My latest dilema??????

[MudPumper]

This is what I get for taking the boat out on a holliday weekend. Didn't get off the gas in time and came down hard on a pretty sizeable wake. Left motor mount snapped.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1653Motor_Mount1-med.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1653Motor_Mount2-med.JPG
So my problem is this. I've been running a 3 point motor mount system and after the mount broke it reemed out the holes in the stringers where the bolts were on both the left and right motor mounts. I need some ideas on how to get this thing back together for the summer. I'm thinking the only way to use the front mount is to make some bushings to eliminate any slop in the holes through the stringers and go to a 4 point mount for added strength. I don't think a rail kit would work because of the angle of the stringers, they slant inward. When I put the new front mount on I had to machine the feet to match the angle of the stringers as they are not verticle where the engine mounts. There are some damp spots in the stringers near where the old motor mounts used to be . When I bought the boat the old mount had reemed those holes out and the motor was sitting down almost on the bottom of the boat. I corrected the motor angle and put the new front mount on. The old mount location is in the right of the pic, the holes are now filled with silicone. What do you guys think, shy of putting new stringers in the boat???? And how much would new stringers run??? http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1653Motor_Mount3-med.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1653Motor_Mount4-med.JPG

[wsuwrhr]

Easy job to fix,
Wood dowels. fiberglass
Brian
909-883-3739

[AdrenelineOD]

not a pro but if the stringers are soft I would replace them. If your holes are reemed out just fill them with mar glass, bondo or even dowels and re drill. Good luck and sorry to hear the bad news.

[MAXIMUS]

Epoxy wood dowels into the holes & redrill. You can use a bigger bolt to that might take up any remaining slop! Then over the winter shit can the mounts & go to a rail set up! You will just have to match the angles of the stringers etc...:)

[Moneypitt]

If you ream the existing holes to, say 3/4, straight and clean, then use 3/4 bushings with your 3/8 bolt holes through them. You could even go out to 1 inch,(larger OD bushing) epoxy them in and still locate the same place for the 3/8 bolts.........As already stated here, if the stringers are in fact rotted away, well that will take a little more work, but drilling out to good wood MAY save your summer.................Moneypitt

[flat broke]

I'd go with the above responses with a twist. If the wood is good, drill it out to where its clean, dowel it with a good wood and epoxy then reglass the area. THEN fab and install a rail kit since you won't be landing on your repair with the new bolt locations any how.
Of course you could just sell your boat, go without a ride for the rest of the season and spend the rest of your time working on that SWTD that you posted about :D
Good luck,
Chris

[CrdStang]

If the stringers are kinda questionable but you don't want to address them until after summer, here's something you might consider.
You could "sister" the stringers by running a piece of lumber along the outside. Obviously the wider the better, as much contact area with the stringer as possible. I'd and cut some plywood for the engine compartment side of the stringer, and glue/resin everything to the stringer. Drill through the ply, the stringer, and the "sister" lumber and put some bolts/w big washers in to clamp the whole mess together.
The existing glass around the old stringer should be strong enough to keep everything in place, the trick is to distribute the load well with the extra lumber.
Yeah it's a redneck idea, but I'd do it..

[BrendellaJet]

some viable ideas here. But it seems like if you were to drill out and replace with a dowel, the dowel could crack? Maybe not. I dont think marglass would work. It would probably crack out once exposed to the weight and torque of the motor.
On my dads last boat, the stringers were in decent shape, but the holes has rounded out and the oil pan was hitting the pump intake. He took a piece of 1x6 angle aluminum (1/4 inch thick?) and saddled the stringers with that. Drilled new holes and motor wasn't moving.
If your stringers are in need of replacement, this would get you through the summer, until you could replace them(expensive to have done-cheaper to DIY) Then you could use the angle on the new install to prevent this from ever happening-or you could go with the rail kit...

[HBjet]

Originally posted by flat broke
I'd go with the above responses with a twist. If the wood is good, drill it out to where its clean, dowel it with a good wood and epoxy then reglass the area. THEN fab and install a rail kit since you won't be landing on your repair with the new bolt locations any how.
Of course you could just sell your boat, go without a ride for the rest of the season and spend the rest of your time working on that SWTD that you posted about :D
Good luck,
Chris
I like this one....... oh, maybe because thats what I did!
HBjet

[superdave013]

Originally posted by BrendellaJet
On my dads last boat, the stringers were in decent shape, but the holes has rounded out and the oil pan was hitting the pump intake. He took a piece of 1x6 angle aluminum (1/4 inch thick?) and saddled the stringers with that. Drilled new holes and motor wasn't moving.
I like this one.
That's how they set up the rails in the rough water v drive deals.

