ss bolts

[victorfb]

id like to get some input on useing stainless steel bolts for the motor mounts on a 4 point (old style) aluminum mounting system.
almost all the bolts are 3/8" . the ones that go through the stringers and mounting pads(2 bolts), then the 1/2" thick aluminum plate is attached to the pads with 2 more bolts, then the plate is attached to the motor with 4, 1/2" bolts in front of the block. the rear bell housing is the same way (except use 3/8" to the block). i have a bunch of SS socket head (allen head) bolts that would look awsome, but are they strong enough? i used oil on the threads and SS nylock nuts, and tried not to do my hercules impression when torqueing them down.

[Mohavekid]

I've used stainless for motor mounting in the past.
I had no problems, use anti-sieze or the stainless tends to gall.
I torqued mine to about 60 ft/lbs. Too much more and you can crush the stringers.

[Rexone]

SS should be fine Victor. Use anti-seize and do not use Air Impact Wrenches on SS. Invitation for galling. :)

[hack job]

i use them on my rail kit and they work great , thought eh ones that came with my ride plate sheared off this weekend the ones that mount the end to the cradelso i lost a few shims out ther some were;)

[HammerDown]

SS on the front of a 3 point mount, 4 bolts per side...think their strong enough?

[Rexone]

I would go with it hammer. It takes alot of force to shear off a bolt sideways, even stainless. That is assuming they are tight and not "overtight". Overtightening stainless can certainly lead to its failure. Snug em up good and call it a day using nylocs so they cannot loosen up. You're also talking about 4 3/8 dia bolts here. It would take alot of force to shear that off.

[victorfb]

thanks guys. i will stay with the SS bolts. they look awsome on there. i used nylocks on all that called for nuts. i for the life of me couldnt find my anti seize, but i used some royal purple oil and they went on nice and smooth. also made sure to not do the hercules impression and over tighten to a stretch. id rather check em after a few and tighten them than have to look around under the motor for the head of the bolt that snapped off. tomorrow i will pick up some anti seize and re-install the ones that go into the block of the motor. thanks again for the reasurance. :D

[Chris J]

Be sure to use bolts made of 304 or 316 stainless. The 400 series bolts can rust. With some elbow grease you can get a 304 series to polish up like chrome.
Can't stress enough the need for anti seize. My old job that was all we used was SS hardware (dam I miss the finge benifits of that job, don't miss all the chemicals though). Once a nut or bolt gall up your only option is to grind it off. Which in certain locations can be ugly, and if its a tapped hole you're SCREWED because its almost impossible to drill out.

[victorfb]

i have no idea on how to tell the differance between the 304, 316, or the 400 series. i basically stick a magnet to it and if there is any reaction at all i dont use it. i figure the pure stainless wont react to a magnet. am i wrong? how do you know what grade SS it is? and the galling is definatly a bummer. once it starts , thats it. break the bolt. thats why i will re-install all the ones that go into the block with anti sieze.

[Chris J]

Usually its stamped on the head where the grade mark would be. The magnet trick works if they are not marked. A magnet will attract 400 series SS. But not a 300 series.
Sound like you already got that part figured out. :D