve hits a piston. Same cam and pistons it came with! He never even got to open it up!
If you search this board, you will find a thread on these guys(about 1 - 1 1/2 years ago), with a few other guys that had the same experience with their stuff.
Buy the way, after several calls, Speed-o-motive totally blew him off, telling him it was his fault it blew up! All he did was install it and break it in! I don't know how they've stayed in business since 1946!
[ January 10, 2003, 10:33 AM: Message edited by: Heatseeker ]

[78Eliminator]

Heatseeker:
Beware: Don't buy a Speed-o-motive engine!!!
If you search this board, you will find a thread on these guys(about 1 - 1 1/2 years ago), with a few other guys that had the same experience with their stuff.
This is why these boards are so valuble! Thanks for the information. I am too critical to buy a crate motor anyway. I will have stuff machined, then double check the work just like Smokey Yunich says :)

[Craig]

Friend of mine had almost the same experience as Heatseakers with a 540 from them. Had the wrong dampner on it and all. Kept eating up bearings. You get what you pay for!

[Liberator TJ1984]

Thanks Heatseeker :D I basicly did what Flatbroke Quoted,plus my engine builder is a friend.As kids we would help him wash his racecar and he has always helped us back with his work so this alone saved me a couple grand,I had peanut port heads bought oval port w/manley SD/ SS from him for only $250 but have small valves,in all I only have 4 grand in my shortblock and valvetrain but I had alot of outside help but even though if you have the basics you could probably build one for what S O Motive is asking and be very reliable ,if I detailed every cost that is close to what I would have spent in all at full prices.

[Blown 472]

Did you happen see the car craft mag with the crate motor they swapped the cam in it, single four barrel blow thru, made 796 hp at seven psi of boost??

[Blown 472]

I have another article I will send you J, crate motor, oval port head, change the cam, weiand 8.71 with two 850's 750 hp at 8 or 9 psi, when I find the mag I will mail it out.

[78Eliminator]

Blown 472:
I have another article I will send you J, crate motor, oval port head, change the cam, weiand 8.71 with two 850's 750 hp at 8 or 9 psi, when I find the mag I will mail it out. Thanks dude. Like I said, another option is to just throw a blower on my current setup and see what breaks.....

[Blown 472]

78Eliminator:
Blown 472:
I have another article I will send you J, crate motor, oval port head, change the cam, weiand 8.71 with two 850's 750 hp at 8 or 9 psi, when I find the mag I will mail it out. Thanks dude. Like I said, another option is to just throw a blower on my current setup and see what breaks..... Then you can start the box o carnage. :D

[78Eliminator]

Blown 472:
Thanks dude. Like I said, another option is to just throw a blower on my current setup and see what breaks..... Then you can start the box o carnage. :D [/QB][/QUOTE]
R&D. The "D" stands for "Destruction"....

[Blown 472]

78Eliminator:
Blown 472:
Thanks dude. Like I said, another option is to just throw a blower on my current setup and see what breaks..... Then you can start the box o carnage. :D R&D. The "D" stands for "Destruction".... [/QB][/QUOTE]
That is how I did it, the blown motor in my dodge was a 1000.00 throw together, hone the block on the tail gate of my truck mule motor that has not broken anything and I am making 9 psi in that one, I figured since I did not know shit about blown motors if I was going to blow one up why spend all the money.

[HavasuDreamin']

78Eliminator
another option is to just throw a blower on my current setup and see what breaks..... Not advised! That makes for a lot of trips where you are on the wrong end of the rope. It makes for frustrating boating. It makes for expensive boating. Plus, after spending money on a blower for your current motor, there is no guarantee you won't pop the blower in which case you are worse off than if you just build a motor now and sell the current one.
Do it right from the get go, and you will be much happier and a LOT less frustrated. Good Luck

[78Eliminator]

I can't wait.
Question: All the blocks like the 540's and up, are they all based off the 454 BB? Will my Dooley oil pan fit and if I get a blower for my current block, will it fit in the future when I get a REAL blower motor?

[HavasuDreamin']

78Eliminator:
I can't wait.
Question: All the blocks like the 540's and up, are they all based off the 454 BB? Will my Dooley oil pan fit and if I get a blower for my current block, will it fit in the future when I get a REAL blower motor? I believe the 540 is a derivative of the 502 siamese block.

[Blown 472]

siamese
One hung low.

