Best sealer for trnsom adaptor

[clownpuncher]

Got some good leaks at the transom adaptor and need to seal that baby up. What's gonna be the best stuff to use. I''ll have to take the old crap off too, any tricks to that? As always thanks in advance. Roland

[GM Killer]

Use clear Kitchen and sink or window silicon for the new.
A razorblade, a rag, WD-40, and elbow grease to remove the old

[BrendellaJet]

Originally posted by GM Killer
Use clear Kitchen and sink or window silicon for the new.
A razorblade, a rag, WD-40, and elbow grease to remove the old
Only if you want it to leak again. That shit will mold and break down in no time-its not made to be submersed. home depot used to carry a product made by 3m for marine applications. Its clear also, and works awesome.

[clownpuncher]

Originally posted by GM Killer
Use clear Kitchen and sink or window silicon for the new.
A razorblade, a rag, WD-40, and elbow grease to remove the old
Thanks GM for the advice. I was kinda hoping to stay away from the razor blade, and especially the elbow grease part but I figured it would come to that.

[clownpuncher]

Originally posted by BrendellaJet
Only if you want it to leak again. That shit will mold and break down in no time-its not made to be submersed. home depot used to carry a product made by 3m for marine applications. Its clear also, and works awesome.
Thanks, I'll check it out

[hack job]

3M 5200 fast cure is the stuff i use never had a problem and it dose not take that much elbow grease to remove it( it comes off in big peices);)

[clownpuncher]

Originally posted by hack job
3M 5200 fast cure is the stuff i use never had a problem and it dose not take that much elbow grease to remove it( it comes off in big peices);)
Fast cure? How fast? That would be great. I'd like to seal her up and get on the water ASAP.

[Lookin for Liquid]

Originally posted by BrendellaJet
Only if you want it to leak again. That shit will mold and break down in no time-its not made to be submersed. home depot used to carry a product made by 3m for marine applications. Its clear also, and works awesome. Dow Corning makes "aquarium grade" silicone if you really want to seal it

[Slick]

5200 is a pain in the ass and it contracts causing cracks. As long as you use 100% silicone, you'll be just fine. It's less expensive too.

[hack job]

Originally posted by Slick
5200 is a pain in the ass and it contracts causing cracks. As long as you use 100% silicone, you'll be just fine. It's less expensive too.
thats funy i have neverhad a probelm wiht it and i have used it on many boat with no problems ever. :confused: its mostly on how you apply it;)

[HammerDown]

Sorry but I've used regular GE Silicone on the transom, and under the water line it broke down.
True, there is below the water line grade silicone and I've used that also...better.
But I really like the 3M stuff...that s**t's nasty! And theres 2 grades to pick from. (removable, and pain in the arss to get off).

[hellbound]

theres a real nice product called Rain buster 14000 it has a 50 yr warranty 100% silicone good shiot they also make a some better suff called rain buster tile adhesive #850 it comes in diff colors but it might take piano string to get it off again real tacky stuff you can find it a roofing supply or some lumber yards.

[disco_charger]

Lexel. Unbelievable stuff.

[hellbound]

Originally posted by disco_charger
Lexel. Unbelievable stuff. also some good stuff

[Slick]

Originally posted by hack job
thats funy i have neverhad a probelm wiht it and i have used it on many boat with no problems ever. :confused: its mostly on how you apply it;)
It worked great for the transom adapter, exhaust tips, etc. I did have a decent gap between the bowl and the transom adapter that required quite a bit of material. That's where the 5200 cracked.

[78Southwind]

Below the water line I have only used 5200 I haven't had a problem with it but it takes a couple of days to dry. Above the water line I use Dow Silicone.

[WriedtStuff]

3M 5200 is a polyurethane sealant/ adhesive. The 5200 is the standard version and takes 7 days to fully cure and is super strong and will not degrade below the water. Actually it will cure under water....I used it one time to seal a big corrosion hole in the out drive of my house boat...and it worked perfectly and held for several years.
The 4200 version is the fast cure...which I think takes 3 days to fully cure....
The only bad thing is that it can be difficult to remove and is very sticky to work with and does not clean up easily....

[wrightnow]

Originally posted by hack job
thats funy i have neverhad a probelm wiht it and i have used it on many boat with no problems ever. :confused: its mostly on how you apply it;)
Maybe it's just your boat has not seen alot of water time...lol

[HammerDown]

Originally posted by WriedtStuff
The 4200 version is the fast cure...which I think takes 3 days to fully cure....
The only bad thing is that it can be difficult to remove and is very sticky to work with and does not clean up easily....
Yep, I belive it was the 4200 (black) I used. Very impressive product.

