Help Drunk Tank Convert his 455 from points to HEI

[Drunk tank]

Thanks to Dirk I now have an HEI distributor in my hands. But now comes the issue of installing the thing. I have no idea whats steps to take in installing a new distributor (other than pull old one out and put new one in). I realize that certain things need to be lined up correctly and that the plug wires have to go on in a certain order so the plugs fire in the correct order. but like I sad... I have no idea of how to do this and get it setup right.
Then comes the issue of modifying the wiring, anyone got a wiring diagram for an olds HEI? I'm sure with that I can figure out what needs to go where.
As for the timing and all that, one of my buddies has a light and is gonna help me set that part up... kinda the last thing to do and shouldnt be an issue (unless I screw up the install of the distributor and everything is 180 degrees off."
As for having someone else do it? Aint gonna happen. I can do it no prob if I have a set of directions (pictures are even better ;) ). Second, I'd like to know how to do it just so I know how... call me weird but I like to learn. The only reason I dont know how to do this is I was cursed with EFI vehicles my whole life that dont have distributors per say (well at least like this sense)
Any help you can all offer me would be very appreciated. I wanna go rock out with my cock out on the lake this weekend. :D
Thanks everyone,
Ryan :beer:

[cyclone]

make sure that you have the correct distributor for the old's motor. i'm unsure if an HEI distributor is the same for all GM's or not. probably not.
HEI wiring is simple. just a tach lead and 12-volt ignition lead. the plug on the distributor should be labled.
you'll be able to remove the old distributor and balast resistor from the boat.

[Drunk tank]

Originally posted by cyclone
make sure that you have the correct distributor for the old's motor. i'm unsure if an HEI distributor is the same for all GM's or not. probably not.
HEI wiring is simple. just a tach lead and 12-volt ignition lead. the plug on the distributor should be labled.
you'll be able to remove the old distributor and balast resistor from the boat.
Well I got this one from Diggler who had it on his 455.... so I'm fairly sure itll work just fine on mine as well

[MudPumper]

Maybe your autoparts store chick will come install it for you??:D :D

[CrdStang]

Ok, first, locate your #1 plug wire on your existing distributor, pull the wire off the cap and mark the terminal "1".
Mark the base of the distributor (someplace other than the cap, 'cause you're gonna take it off) directly inline with the #1 terminal on the cap. Liquid paper works great, a liquid paper pen works even better.
Take the cap off the distributor and turn the engine with a socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt. Turn it until the tip of the rotor is perfectly inline with the mark you made on the base.
Your engine is now aproximately at #1 Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke. Look at your primitive old points distributor guts and laugh at them.
Now get out your new distributor. Hold it up next to the engine and orient it approximately the same as the old one. Mark the terminal on the cap that is the closest match to the mark on the old distributor base (#1).
Mark the base of the new distributor under the #1 terminal, just like you did the old one.
Remove the cap from the new distributor. One at a time, starting with #1, remove the plug wires from your old cap and install them on the new one in the exact same order. Right about this time you'll probably realize that your old plug wires have "normal" ends which don't fit the HEI terminals on your new distributor. Curse at GM engineers. Order up a new set of plug wires from Summit, then go put your old distributor back together in case you want to use your boat this weekend.
After you get the new wires, continue:
Remove the hold down clamp and pull old distributor from the engine. It may take some wiggling, twisting, or light encouragement with a hammer. About the only seriously bad thing that can happen here is the oil pump drive shaft pulling halfway out with the distributor, then falling back down into the oil pan. If this happens, track down the guy who built your engine and work over his knee caps with a baseball bat for not putting the retaining collar on the oil pump shaft (extremely rare, don't fear it).
Take the new distributor in hand and line up the tip of the rotor with the mark you made on the base. Apply a coat of moly grease (if you're maticulous), any kind of grease (if you like to act like you care), oil (you really don't care, but don't want to do this again), or nothing (you f*cking slob, someone needs to take away your tools) to the distributor gear. While you're there you might spread a bit on the o-ring that seals the distributor to the block.
Install the new distributor into the engine. You'll probably have to wiggle it a bit to get the oil pump shaft to engage. Orient it approximately the same as the old one was (by the location of the #1 mark on the base). Now notice how the rotor tip turned it's self way far away from the mark as the gear engaged and you pushed the distributor in? Remember that. (hah!)
Now pull the distributor back out until you can turn the rotor, turn it back 2x amount as it turned it's self, in the oposite direction, so it should be exactly on the mark with the distributor all the way in. Drop it back in, see if it's reasonably close, like less than a whole gear tooth off. You can rotate the base of the distributor until the mark lines up with the rotor tip to dial it in.
Now slap the cap back on and all you have left to worry about is wiring the the power supply/tach and stuff up. I'll let someone else help you with that. Oh, you do want to make sure that the #1 mark on the base does actually line up with the #1 on the cap.
When you get it running, get your buddy's timing light and check it, the timing is probably off a bit.
For my next trick, I'll fill 10 pages on how to set your plug gap...

[fourspeednup]

Do what cyclone said as far as hooking it up---super easy, even you could do it;)
Here's an article from chevi hipo on intake manifold swaps, there are a couple pics and some instructions on distributor removal and replacement in there as well so you don't try to make your engine run backwards:D
Edit: Or you could do what the hawaiian said;)
(damn slow typing)

[CrdStang]

Originally posted by fourspeednup
Edit: Or you could do what the hawaiian said;)
(damn slow typing)
Don't feel too bad, there were 0 replies when I started that post..