[Heatseeker]

78Eliminator:
Thanks dude. Like I said, another option is to just throw a blower on my current setup and see what breaks..... I did exactly that. I bolted a BDS 8-71 on top of my 1985 454. The engine has never been out of the boat. Ran it all last Summer without a hitch! Like 472 said, I'd rather blow the tune-up and destroy a relatively cheap engine rather than the engine on my stand!
For the last 18 months,I've benn putting together an o-ringed 4-bolt 454, .070" over. I got about $4k in the bottom end including: buying the used block, Callie's crank, Manley rods, SRP slugs, ARP main studs, Clevite bearings, Total Seal rings, block machining and internal balancing.
I just bought some bare 990 rect. ports. I figure I'll spend another $2k dressing them. And I still haven't made a firm decision on a cam yet. I figure I'll drop another $1500 on the cam and valvetrain.
By the time I bolt the engine in, I estimate spending around $12k(including the cost of the blower set-up I'm currently running). But I know the thing is right!
The anticipation is killing me. I guess that's "hot boating on a budget"...
BTW: 472, I'd like to see that crate motor article too, if it's not a hassle.

[GofastRacer]

Heatseeker:
78Eliminator:
Thanks dude. Like I said, another option is to just throw a blower on my current setup and see what breaks..... I did exactly that. I bolted a BDS 8-71 on top of my 1985 454. The engine has never been out of the boat. Ran it all last Summer without a hitch! Like 472 said, I'd rather blow the tune-up and destroy a relatively cheap engine rather than the engine on my stand!
For the last 18 months,I've benn putting together an o-ringed 4-bolt 454, .070" over. I got about $4k in the bottom end including: buying the used block, Callie's crank, Manley rods, SRP slugs, ARP main studs, Clevite bearings, Total Seal rings, block machining and internal balancing.
I just bought some bare 990 rect. ports. I figure I'll spend another $2k dressing them. And I still haven't made a firm decision on a cam yet. I figure I'll drop another $1500 on the cam and valvetrain.
By the time I bolt the engine in, I estimate spending around $12k(including the cost of the blower set-up I'm currently running). But I know the thing is right!
The anticipation is killing me. I guess that's "hot boating on a budget"...
BTW: 472, I'd like to see that crate motor article too, if it's not a hassle. I know 990 heads are a good factory head(I use them myself)but why are you spending $2k on 990 heads when you can buy aftermarkets for less and have a better set of heads??..Please, I'm not being a smart ass here, just curious!!.. :confused:

[Heatseeker]

Go fast, That number includes the $500 I paid for the heads. My estimate may be a little over, but like I said, they're bare. I'm going to have hardened seats installed, the seats machined for the taller springs, the new guides installed and machined for 3/8" stems, big Ferrea valves, new springs, titanium retainers and keepers(I've seen what happens when those puppies break!), the works. By the time I get them back from the shop, I figure I'll have spent close to $2k. If I come in under, it'll help me get closer to completing the whole package faster!
I looked into different options, but I wasn't able to put together a less expensive alternative. All the Aluminums are big $. And even Iron Merlins aren't cheap! If you have a line on a more reasonable route, let me know. I'm always open for suggestions.

[blownrat]

78elim i just finish have this built, there is to many pages for this,will e-mail if you like. basicly started with 427 tall deck,bored.100,eagle rotating ass,big brodie 2x heads,chb 304/310 h14 race cam, $9,916.00 from intake down. i had 8/71 tbs blower and carbs. ended up with 505ci,7lbs boost, pump gas,dynoed at 5900rpm 792.2hp 705.2 trq, full trq came in at 4100 at774.8 just let me know if you want more infor. blownrat

[GofastRacer]

Heatseeker:
Go fast, That number includes the $500 I paid for the heads. My estimate may be a little over, but like I said, they're bare. I'm going to have hardened seats installed, the seats machined for the taller springs, the new guides installed and machined for 3/8" stems, big Ferrea valves, new springs, titanium retainers and keepers(I've seen what happens when those puppies break!), the works. By the time I get them back from the shop, I figure I'll have spent close to $2k. If I come in under, it'll help me get closer to completing the whole package faster!
I looked into different options, but I wasn't able to put together a less expensive alternative. All the Aluminums are big $. And even Iron Merlins aren't cheap! If you have a line on a more reasonable route, let me know. I'm always open for suggestions. I was just curious because I was looking in Summit's catalog and you can get Brodix aluminum's ready to go for $1999, Iron Merlin's ready to go for $1679 and Merlin S/Pro aluminum's for $2150 ready to go. All of those far surpasses the 990 heads right out of the box for the same price!, I just can't justify spending all that money on 990's, but that's just my opinion!!.. :rolleyes:

[Heatseeker]

Go fast, now you got me thinking...
I was going the 990 route because I could buy parts a little at a time. With my budget, it's hard to make the big purchases.
But with tax time coming soon(and the ensuing refund!), I'm thinking I might change course a bit and pop for the Iron Merlins. I can't really justify a set of aluminums, but maybe some irons. I am going to do some research on the VR's. If I can use them out of the box with my cam choice(which I've yet to make), I think I'll snag some.
I can always off the 990's.
Thanks for making me think(thinking doesn't always come easy for me)!

[Infomaniac]

Look at the AFR's They are reasonable and someone from here needs to try some. Otherwise go for the Dart 345's.

