Show Me Your Plumbing

[novaguy]

Hey Jetters,
I am in need of your plumbing pictures for the water and fuel. I am restoring my boat since being stolen and would like to see how your set-up is. I know the route, but I'd like to see different set-ups. I am kinda confused on where to tee off the lines, where the hoses lay, etc. I am using all stainless lines with -an fittings. Your help and pics would be appreciated. My routing for the water is: Jet to block, back out to header logs. My headers are Lightnings and am running a Big Block Chevy.
Rob

[LakesOnly]

http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/350New_Motor_Front-med.jpg

[Taylorman]

Some people may not agree with the way I have mine but here it is. I think its a little cleaner rigging instead of using a t under the engine. I just put a t into one block inlet and a 90 in the other and put a piece of tubing between them. I don't see any difference in doing it this way vs a t and two lines from the t into the block. Heres the picture.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/161161DCP_2372-med.jpg

[LakesOnly]

I Like it! Clean and functional...
LO

[flat broke]

On my Spectra I run a -10 from the pressure regulator to an offshore staninless crossover with a large pipe inlet with an AN fitting. The water then comes out the water neck / divider to -10 to each Lightning. I tapped the lightning water manifold for pipe threads and used standard AN fittings for the connection there.
As for fuel, I run two 25 gal side tanks feeding -8 to a water seperator/filter for each tank, then onto an older Rex Fuel valve in the middle. From the valve I run -8 to a Clay Smith Mechanical pump, then -8 on up to the regulator, then -8 to the feeds on the carb. The only thing that might be changing is the introduction of a bypass regulator instead of the cheapo Holley deal. I'd show you some pics, but the motor has been out of the boat since October and I don't think it will be hitting the dyno/boat anytime in the immediate future.
Good luck with your setup,
Chris

[OMEGA_BUBBLE_JET]

Originally posted by Taylorman
Some people may not agree with the way I have mine but here it is. I think its a little cleaner rigging instead of using a t under the engine. I just put a t into one block inlet and a 90 in the other and put a piece of tubing between them. I don't see any difference in doing it this way vs a t and two lines from the t into the block. Heres the picture.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/161161DCP_2372-med.jpg
very nice Taylorman!!:) next time you make a trip to Houston maybe you could help me upgrade my rubber to stainless.:cool: the way you have it routed is totally functional and much better looking IMO. I think flow is not an issue with the huge pump hanging off the ass end.
Omega

[Taylorman]

I will be there Easter weekend. I'll look you up. Id like to meet Texasjet also. I'd love to see the work Dwayne did for him. He lives in Tomball? My brother in law lives there, right near tomball high school. I may be staying there.

[TexasJet]

Taylorman, I'll be in College Station Easter weekend. My wifes folks live there and we always go up there at Easter. The Saturday before Easter I will be on Lake Somerville. Are you bringing your boat?

[novaguy]

Great Pics guys...Keep em coming....I like the look of the hard lines. Lakes only, I noticed on your pic that the red hose coming off the jet is just laying below the motor and "T'd" off at the front. Is this how it's normally done or does it really matter and it's just personal preference?

[OMEGA_BUBBLE_JET]

Originally posted by Taylorman
I will be there Easter weekend. I'll look you up. Id like to meet Texasjet also. I'd love to see the work Dwayne did for him. He lives in Tomball? My brother in law lives there, right near tomball high school. I may be staying there.
texasjet lives in Katy which is west Houston. I thought you dealt in stainless fittings no? sent you a PM
Omega

[Aluminum Squirt]

I've been researching the hard lines and I have a few questions. Where do you get a 37 degree flaring tool so that you can use all the AN stuff? Or am I missing something and just use a 45 degree flaring tool and different hardware? From what I understand, you use the hard lines with tube nuts and tube sleeves and AN hose ends and it all comes together because everything is 37 degrees. Am I missing something?-Aluminum Squirt

[superdave013]

Originally posted by Aluminum Squirt
I've been researching the hard lines and I have a few questions. Where do you get a 37 degree flaring tool so that you can use all the AN stuff? Or am I missing something and just use a 45 degree flaring tool and different hardware? From what I understand, you use the hard lines with tube nuts and tube sleeves and AN hose ends and it all comes together because everything is 37 degrees. Am I missing something?-Aluminum Squirt
I got mine from Parker. But if I had it to do all over again I might get the one from Ridged because it goes to 1". Parkes only goes to 7/8"
Both make them in 37 and 45 degree.

