Who is running a BBF ?

[riverbound]

I started tearing my motor down to rebuild and am curious what combos everyone is running and what kind of numbers they are seeing. From what I have seen so far my block has been bored .030, it had a good cam in it but it is now toast. as are most of the bearings. The intake manifold is stock as are the heads. I want to make sure that I do it right the first time.
the boat is a 1976 spectra 18. the pump is a berk E pump just rebuilt w/ "A" impeller, Log exhaust.
Any help you guys could give me would be appreciated.

[BigBoyToys]

Try PM'ing TopCat. He has a BBF that was built by Manzer and it's got all sorts of off the wall parts in it and supposedly seeing good numbers with it. Myself, all I know about them is that I'd rather have a BBC;) :D

[460 jus getn it]

im building my bbf hopefully this weekend. i have a 460 .30 over forged pistons stock rods. dove-c heads fully ported roller rockers, cam is 230@.50 .543 lift 110 lobe sep, stealth intake with a 800 double pumper, bassett headers dry of course. its going in a 18ft kachina with a berkeley 12jb with a diverter and a b cut impeller. hope this lends a helping hand 460

[Ken F]

First off, post up some head #'s and Engine #'s. That is the best place to start. Look for a number on your heads such as C8VE, or D0VE.
C=6
D=7 so, DO ='70, C8='68
V= Lincoln division
E=engine factory
Hopefully you have heads pre-'73. they breathe a lot better.
Post up some numbers, we will go from there. What do you want to do with your boat? Max speed, good ski-boat, cruzer?
Ken F

[riverbound]

OK I will get the #s tonight and post them tomorrow.

[moneysucker]

Rubber Ducky is now running a BIG ford and Fry Jet has always had good luck with them.

[SPECTRABRENT]

You may want to talk to Hackjob about the BBF that is in his Spectra 19, it runs OK:D.
Brent

[thedroid]

I am running a +.030 1970 429 SCJ 4-bolt main block with stock crank, DOOE-R heads, ARP Studs, Comp Cams Pro Magnum roller rockers, guide plates, and 3/8 Pro Magnum pushrods. The cam is a Comp Extreme Marine XM 278 H with a Comp double roller. Pistons are Forged Speed-Pro flat tops. I have just installed a Weiand Stealth but still have a Holley 750 Vac Sec carb.
I am running an old Mallory Dual point that seems to work well so far. I feel that the weak links in my current set-up are Carb, Logs, and ignition, so I plan to upgrade to an 850 Sea-Demon, MSD, and stainless jacketed tube headers as finances will allow. I think that should liven things up a bit. This is all spinning a berk je with a hydraulic Place diverter and loader.
Good luck with your build.:)

[AmericanThunder1]

I have a BBF fairly fresh I bored mine .30 over to get the lip of the top of the cylinder walls. If you are already .30 over you might check your cyl. walls if you can feel a lip or if it feels rough you need to hone or bore again depending on how bad it is. Check around with some of these other guys on how far you can bore a BBF or whats best.
I did some checking around on best intakes and I got a crap load of response for the stealth with an 850 double pumper. But there again that depends on how radical of an engine you are going to build:cool: Good luck with your project the end is very rewarding:D

[hack job]

my ford runs pretty damn good, it dynoed at 735 and it moves myspectra 19 around at 89. its a 501 ford with 10.2: compression and blue thunder heads. i love it;) ther rest is secret:D

[riverbound]

OK, here is what I got
Block=d1ve-6015-a2b
crank=2yabc
pistons=trw l-2443 030
heads=d3vea2a
carb=cant find model# but I was told it is 750 or 700 DP
I want the boat to run on pump gas and I want reliability. there are no ridges in the cylinder walls so I shouldn't have to bore it out. the main problem was the cam wich seemd to have a lot of wear on one of the lobes and the rod bearings were shot. The boat has a newly blueprinted E pump with a loader.

[Petrofied]

WHO IS RUNN'IN A BBFORD............:( The guys that can't afford a good BBChevy. I know It cost money to convert..... Headers, rail kit, starter and the like, I said it. NO FORD $ FOR $ WILL RUN WITH A CHEVY ..... (FACT)! Iv'e seen good runnin fords but it takes UNCLE SAM'S DOLLAR X2 to make it happen. MR.P's $.02 :(

[roostwear]

Originally posted by riverbound
OK, here is what I got
Block=d1ve-6015-a2b
crank=2yabc
pistons=trw l-2443 030
heads=d3vea2a
carb=cant find model# but I was told it is 750 or 700 DP
I want the boat to run on pump gas and I want reliability. there are no ridges in the cylinder walls so I shouldn't have to bore it out. the main problem was the cam wich seemd to have a lot of wear on one of the lobes and the rod bearings were shot. The boat has a newly blueprinted E pump with a loader.
You have alost exactly what I have. My D3VEs are mildly ported, cam is 230@.050, 543 lift, 110lc. The 2443s are dished/forged that will net about 8.5:1 with the D3s. I'm running a Stealth with a Proform converted 750DP, and a MPD rebuilt E pump without a loader (not for long) . It's in an 83 Advantage open bow 18', and last weekend I GPSed it at 65.5 mph. The good news is with only 8.5:1, it'll last forever and always cranks and lights off quick. After the loader, I'll be swapping the D3s for a set of C8/9/D0VE heads to get the compression up.

