block prep ???

[h2ojet001]

Finally got the block back from the machine shop (1 month). Has anyone ever used simple green to wash the block or should I just stick with soap and hot water? Is the procedure to wash the block and passages with soap /hot water and clean the cylinder walls with lacquer thinner then coat the cyl walls with oil and spray the remaining machined surfaces with wd-40 and blow dry everything real well. let me know if I missed anything. Thanks
Barry

[Nucking futs]

did your machinist not hot tank it after the work?If not clean the hell out of it and check every little nook and crannie to make sure you get all the chips an such out.If you are going to paint it after then use brake cleen to rinse off the block and then prep for paint.I would put a light coat of oil in the cyl. bores and lifter bores and also on anything that is raw.

[shaun]

When you wash that thing dry it as fast as possible, i mean seriously that shit will insta-rust in like minutes (maybe even seconds). I would recommend cleaning it in sections, make sure you have your air compressor pumped up and ready to blow dry it. Clean the cylinders separately too and oil them immediately!
This was my block when i got it back from the machinest!
http://www.reitanfamily.com/gallery/Backfrommachineshop
and this was 5 minutes after i washed it
http://www.reitanfamily.com/gallery/ErrWTF

[h2ojet001]

the block looks pretty clean now but I still have clean out all the water passages and do a final cleaning of the cyl walls. Other than degreasing the outside of the block what other procedures must be done before painting and has anyone ever used simple green cleaner to degrease.
Barry

[shaun]

i used laquir thinner that i poored into a emtpy spray bottle and brake parts cleaner. I dont know about simple green.

[CARLSON-JET]

I just want to state a small thing here . this is the opertune time to see how good of a machine shop you have. I'm presuming the cam bearings and gallery plugs were installed by them already. if it's possible, check any oil galleries you can, for this is the most critical part of any block prep when it comes to cleaning it . shinny painted blocks with chunk laiden galleries spell trouble. this is my test of machine shops .. many failed . why? because they left these chunks prior to installing the cam bearings and gallery plugs. it's almost imposible to reclean the oil galleries without chunks making their way into the the small passages just prior to the cam bearing oil holes. I've even had a shop (napa, lol) literally not pull gallery plugs leaving (for the lack of a better description) a gallery sized turd in the passages in the back of the block. R.B.

[GofastRacer]

When you get a block hot tanked, it's exacly that and only that. They do not go thru the passages with a brush and wash it down unless you want them to do it and you will pay extra for them to do it!. That is why you never have them put the cam bearings in until you're ready for final assembly. Besides by the time you're done all the detailing and machining on the block, it will need a thorough cleaning again anyways then you put the cam bearings in and all the plugs. I use Super Clean or equivalent and run a brush thru all the passages and then flush it with a high power gun with air and water. I keep a lint free rag and WD close by, as soon as I'm done washing it I wipe down all machined surfaces with WD, the rest can flash rust since I use Rustoleum to paint the block and heads and it works better if there's a film of rust on it!..

[seho]

A good degreaser is made by ZEP called 'Aerosolve II'. Spray on any oily surface and it cleans it great and then runs off and evaporates. I use it a lot to spot clean stuff. (Don't breathe it) Doesn't seem to leave any residue of any kind. Paint is still sticking to my block really well.

[Nucking futs]

I agree with the cleaning out all the oil passages with a wire brush and air nozzel.Just had my block done and i did the cam brgs myself and i found some nice sized metal chunks in the oil passage to the cam brgs.Take your time and pull all the plugs out and clean,clean,clean.Iwas just wondering if he had it hot tanked cuz i had mine done and there is no grease or oil on it and is spotless,but hey you get what you pay for i guess.65 bucks to hot tank aint to bad if the tank works good.

[h2ojet001]

When I got the block back the cam bearings and new oil galley plugs were installed. I asked the machinist if they cleaned and hot tanked again after boring and decking and he said they did. But now I am wondering if I should remove the oil plugs double check the oil passages. If I do this with the cam bearings in will I damage the bearings in any way?
Barry

[cstraub]

Final clean before pre-assembly cleaning should be done before the cam bearings are installed along with galley plugs. We always used Dawn or someother soap with a degreaser in a jet cabinet. As soon as you get it rinsed hit it with WD 40 or some other rust prohibitor. Then the bearings should be installed.
During assembly cleaning, use a lint free rag to wipe down all the machined surfaces. Tranny fluid is good for this. DO NOT USE RED RAGS TO DO THIS. . .THE LINT WILL FILL THE FILTER.
Chris

[adsala]

I would be very weary about using a wire brush around any part of the block. I found a broke off wire that made its way through out most of my crankshaft leaving it's little mark all the way! I use the long pipe cleaner like bristle brushes to run through the oil passages now.
I would not even use a power wire brush wheel within 20 feet either. Wires can fly off and end up right in a crankshaft oiling hole! Cover your engine when wire brushing. I learned the hard way.
Dean