[monkey rage frank]

I'll show you some pluming!!!!!!!!! but its hard to take pics with my wing in the way

[Aluminum Squirt]

Ya, ridgid is the one I found and only on line. My local Home Depot doesn't carry the 37 degree model. Is the aluminum tubing strong enough for all of my lines or is SS the way to go? Any difference in working with aluminum vs. SS? Do the same tools (aka bender, cutter, flaring) work for both types of material? I'm a little partial to aluminum for obvious reasons but I don't want to rupture a line and the aluminum is cheaper. Thanx for the input SD-Aluminum Squirt

[kachina_labala]

Is there a reason that no one uses copper and paint or polish & clear coat or just chrome it ? It seems easy to get and put together in any configuration?

[Taylorman]

Originally posted by Aluminum Squirt
Ya, ridgid is the one I found and only on line. My local Home Depot doesn't carry the 37 degree model. Is the aluminum tubing strong enough for all of my lines or is SS the way to go? Any difference in working with aluminum vs. SS? Do the same tools (aka bender, cutter, flaring) work for both types of material? I'm a little partial to aluminum for obvious reasons but I don't want to rupture a line and the aluminum is cheaper. Thanx for the input SD-Aluminum Squirt
The tubing I use is the thick shit they use in the oil and gas industry. You ain't flaring or bending this stuff with anything from home depot. I think its .035 thick. You need good benders. I have my flares done at a local power steering repair place. He has a hydraulic flaring tool. Im sure you can flare alum. with the rigid tools.

[BobS]

Originally posted by kachina_labala
Is there a reason that no one uses copper and paint or polish & clear coat or just chrome it ? It seems easy to get and put together in any configuration?
It is my understanding that copper doesn't handle vibration very well and is prone to fatigue and cracking.

[Taylorman]

Well I guarantee the stuff i have on my boat will never crack due to fatigue. Also its ss so i will never have to polish or paint it.

[Jungle Boy]

I like the stainless line, but was told by an old time racer not to use them, incase they are stepped on bent up in panic repairs during a race. I might just put them on my new pleasure boat. My brother is a instrument tech and has all the goods. Looks clean. The Imco exhaust is not on this boat anymore. They were only on for a quick water test.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/521/259F1010019-med.jpg

[MAXIMUS]

Jungle Boy that is a very clean & "functional" plumbing system! Somebody did there homework!:)

[Jungle Boy]

Originally posted by MAXIMUS
Jungle Boy that is a very clean & "functional" plumbing system! Somebody did there homework!:)
Thanks,
I kind of thought it was messy. This is a "before photo" I have since re-routed the MSD wires and cleaned up the water lines. Race boats don't like to look clutered up:D :D

[PLACECRAFT20]

Here is mine in braided. Sorry about the plug wires in the way.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/521/2524542-med.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/521/2524543-med.JPG

[fleetimus]

Another idea

[superdave013]

one thing I'm just gonna toss out there that I've learned from plumbing countless boats.
Try to keep the lines off the bottom of that boat and from rubbing other things. If you have a s.s. braided hose laying in the bottom of your hull or touching a stringer (or something else) it will act as a file over the years. I've seen them wear groves in hulls and motor plates just from vibration.
If you have a few hoses running together an easy and clean way to keep then seperated and away from each other is to put one big zip-tie around all of them and then put another one around the big one between each hose. When you tighten them all up the hoses won't touch and will look clean. You can tuck the ends of the zip ties inbetween the hoses so you don't scratch yourself on them.
If you look at the 3 hoses by the back of the head you can see what I mean. Black zip-ties hold up betterin the sun but I used the clear ones so they didn't stand out as much.
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/48jpnengine.jpg