[Ken F]

>OK, here is what I got
Block=d1ve-6015-a2b
crank=2yabc
pistons=trw l-2443 030
heads=d3vea2a
carb=cant find model# but I was told it is 750 or 700 DP<
Riverbound,
Okay, you got a good beginning. The weakest link in your set-up are the heads, but they will do. I would definatly suggest porting the exaust side at least.
You have '73 Lincoln heads. Unfortunatly '73 was when they had to begin to comply with emission laws, and the heads don't breathe as well as the earlier ones. The Thermatic air boss is huge in the exaust ports,and very restrictive but it can be removed.
For a mild application, porting the exaust side only is acceptable.
If you don't feel comfortable with porting them yourself, have it done.
Since you are going to have to have your engine bored anyway, I"d go back to at least 10/1 compression. On a BBF you can run a little higher compression than a Chev and still not ping. 10.5/1 is what mine is, and it runs great on pump gas. I always try and run 93, but sometimes it's just not available and it seems to do okay on 89.
Going with the larger SCJ valves would be a good idea too, if in budget.
The absoulute BIGEST "wake it up" is to go with a 68-72 timing chain and gears. In '73 they retarded the timing in the chain & gears by 4 degrees. If you get a set for 68-72, they will be straight up timing, and will really make a noticable difference.
THe bottom end of a BBF is plenty strong, so don't worry about that. If you can find a set of truck rods for it, they are a little beefier on the bottom end.
The Weiand Stealth seems to work about the best for a BBF. A 750 double pumper works well. On Desk top dyno going from a 750>850 doen't make a noticable difference. I know a lot of people will argue this point, but I've tried both and the 850 only seems to use more fuel, doesn't make any performance difference.
On a Cam, let us know what you intend to do as far as your heads & valves, then can plug some #'s into DTD and come up with a good one for your app.
Ken F

[OkieDave]

I run BBF in all but one of my boats. The one with the chevy is by far the slowest. The chevy guys all have to use superchargers to try and keep up. they all have to have four bolt mains, head studs, steel cranks, and all sorts of other expensive stuff just to keep the chevy together.

[Rampager]

I run a 460 bored out to 468. I switched to the cobra jet style rods with the "football head" rod bolt. Pistons are Speed Pro hypereutectic and comp is about 10.7:1. I'm told that is way too high for these pistons but I am undecided so far. I did break one last year(broke through the ringlands) but I was lucky and the skirt stayed intact preventing the rod from doing untold damage. It was a middle cylinder and I'm skeptical it was detonation as there were no signs of it. Its possible it was merely just a bad piston.
I ported DOVE heads myself, basically gasket matching the intake side but removing alot from the exhaust including said airpump 'hump' (for the record its really not that hard to do yourself). I run stock sized valves, SS on the exhaust side.
Cam is an Xtreme marine from Comp Cams(34-236-4). I have roller rockers and guideplates etc. Intake is a stealth and I run an Edelbrock 750 carb although I do feel this does not allow the motor to breath as it should. Ignition is full MSD, 6AL, billet dist etc. I also screened the lifter valley for added safety.
The motor spins an AA impellor at a hair under 5000 rpm.
Boat does mid 60's but thats mainly due to setup, I can't seem to keep it in the water most of the time!
If I had to do it again I would only change a few things. Forged pistons, for peace of mind, a wilder cam, maybe the 34-241-5(mine idles too nicely) and a bigger carb, lkely an 850 double pumper which I will likely try soon anyway.
Hope this helps
Cheers

[dogfoot]

No offence to anyone, but I feel some of you are wasteing money in some area's or being chinsie in other area's on your BBF builds??!!:eek!:
My advise is to buy a guide on BBF parts and build's so you can see where the limits are on stock and hipo factory parts.;) Then decide what you need to handle the combination you are wanting to build.:cool: You FIRST need to now how you want to use your new engine, then build for that combination!
Please, educate yorself a little, then read these threads :eek: :eek: :eek:

[Squirtcha?]

