painting bottom of boat and trailer

[dgie]

I need help, I need to do some work on the bottom of my boat and plan to use the bondo filler to remove any low spots and then repaint. There used to be a thread on this (where it is, not sure?) anyways I need to paint it and then paint the trailer. Any ideas on the type of paint to use on it and on the trailer. Thanks in advance.

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

Use seagoin' poxy putty. no bondo.... :yuk:
http://***boat.net/forums/showthread.php?t=108282

[dgie]

I also have a flair on the bottom at the transom, does this need to be grinded down? not sure if it is a factory flair. Also what kind of paint and primer? going to west marine tomorrow.

[Ken F]

Speedcoat will work great on covering your bottom repairs unless you just really want to paint it.
I've never heard of using Poxy-putty to fill the bottom! Seems to me that would be pretty hard to work wouldn't it? I've always used fibered bondo & glass for the deep spots.
Any good automotive paint/hardner system would work for your trailer.
Ken F

[beerjet]

The poxy-putty was not really hard for me to apply and sanded down really good, But then again I never used it to do any repairs to the bottom.

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

Speedcoat will work great on covering your bottom repairs unless you just really want to paint it.
I've never heard of using Poxy-putty to fill the bottom! Seems to me that would be pretty hard to work wouldn't it? I've always used fibered bondo & glass for the deep spots.
Any good automotive paint/hardner system would work for your trailer.
Ken F
I was just relaying what I was told. Here's what jeff wrote.....
"The best filler is 3m Premium grade filler, which is waterproof. 1/16" to 1/8" gap can be filled with either Duraglass or fiberglass mat and resin. Anything over 1/8" should be filled with fiberglass (not sure exact words, "mat, cloth?) "

[Ken F]

Ah, ok. 3m Premium grade filler is a type of bondo, and the Duraglass is a fibered filler. So we are on the same page!
Ken F

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

Ah, ok. 3m Premium grade filler is a type of bondo, and the Duraglass is a fibered filler. So we are on the same page!
Ken F
Yes sir;);)

[dgie]

Thanks for the response, I plan to use fiberglass cloth or mat on areas with a large gap. for the smaller gaps, I think I can mix up my own putty, with some resin and talc, looking stuff I have left over from the transom repair I did a couple of years ago. I am curious about the flair along the bottom at the transom though. I was going to grind it off, but not sure if it is factory. Any ideas????

[LynnsJet]

Resin & Talc was taught to me by an old psttern maker/fiberglass guru back in the 70's. It makes good filler. Cut up fiberglass mat is pretty cool too aka Tiger Hair.
Bondo absolutely does absorb water. That's why it does such a shiity job repairing rust on cars. It is like putting a water magnet in the patch. That's why the rust comes back so quickly.
L J

[dgie]

Thanks for the responses, any idea about the flair at the back by the transom, any idea if this may be factory, or?

[blown428fe]

I shot my trailer with white rustolium , thinned with mineral spirits in paint gun. 3-coats and came out mint.

[victorfb]

can you post a pic of this "flair"? give us a better idea of what your talking about.
rustolium paint works real well on a steel trailer and also is a rust prevention. but if you ever want a custom paint job , even years down the road, that rustolium will need to be removed completely. rustolium used a fish oil (shark oil) for its rust inhibiter. trying to spray an automotive paint, primer, or anything is almost impossible to make it stick. the shark oil never really seems to dry.
ive used poxy putty to fill small dime size repairs in strakes that held up better than the resin mix. one thing to remember is that its best to paint over the repair so the edge of the putty doesnt start lifting from the water hitting it.

[Squirtcha?]

Thanks for the responses, any idea about the flair
at the back by the transom, any idea if this may be factory, or?
I'm not clear on the terminology here. If you're talking about a hook(click here) (http://jetboat.homestead.com/Kidsriding.html)
You'll want to get rid of it, but the pros will tell you, "NEVER GRIND A
HOOK AWAY!" Instead, build up the low areas to meet the high spots.
If it is similar to what you saw on my pages it was NOT put there purposely
by the manufacturer. They did it alright, but it isn't on purpose nor is it desired.
rustolium used a fish oil (shark oil) for its rust inhibiter. trying to spray an automotive paint, primer, or anything is almost impossible to make it stick. the shark oil never really seems to dry.
Ah ha that explains why it works. I've never seen a rusty shark.