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RACER52
05-03-2004, 04:42 PM
I am wondering how everyone is getting their oil temp. I cant get above 180 when running. (hard) The water temp isnt getting above 100. if that.
How should it be plumbed??
Do people run those moroso restricters under the t-stat housing?
I belive my water flow is like this
w/p to fuel cooler
fuel cooler to oil/powersteering cooler al in one
oil cooler to crossover
engine out of t-stat housing to exhaust
Thanks
racer

Infomaniac
05-03-2004, 05:10 PM
T stat stuck open or missing sounds like.

HP350SC
05-04-2004, 06:56 AM
Racer- It is because you used the restrictor that whipple sent you. I sent my crossover back to Whipple so they could weld a threaded bung to it. Then I will put back on the brass tee with spring loaded check balls (that originally came with the HP500) into the crossover. Next I will have to get a 120 deg. t-stat and remove the restrictor. The 2 extra hoses from the tee will then be routed to the exhaust manifolds, (which Whipple had me cap off). I believe the t-stat housing hoses go to the risers and the brass tee hoses go to the lower ex. man. fittings.

RACER52
05-04-2004, 09:36 AM
there isnt any restrictor in there at all. Nothing came with the housing.
So should I run a restrictor or a t-stat. If I run a t-stat do I need to re-plumb the water to the exhaust??
Racer

HP350SC
05-04-2004, 11:42 AM
You can have my restrictor if you want it. Might be OK for your lake water temps.

RACER52
05-04-2004, 12:07 PM
hp350=
thanks for the offer!! Is it simular to the moroso restricters? if so I have all of them. What is the hole size??
Racer

HP350SC
05-04-2004, 12:09 PM
5/8 off the top of my head, which was the minimum size Dustin recommended if I remember correctly. I'll check later.

HP350SC
05-04-2004, 02:28 PM
Yep it's 5/8.
You will probably end up running a t-stat setup like I described though. Cast iron blocks are not that forgiving to be running that cold with boost. (Not to mention oil condensation too). For example, the way my setup was we did a full "warmup", then a WOT pass 30 seconds, shut down and immediately checked spark plugs and they were lukewarm. I'm not taking any chances, I'm going the t-stat and bypass route.

Rexone
05-06-2004, 03:05 AM
The 3 port thermo housings and bypass crossovers pictured at the bottom of this page work well. Any or all of this stuff is available separately.
Thermostat / Crossover combinations. (http://www.rexmar.com/page161.html)

Craig
05-11-2004, 10:51 AM
I run a crossover, so the water makes one pasa and then out the back :) Never see much indication on that water temp gauge. The shop I use recommended that set up with an oil thermostat to truley monitor temps. The thermostat keeps the oil at 215 degrees so any condensation will be burnt off. On a hard run it may get to 240-250 but cools right down at cruise. BTW, my temp sender for the oil is in the sump of the pan.

RACER52
05-11-2004, 11:24 AM
Well I put the 5/8 restrictor in and the only change was more water pressure. The oil temp may have even dropped.
My oil temp sendor is in the sump of the pan also. Is this a good place for temp pick up?
Racer

HP350SC
05-11-2004, 11:35 AM
I'll let you know how my setup works.....FINALLY got Whipple to ship my crossover today. Jeesh they are busy! They welded bung free of charge, great company!

RACER52
05-11-2004, 03:14 PM
hp350-
post a pic when your done so I can see what your talkin about. I havent seen a blower set-up with the stock spring ball dealio's.
Sounds like another $$500.00 in fittings and hoses???
Racer

Robbie Racer
05-11-2004, 04:01 PM
Racer, both my engine builders have recommended running the water temps in the 100 degree range to help prevent detonation. Steve Schmidt also recommended the same thing on my normally aspirated race motor. I have been doing that now for 3 years on my blower motors and haven't seen any negative effect due to that. My oil temp in the big motor rarely gets over 175 but the Peto motor does climb up to 250 or so if I stay in it for very long. I'm not sure why it runs hotter as I use the same oil cooler and plumbing on both of them. Also both sensors are in the pan. I have water exits on the back of my heads that I dump overboard so I can move a lot of water through the motor and keep the heads from getting too hot both front and back. I think this helps me run higher boost pressures on pump gas without detonation. Good luck!

RACER52
05-12-2004, 10:47 AM
sounds like I need to stay in it for a while and see what the oil temp does.
with the w/t low I guess the consensis says 100-110 is A ok.
I will post how the #'s look after this weekends poker run.
thanks for all the input. Guys like me depend on the experiences of others
Racer

HP350SC
05-12-2004, 08:53 PM
With our water temp. up here, I was well under 100 deg. and spark plugs were barely warm after a full throttle pass...no good.