Why not touch on some of the highlights of said book? Don't be holdin out with that good information.
Not sure what Dave at DNE's done with Hack's motor, but that thing runs strong. Only time will tell if it'll hold together, but I have no doubts it'll be a strong runner for years to come.
Mine was built with a stock bottom end. Stock crank turned .010" and polished, ARP main and rod bolts, recon'd stock rods, forged pistons, total seal gapless piston rings and Edelbrock alum heads. I've run the piss out of it for three seasons and sprayed it with 100 hp of nitrous more times than I can count (I'm out just about every weekend, and even run it through the winter, so that's more like six seasons for most people). Now I'm not saying the bottom end couldn't have been built better/stronger, but mine's still holding together pretty well. I know I could've hit my horsepower number with iron heads, but liked the idea of weight savings, less chance of detonation etc. of the aluminums. In addition their stock airflow numbers are as good as a set of ported irons.
So comeon.............elaborate on some of that information. What could/should I have done differently. Or..............are you working for Barnes & Noble and don't care to share?

[Blown 472]

Build a nice stock motor, use the logs or what ever as you are not going to go fast with an E pump, period. If you want a faster pump boat get one with a different pump.
Been there done that but then agian we covered all this in the gear head section.
Have a happy day:) :)
PS. I am not saying this to be a dick, just save you a ton of time and money. A very wise man told me when I first got into my boat to get a different boat if I wanted to go fast, but being pig headed I went off and tried everything under the sun, know what? he was right.

[FoMoCo]

I am running a BFF also!
D1VE Block bored .080 over = 477
Stock 1970 Crank turned 10/10
SRP flat top pistons( I would buy again in a heart beat) 11:1 compression.
Scat H-beam Rods, ARP Main Studs
Heads C9VE with 2.19 intake and 1.76 exhasut valves(Manely Severe Duty Stainless) The heads were fully ported and polished by a shop. I ran them before they were done by the shop,I half ass ported them my self , they ran OK.
ARP head Studs(cheaper than ARP heads bolts??)
Intake: Weiand Tunnel ram with 2-750dp Holleys(turn Key, fires up everytime)!
MSD Dist and Digital 6 Plus Box(I would not recommend this box)
Cam: Comp Cam Magnum Grind 300AR solid roller.
.663 lift and 254 dur @ .050, 110 lobe sep.
Its in an 18 ft Kachina with a Berk JG pump spinning an Aggressor Mag Bronze B impeller to 5900 rpms @ 87mph! The boat needs to be set up and little better but I think she will hit 90 once I due that! Oh Ya its got a Berk Droop and a Ride-plate and Shoe.

[riverbound]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Blown 472
[B]Build a nice stock motor, use the logs or what ever as you are not going to go fast with an E pump, period. If you want a faster pump boat get one with a different pump.
I know my boat will not turn huge numbers I just want to set it up right. I want a bulletproof motor that is very reliable and I want to make sure I do it right. I dont want to spend all this time and money and later realize I did something wrong. If I was going to build a fast boat it would not be this one this is a cruiser I take my kids in it we ski behind wakeboard and arichair behind it.

[Ken F]

Okay, then if that's what you want to do, then jsut build it stock, with a mild cam, and enjoy it for years to come!
Ken F

[riverbound]

Originally posted by Ken F
Okay, then if that's what you want to do, then jsut build it stock, with a mild cam, and enjoy it for years to come!
Ken F
changing the intake manifold and porting the heads would not be worth my time?
The block is already .030 over so I can't put it back to stock.

[dankirk]

http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/521/617DSC00318-med.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/521/617DSC00322-med.JPG
Ford 460 bored .030 over, Crower Cam, Offy intake, Holley 850 double-pumper, Crane gold roller rockers, Mallory dual-point distributer, DOVE-C heads, early timing chain and gears. Turn-key, runs and sounds great.

[riverbound]

Waht kind of boat is it in?
What kind of speed do you see?
That is most likely what I want to do with mine.

[Squirtcha?]

I would have to agree with Ken. If that's what you want it for, build it near stock. Just use good parts in it, bearings, etc. It's real easy to get caught up in the faster faster thing. Ask me how I know. It starts out innocently enough, and before you know it, the bills are due.

[riverbound]

Squirtcha,
are you still selling your manifold and carb?

[RD Express]

Originally posted by riverbound
I started tearing my motor down to rebuild and am curious what combos everyone is running and what kind of numbers they are seeing. From what I have seen so far my block has been bored .030, it had a good cam in it but it is now toast. as are most of the bearings. The intake manifold is stock as are the heads. I want to make sure that I do it right the first time.
the boat is a 1976 spectra 18. the pump is a berk E pump just rebuilt w/ "A" impeller, Log exhaust.
Any help you guys could give me would be appreciated.
Just order one of them that Jegs or Summit sales. They are pretty nice.

[roostwear]

I love this message board. After reading this thread, it helped me realize that I'm at the point where getting more speed out of my boat will cost considerably more, and the results will be less. It's time to get another boat for speed, and just be satisfied with this one at it's current speed. It is, after all, a open bow cruiser, with an E pump, so this summer I'll just leave it alone and cruise.
The REAL upside is that the money I earmarked for the boat is now going into a bitchen set of M&H cheater slicks for the roadster. :D Time to get THAT done for the show season.......