[GofastRacer]

Heatseeker:
Go fast, now you got me thinking...
I was going the 990 route because I could buy parts a little at a time. With my budget, it's hard to make the big purchases.
But with tax time coming soon(and the ensuing refund!), I'm thinking I might change course a bit and pop for the Iron Merlins. I can't really justify a set of aluminums, but maybe some irons. I am going to do some research on the VR's. If I can use them out of the box with my cam choice(which I've yet to make), I think I'll snag some.
I can always off the 990's.
Thanks for making me think(thinking doesn't always come easy for me)! I can relate big time on the budget deal!!, all of these heads are available as bare castings for almost half the price, that way you can buy the rest of the parts as you go along. Personally, that's the way I would buy them, that way I can get the rest of the stuff to match my application!!.
Info, you're on the ball, I forgot about those, I know a couple of car guys that run AFR's and they love em, I thought about trying a set myself!..The Dart 345's are definitly kick ass!!.. :cool:

[21rayson]

what about the edelbrock marine rpm heads comes with inconel exhuast and stainless intakes.from summit. cost about 1300.00

[GofastRacer]

Another good choice!. wink

[Liberator TJ1984]

Have been in contact w/AFR . 345's will flow 400cfm out of box 357 if CNC'd will flow over 425+ .@ $1995.00 a pair with all best parts ,Ferria Valves .roller setup springs pretty good deal for the bucks.just have to use their stud girdle ,valves are canted 2*
..CNC are $ 3200.00
Gopherrr

[Blown 472]

I will look in the basement and find that article.
Some thing to ponder, if 78 was to build a non blown motor with his 454 and tunnel ram what would the options be??? Keep in mind he wants to make 700-750 hp.

[Ian]

I don't know much (i'm young and dumb) but if your on a budget and you already have a set of 990's I'd run them. I'm running 990's on my blower motor (fully ported and polished with bronze guides and drilled for the two extra bolts) and I just had them in the head shop for a valve job and I told my head guy I was thinking about buying aluminum heads. He flowed my heads and told me I wouldn't gain much, from what I understand the only down side, besides wieght, to the 990 is the exhaust port doesn't flow as well as some of the newer heads. Also your dealing with a blower motor so great flowing heads aren't as crucial as on a naturally aspirated motor. On the other hand aluminum heads are lighter, discipate heat better, and look cooler. I think it all depends on how much money you have to spend and where you want to spend it. But like I said above I don't know much and I 'm really only responding to this thread because I only need a couple more posts before I'm a triple digit member. :D

[GofastRacer]

Ian:
I don't know much (i'm young and dumb) but if your on a budget and you already have a set of 990's I'd run them. I'm running 990's on my blower motor (fully ported and polished with bronze guides and drilled for the two extra bolts) and I just had them in the head shop for a valve job and I told my head guy I was thinking about buying aluminum heads. He flowed my heads and told me I wouldn't gain much, from what I understand the only down side, besides wieght, to the 990 is the exhaust port doesn't flow as well as some of the newer heads. Also your dealing with a blower motor so great flowing heads aren't as crucial as on a naturally aspirated motor. On the other hand aluminum heads are lighter, discipate heat better, and look cooler. I think it all depends on how much money you have to spend and where you want to spend it. But like I said above I don't know much and I 'm really only responding to this thread because I only need a couple more posts before I'm a triple digit member. :D Ian, there's nothing wrong with 990's, that's what I'm using now, in fact from your description of yours, mine are very similar!.. What I'm saying is, if you have $2000 to spend on heads, iron or aluminum, the aftermarkets will deliver more power per dollar out of the box(with potential for more) than investing that much in 990's whether it be a blown or aspirated application, even if you alreday have a set laying around!.. wink

[Ian]

I'm sure you are right GofastRacer, like I said I was just trying to become a triple digit member. Now that I am I can stop poking my nose in topics I know nothing about... then again I wouldn't mind being a quadruple digit member

[GofastRacer]

Right on!... :D

[flat broke]

78Eliminator:
I can't wait.
Question: All the blocks like the 540's and up, are they all based off the 454 BB? Will my Dooley oil pan fit and if I get a blower for my current block, will it fit in the future when I get a REAL blower motor? Justin,
One of the common ways to get a 540 is to take a 502 block (standard is 4.470") and go .030 over. To this add a 4.250 stroke and bang, you have 540.7 (I think) cubic inches. In answer to your interchangeability question, I know that the World Big M block is 100% mark IV compatible so yes you could use your old oil pan, heads etc. I don't know what kind of internals you're running right now, but another option would be to keep your existing block, upgrade your crank right now to a quality piece with a 4.25 stroke. Then continue to run your 6.135 rod with a new high quality piston and bump your motor up to a 496 if you punch it .060. Then when you want to step up to a bigger block, your crank and rods are still useable for the 540" package.
There are lots of different ways you can go. Just try and plan the route that wont have you re'purchasing parts when you upgrade.
Good luck,
Chris