[HotRod Sprint]

Cmon, lets see some more pics. I'm in the same boat, so to speak as Nova Guy.
Rod

[HotRod Sprint]

TTT

[novaguy]

Well, I guess many guys don't have pics of their plumbing. I went out today and bought all the hoses and fittings, so I will post pics when I am done. www.bonacoinc.com

[Unchained]

http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/504/220DSC02018-med.JPG
http://www.childsdale-ind-prop.com/fuelpumpdrive.jpg

[novaguy]

Well, I got up early today to do my fuel plumbing but I ran into some difficulties. I heard the -8AN hose is a bitch and quit after no success. I needed an extra hand, but of course everyone was busy. So.....onto the water plumbing I went. Man, what a difference. Install on the -10AN went a lot smoother. Here are some picks of what I got accomplished.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/351DSCF0171-med.JPG http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/351DSCF0172-med.JPG http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/351DSCF0173-med.JPG http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/351DSCF0174-med.JPG http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/351DSCF0176-med.JPG http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/351DSCF0177-med.JPG http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/351DSCF0179-med.JPG
The Hydraulic lines on the Place Diverter were done last week. The billet Fuel valve was purchased from Rex Marine as was the water inlets and outlet. I wonder if he gives discounts because I spent some cash there. Anyhow, hope you guys enjoy and keep the pics coming....

[TexasJet]

Here's my motor. Man this stuff is expensive but the Bling-Bling value is high.:) http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/523DCP_3595-med.jpg

[bottom feeder]

Nova Guy,
Here is some pics of my stuff.
Bottom feeder

[bottom feeder]

Lines running down stringer.
Bottom feeder

[HotRod Sprint]

Novaguy, that is starting to look good. How much did that billet valve set you back?
Rod

[hellbound]

Hey lakes only where is that red hose comming off your intake going?

[novaguy]

HotRod Sprint: The billet fuel valve is from Rex Marine and cost $169.00.

[BrendellaJet]

Originally posted by hellbound
Hey lakes only where is that red hose comming off your intake going?
Im guessing its going out the back of the boat. could be wrong though.

[HotRod Sprint]

Originally posted by novaguy
HotRod Sprint: The billet fuel valve is from Rex Marine and cost $169.00.
Hey, thanks man, I think for that price I will just use two ball valves this season.
Rod

[MarKist]

here try this !!!
http://tampabayjetboats.no-ip.com/bassett.html
Markist

[Squirtcha?]

one thing I'm just gonna toss out there that I've learned from plumbing countless boats.
Try to keep the lines off the bottom of that boat and from rubbing other things. If you have a s.s. braided hose laying in the bottom of your hull or touching a stringer (or something else) it will act as a file over the years. I've seen them wear groves in hulls and motor plates just from vibration.
If you have a few hoses running together an easy and clean way to keep then seperated and away from each other is to put one big zip-tie around all of them and then put another one around the big one between each hose. When you tighten them all up the hoses won't touch and will look clean. You can tuck the ends of the zip ties inbetween the hoses so you don't scratch yourself on them.
Where the heck were you a couple years when I was rigging my boat SD? Just look at what happened to my hoses! Tie wrapped together and rubbed clean through the stainless braid. I think one of these -10 AN oil lines has a pinhole leak in it too. Learned my lesson, that's for sure. They also rubbed the gelcoat off of the bottom of the boat in a couple places.
Just found this today when I pulled the motor out. The backside of the one on the left looks just like the one on the right. I put em in about two years ago.
http://www.jetheaven.us/photopost/data/500/19hosescropped.jpg

[TRG]

sorry so big! but this is the only one ive got of the plumbing.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/662todds_motor_002.jpg

[Some Kind Of Monster]

Bottom feeder,
Where did you get the brackets that hold the hose on your stringers?