Krumbsnatcher
05-17-2004, 03:23 PM
I do not even look at my water temp gauge, my only concern is how my oil temps are doing.
I can run up to the sandbar where the water is cooler and only show 120 degrees but my oil temps will show 160 on a hard run all the way up to 190.
I would say get the oil temps under control.

RACER52
05-17-2004, 03:55 PM
I think its all good. This weekends poker run was the first time the boat was ran really hard. The water temp never came up but the oil temp would run up to 230-240 on a really long run. The first stop on the poker run used a full tank of fuel and the temp came up to 240.
I wont worry about it anymore.
its all good!!!!!
Racer

boatnam2
05-17-2004, 08:10 PM
im not running a blower motor but a teague 620hp and my water temp is always around 100 if i run reall hard my oil temp gets up to around 160 usaaly runs around 130 warning light goes on a 190.

RACER52
05-18-2004, 10:08 AM
warning lilght at 190 sounds low. Oil doesnt burn the condensation out at 180-190. But maybe without a blower it is better for low oil temp???

HP350SC
05-18-2004, 08:55 PM
Just an update, I am getting pissed with Whipple, I still have not seen my crossover yet:mad: Sent in before May 4th. I saw on a receipt they were drop shipping it from Teague?? Maybe they decided not to weld in the bung and just send me one already made. In any case, boating season is short in Oregon and I am being held up completing my boat.
Will attempt to reach Dustin tomorrow and see what gives.

RACER52
05-19-2004, 01:51 PM
I ordered all my whipple stuff direct from teague!!!
Got all of it in 2 days
just an FYI
Racer

HP350SC
05-19-2004, 03:46 PM
Well the usual, Dustin wasn't there so I left my call back number at 9 a.m. No call today. I do realize they are busy but maybe they should look into getting Dustin some help. This is b/s. It does not take a month to weld a bung on a crossover. Granted he is not charging me, but I think after spending 6K on a blower kit it should be engineered properly for your area. I will call Teague tomorrow and see if they know what's up, or just buy the damned thing myself.:mad:

RACER52
05-19-2004, 04:41 PM
I feel ya, the blowers (plural) both had torn IAC valves when I bought mine and he charged me to replace them. not cheap either.
He also forgot to tell me that I had to make iac motor manifolds for the air bypass system. After trying not to make something hookie I called and he said "oh we have those in stock for the single blower deal and you can buy 2" more $$$$$
I spent alot of $$$ for a kit that wouldnt even make a single blower work let alone 2.
Some day he'll not be so busy and has some deals to make me!!!!!
I'm still happy with the Whipple but they could get some help and get their shit together!!!!
Racer

Infomaniac
05-19-2004, 05:21 PM
Teague does a lot if not all of their stainless fab stuff.
You paid how much for that kit ? :D

HP350SC
05-19-2004, 08:55 PM
6K+!:o :D

HP350SC
05-21-2004, 09:31 AM
Well, I called Teague yesterday. They had just gotten my crossover that week. They said they would call me back. No call, but part arrived this morning! yee hah

RACER52
05-21-2004, 11:06 AM
:D :D :D :D
get that thing in the water!!!

HP350SC
05-21-2004, 04:48 PM
Info- Thanks for the heads up on Teague. Better to go straight to the source:)
Racer- I am really looking forward to partying with you guys and doing some good old fashioned racing! Somebody has got to bring a digital camcorder so we can get some decent video.

HP350SC
05-24-2004, 05:35 PM
Racer52- Here's what I did to get my temp. at 120 deg. Installed 120 deg t-stat in housing. Sent the crossover in and had them weld a bung on top (they mistakenly used a 3/8 npt) Adapted the brass Merc. tee(3/4 npt) with the spring loaded check balls into the bung. The hoses from the tee go to the lower exhaust manifolds. Routed t-stat housing hoses to risers. Started and ran, dead on 120 deg. and no fluctuation ( at least on the hose). I'm going boating tomorrow!

RACER52
05-25-2004, 09:43 AM
hp=thanks for the pic. I'm so tired of working on my boat after this last year that changing anything sounds like no fun. I'm not too worried about the temp anymore after the poker run. With the boost I'm running the only thing I wanted was oil temp, and I've got it. I just wasnt running the boat long enough to get there. 240 degree oil temp is all I need.
Cant wait to start the party,
Racer

HP350SC
05-25-2004, 10:38 AM
YYYYYYYYYYEP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!