[victorfb]

by looking at those pics, what i see is that there are two sets of holes. im betting you used the top holes to mount the engine and when you hit that wake it slamed down and tried to break through to the bottom holes and one didnt want to. i would do what some have suggested and fill the holes with dowels and start all over useing just one hole. the dowels will keep the bolts from wanting to mush down to the other holes hense saving your mounts. make sure both surfaces are flat and the mounts sit up tight to the stringers without wanting to crush a bubble in the resin. looks like an easy fix. though its a bummer you have to at all. but dont fret, theres alot of people out there that have had worse luck.

[MudPumper]

There are two bolts that go through the stringer, one on top and one on bottom!! Thanks for all your replies so far guys, keep em coming if anybody has any more ideas. ;)

[Nubbs]

MP,
Sorry to hear the bad news. However, you're not totally out of luck. I'll give you my two redneck cents on your situation. (Let me put my cowboy hat on first) I would go along the lines Brendella suggested. Except, I would try to find some aluminum "C" channel or rectangular tube (you would have to cut one side of the tube to make a "C") that would fit over your stringers. That way your bolts would be through aluminum on both sides of the stringers.
Nubbs

[MudPumper]

Nubbs, thanks for the input. This is one Idea I have been tossing around!!!;) I keep kicking myself for not grabbing your boat. And everybody who saw the pics of your boat kicks me too. LOL

[Cs19]

I'm with the other guys, make some sort of backing plate and leave the hole in the stringer as is.
Drilling a 3/4 inch hole and using a bushing is an okay idea, but I always try to drill the minimal amount of holes in the boat, especially 3/4 inch ones. :)
Ive got some fab tools if you need to whip something up real quick.Good luck.

[TRG]

ditto with cs19!

[victorfb]

Originally posted by MudPumper
There are two bolts that go through the stringer, one on top and one on bottom!! Thanks for all your replies so far guys, keep em coming if anybody has any more ideas. ;)
understood, but if you read carefully, i said two SETS of holes. one just above the other. (4 holes total) or in this case 2 elongated holes. by filling the unused holes with a dowel you will create a stop for the bolt. i really dont see the need to cover the stringer completely with an aluminum channel. one flat peice on the outside would be sufficient. that way your mounts wont have to be cut or fabricated. (with the channel you would be narrowing the stringers) its the old school frame rail and works fine. basically from the furthest point back (just dont cover the drain hole through the end of the stringer) up to the front of the engine. you will have to through bolt it in a couple places, but the added strength will out do the added holes. plus if you polish it up it looks cool.:D this a quik, easy, inexpensive, and good fix for your problem. id hate for you to get involved into a bigger project since the season is allready here. i think your biggest problem is either getting the motor mount welded, or finding a new one. welding it should be no problem and most likely be stronger. that cast stuff is so poris. the weld should actually be stronger. but a new one would be best.
good luck and i hope you get it fixed in record time.

[HammerDown]

MudP, I don't have a pic but what I did was to have two Aluminum saddels made up. Their about 8 inches long X4 inches deep and they fit snuggly down over the existing stringers, I even polished them up and look great, very strong and spread the weight of the engine. Oh and I filled the old stringer holes with hardwood dowels and just drilled new ones through the Aluminum. Everyone thats seen it really likes the idea.;)

[MudPumper]

Victorfb, now I see what you are saying, thanks for the advise. Thanks to everybody who has chimed in on my post, I really appreciate all your help. I ordered a new set of feet from Rex $42 bucks, should be here today. I am going to dowl the old holes and then put some channel over the stringers. Seems to be the quickest and easiest fix for now. As long as it last through the summer it's cool!! Thanks again for all your input guys.

[BrendellaJet]

Originally posted by Nubbs
MP,
Sorry to hear the bad news. However, you're not totally out of luck. I'll give you my two redneck cents on your situation. (Let me put my cowboy hat on first) I would go along the lines Brendella suggested. Except, I would try to find some aluminum "C" channel or rectangular tube (you would have to cut one side of the tube to make a "C") that would fit over your stringers. That way your bolts would be through aluminum on both sides of the stringers.
Nubbs
Iff you can find channel that would work. It would be tough for a do it yourselfer to trim a wall off of some box tubing. Get the angle, and some 1/4inch plate...stringer sandwich.