[fourspeednup]

Originally posted by CrdStang
Don't feel too bad, there were 0 replies when I started that post..
Post, more like a friggen volume:D

[Drunk tank]

Originally posted by fourspeednup
super easy, even you could do it;)
Kinda like how you did your intake manafold gaskek eh? :p

[Drunk tank]

Okay... had to read that first part a few times to get it, now I think I'm golden. But what cylinder on this fatty is number 1 ? :confused:
As for getting auto parts girl to do it.... I went and picked up my new plug wires today and she was there. We chatted it up a bit and latter tonight (round 10:30) were meeting in the design studio. I gotta try and get the last part of my senior design project finished and she has some autocad to do. funny thing is shes using 2004 and I learned on 2002... so shes all "I'll teach you how to use it" and threw in a sinister wink... :eek: good things may come from this. BTW.... I'll try and score a pic for you all tonight :D

[MudPumper]

How much you wanna bet that design project doesn't get finished.:D

[Drunk tank]

Originally posted by MudPumper
How much you wanna bet that design project doesn't get finished.:D
It will... I'm a very focussed individual. OR MAYBE... I'll just go a little early and get most of what I need to done so then when she comes I wont have much to do and can **** around :D

[cyclone]

so did anyone ever get to see pics of the fabled auto parts store chick?:D

[fourspeednup]

Originally posted by Drunk tank
Kinda like how you did your intake manafold gaskek eh? :p
At least the thing still floated:D

[diggler]

Originally posted by Drunk tank
Well I got this one from Diggler who had it on his 455.... so I'm fairly sure itll work just fine on mine as well
I guarantee it's for an Olds 455 as it used to be on mine until I installed a MSD 6AL.
DT, watch for over-revving if you jump a wake. that's how I blew up my last engine and decided on the MSD with the rev limiter. Follow the directions and you should be OK. The only wires you have connecting to it is a hot wire from the ignition switch and a tach lead.

[Drunk tank]

Originally posted by diggler
I guarantee it's for an Olds 455 as it used to be on mine until I installed a MSD 6AL.
DT, watch for over-revving if you jump a wake. that's how I blew up my last engine and decided on the MSD with the rev limiter. Follow the directions and you should be OK. The only wires you have connecting to it is a hot wire from the ignition switch and a tach lead.
Is the reason it over reved because suddenly you pump wasnt suckin water at that point and there was no force to hold the revs at a certain point? At least I think that makes sense

[CrdStang]

Being a Ford guy myself, wasn't sure how the cylinders were numbered when I started my build. As it turns out, those freaks over at GM created this mess:
FRONT
1 2
3 4
5 6
7 8
REAR
A dirty little secret..it doesn't matter which cylinder you for the distributor swap, TDC #1 is just industry standard.
I've got mains restrictors installed so far and I'm going with a 8 quart or larger pan. Got ARP rod bolts too, and camfered oil holes in the crank. Wonder how much RPM mine will take.
I'm used to engines that take abuse..you know..Fords..

[diggler]

Originally posted by Drunk tank
Is the reason it over reved because suddenly you pump wasnt suckin water at that point and there was no force to hold the revs at a certain point? At least I think that makes sense
Yep, I "aired" out the jet and braced myself with my foot on the gas pedal and hit probably around 8000-9000rpms. I learned my lesson about being more aware of my surroundings as I certainly didn't intend to hit it that hard. No load on impeller=max rpms

[Drunk tank]

Cool.... got it installed yesterday... just gotta hook up the ignition and and tach then set the timing when I get some time later this week. As for the ignition wire.... is that just a 14ga wire that runs all the way to my key and hooked to the leed that will only supply it with power when the key is turned to the on position? BTW.... does the Tach have to be hooked up? Just curious... cause my tach is broken as is.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1551P5010240.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1551P5010241.JPG

[diggler]

Originally posted by Drunk tank
Cool.... got it installed yesterday... just gotta hook up the ignition and and tach then set the timing when I get some time later this week. As for the ignition wire.... is that just a 14ga wire that runs all the way to my key and hooked to the leed that will only supply it with power when the key is turned to the on position? BTW.... does the Tach have to be hooked up? Just curious... cause my tach is broken as is.
Don't worry about the tach if it's broken. You'll definitely want one that works so you don't blow up the engine over-revving.
Whatever you do, be careful how you hook up the power lead from the battery. I suggest not doing it from the alternator as the alternator has an electronic "latch" that will keep the motor running even after you turn it off.
As for the ignition wire, you're right, you will want it connected conveniently so the motor only runs when it is "on".
Let me know how it goes. It looks good on the engine.

[Drunk tank]

Originally posted by diggler
It looks good on the engine.
Witth the birdsnest that is my plug wires :D
What wire size did ya use? I was planning on using 14ga.from the power block to the key and then from the key to the dist.

[diggler]

Use 10AWG from the battery to the distributor, and then 12 or 14 AWG from the ignition on/off.
If I'm wrong and anyone reading this knows better, please say so! :D

[Drunk tank]

10ga??? WTF!
There isnt a 10ga wire anywhere in my tug boat.
Tell me if this looks right... thinking maybe the 14ga should be 12 ga.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1551Untitled-1-med.jpg

[diggler]

I think you're right. It's been so long since I had it wired up. You may still want 12AWG because of the coil in the distributor.