[Froggystyle]

I would use nothing other than the 4200 on that transom Clown...
That is what is on there now, and is one of very few that are rated for use below the waterline. In addition, most of the other types of silicone for home use break down really really quickly when engine oil (not completely unheard of in a bilge) is introduced.
I would use the 4200 (red label) and take the time.
Tip for all of you... when you install a transom adapter, or anything that is going to need a lot of "silicone" you can do a really nice job by taping a line where you want the edge of the strip to be, putting down your bead of caulking, smoothing it with your finger or whatever, wait an hour then pull the tape and you will be good to go. Nice straight line.

[RandyH]

I found this to help when taking the old stuff off. Take a wooden dowl, 3/8" diameter and cut about a 60 degree slice off the end. Keep the length about 18 to 24 inchs. Tape up the other end and use it as a scraping devise. It wont scratch your pump or adapter and for some reason , the shape will get under the silicone and it acts as a putty knife. It can get down into all the nooks easily around the suction peice also. Its the best thing I found for removal. That and lots of rubbing alcohol. It breaks the silicone down over time.
Good Luck,
RandyH

[hack job]

Originally posted by Froggystyle
I would use nothing other than the 4200 on that transom Clown...
I
Tip for all of you... when you install a transom adapter, or anything that is going to need a lot of "silicone" you can do a really nice job by taping a line where you want the edge of the strip to be, putting down your bead of caulking, smoothing it with your finger or whatever, wait an hour then pull the tape and you will be good to go. Nice straight line.
did this on mine and it looks killer!!! the only way to go also when going around the bowl use a penny to give you that smooth texture;)

[Lightning]

Originally posted by Froggystyle
I would use nothing other than the 4200 on that transom Clown...
That is what is on there now, and is one of very few that are rated for use below the waterline. In addition, most of the other types of silicone for home use break down really really quickly when engine oil (not completely unheard of in a bilge) is introduced.
I would use the 4200 (red label) and take the time.
Tip for all of you... when you install a transom adapter, or anything that is going to need a lot of "silicone" you can do a really nice job by taping a line where you want the edge of the strip to be, putting down your bead of caulking, smoothing it with your finger or whatever, wait an hour then pull the tape and you will be good to go. Nice straight line.
This is definately the clean way to do the job. This was the product used on my boat, and it works really well.

[clownpuncher]

Thanks for all the leads. Looks like it'll be 4200 and tape. I've never done it before but I'm sure I'll figure it out. I gotta admit I'm not to crazy about having to wait for the fully cured time. 3 days? Damn. You think it'll be safe enough to put in the water after 24 hours?

[clownpuncher]

sumbitch. I can't find any 3m 4200 around here. Anyone know who typically carries it? Lowes? Home depot? Don't want to mailorder because I'm planning on going to the river (where my boat is stored) on Wed

[Cas]

this is what I use
http://www.westmarine.com/images/full/26104_f.jpg
Life Seal Sealant offers fast-curing, low-odor, high-adhesion, non-corrosive and non-sagging properties.
Polyurethane and silicone formulated especially for use on fiberglass.
It gives measurably better adhesion than silicone.
Unlike most polyurethanes, can be removed without damage to gelcoats.
West Marine (http://www.westmarine.com)

[WriedtStuff]

Home Depot and Lowes stopped carrying the 3m 5200 about a year ago....they have never carried the 4200...I don't think. The only place I know to get it right now is West Marine or Boat US. You might try and Ace Hardware...I think I have seen it there.....but check the tube carefully....if it has been on the shelf for a while, it will harden in the tube.....

[calperf19]

Hell dow corning is what that chick was built from maybe you can borrow some?
Later BK

[HammerDown]

Home Depot and Lowes stopped carrying the 3m 5200 about a year ago....they have never carried the 4200.
Actually both my local Home Depots have several cases of the 3M Marine 5200...all in white, I need black. :notam:
PS. this product is MUCH cheaper at Home Depot vs Boaters world West Marine etc. ;)

[Rexone]

Use Boatlife Marine Silicone. Works good and is marine grade silicone, not household stuff. Much easier than the 3M to remove. We have if you need.

[Tom Brown]

Use Boatlife Marine Silicone. Works good and is marine grade silicone, not household stuff. Much easier than the 3M to remove. We have if you need.
I second the vote for Boatlife - Life Caulk.
It's tough as hell to get off but not as hard as 5200. 5200 is the wrong product, if you're trying to seal something, IMO. It's a marine adhesive and does an amazing job but I wouldn't use it on anything I might have to take apart later. At least with 4200 you can heat it and get it to release by pounding the crap out of it. 5200 is pretty severe.