[dogfoot]

Originally posted by Squirtcha?
Why not touch on some of the highlights of said book? Don't be holdin out with that good information.
Not sure what Dave at DNE's done with Hack's motor, but that thing runs strong. Only time will tell if it'll hold together, but I have no doubts it'll be a strong runner for years to come.
Mine was built with a stock bottom end. Stock crank turned .010" and polished, ARP main and rod bolts, recon'd stock rods, forged pistons, total seal gapless piston rings and Edelbrock alum heads. I've run the piss out of it for three seasons and sprayed it with 100 hp of nitrous more times than I can count (I'm out just about every weekend, and even run it through the winter, so that's more like six seasons for most people). Now I'm not saying the bottom end couldn't have been built better/stronger, but mine's still holding together pretty well. I know I could've hit my horsepower number with iron heads, but liked the idea of weight savings, less chance of detonation etc. of the aluminums. In addition their stock airflow numbers are as good as a set of ported irons.
So comeon.............elaborate on some of that information. What could/should I have done differently. Or..............are you working for Barnes & Noble and don't care to share?
Well, first off, it appears as tho. I should educate myself a little bit on my spelling:confused: The engine you have just described is about as text as you can get:cool: You don't need any books... the type books I am talking about are the ones like, "How to build Big Block Fords", just because they are (for someone who's not familiar) good for getting to know the engine and parts both stock and factory hipo and their limits, plus there is some good discussion on do's and don'ts, assembly, etc... What I hate to see people do, is mix and match stock and hipo parts on a basic stock build and the hipo part will do absolutley nothing for power building except cost them money. I don't want to use examples from what I've read, as I TRUELY do not want to offend anyone, but the sad thing is, I H A V E B E E N T H E R E when I started out years ago I wasted alot of money on parts that did absolutley nothing for me when I could have spent it more wisely on things like forged pistons or aluminum heads etc, etc, etc... anyway you get the picture, I would hate to see someone start spending money on things they're not familiar with and some opinion like mine:D Bottom line: Know what you want to build and spend your money making the most power your BUDGET can afford, but without buying parts that are not necessary to achive it...

[roostwear]

Dogfoot, it's interesting you mention that kind of book. The roadster I'm getting the cheater slicks for is the 429-460 cover car on the "Ford Performance" book by Pat Ganahl. It's also at the bottom of page 14 (sans blower). Too many 460s, too little time.......

[Hallett19]

I run a BBF, pretty simple setup with a berk/A imp jet, turns 4700 RPM (4500 before rebuild) The block is decked, from the bottom up I have a dooley oil pan (MUST HAVE) w/ baffles and rear pickup and came with a windage tray. Edelbrock fuel pump. Isky "A impeller jet" cam and ran the Ford Motorsport timing gear (MUST HAVE) I have A2A heads, untouched with double valve springs. I run an MSD Pro Billet Dist (MUST HAVE) with the ignition box. Weiand intake and TPC 780 carb. I gained a few mph on the top and a good feel out of the hole. It cost me all of $1300, but the oil pan, distributor and the timing gear are absolute must haves. You can run a stock oil pump or a high volume. Good luck and dont go buy a bunch of stuff you dont need !!! Keep it stock, keep it dependable. Oh, dogfoot, nice avatar :D

[riverbound]

Hallet 19,
I like your combo it sounds pretty much bulletproof but has a few extra goodies to make it perform.

[Ken F]

>It's time to get another boat for speed, and just be satisfied with this one at it's current speed. It is, after all, a open bow cruiser, with an E pump, so this summer I'll just leave it alone and cruise. <
Roostwear, smart decision. I just sold my open bow Omega that I had spent 5years and untold amounts of money on.
Duane told me it was one of two of the fastest open bows he had ever seen in thirty years, but it was still only 72 mph!
lol....your thought process is right on track!
Here's my new go-fast
Ken Fhttp://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/3085/5520OnTrlr1-med.jpg

[Roman 1]

Very sound advise from several posters.
The cheapest way to go is....
Bore your block to 60, get some junkyard dove or earlier 429 heads, install the 2.19 int 1.76 stainless exhaust valves. Port the heads (the exhaust ports have almost 90 degrees of turn that could use some help). Use a timing gear and chain set that doesn't have the cam retard built in. Install the comp cam 292 (hydraulic) and matching springs. Install chevy 7/16 studs, use guide plates and hardened pushrods. Throw on some roller rockers and don't forget to harden the valve seats. top it off with an 850 dp on a weiand intake and electonic ignition.
With flat top pistons this combo (tuned right) is good for 550 plus ponies without breaking the bank.
Good luck whatever you end up with.:cool: