Questions and needed info

[LUVNLIFE]

Alright guys some of this might be dumb questions but I need a little info and help. I owned this boat, a 19' Daytona, 5 years ago and recently bought it back.
First question. These are pics of the intake area. What exactly do I have here and are they good race parts.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/733-med.jpg
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/734-med.jpg
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/735-med.jpg

[LUVNLIFE]

Next question. Are the four through bolts in the middle called the intake bolts?
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/731-med.jpg

[LUVNLIFE]

Next question. Is it neccessary in high performance applications to have all the studs inplace that hold the droop to the bowl. Right now every other one is studed.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/732-med.jpg

[LUVNLIFE]

Next Question. This appears to me to be a stock harmonic balancer. I can't find any numbers on it. What do you boys think?
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/736-med.jpg

[LUVNLIFE]

Now for fun. Here is a picture of the nice new header burn to go along with the new boat.:D
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/737-med.jpg

[LUVNLIFE]

As always thanks in advance for any replies and info.;)

[Cs19]

Interesting trailer light set up. Or am I seeing things? :D
Looks like you have all the stuff you need, for the most part.
You have a nice set up for a boat like that, back cut shoe,rideplate and loader,also looks like its got a s.s impeller,dps inducer and calgo steering.Its all real nice stuff, and its not cheap.Who knows if the set up is correct, your just gonna have to go run it and see how it feels, get in touch with one of your local pump shops to get an idea of what your doing on set up. If you have any power in this thing, you better check all your settings before you go leg it.Maybe back off some of the stuff to tone it down while you get a feel for things.Feel free to ask here if you have questions.
Those 4 bolts in the middle are the bolts that hold the loader on, its actually threaded through the intake and those nuts are just for back up.Inspect that loader for cracks before you run it.Replace it if its questionable.
As far as the double bolting for the droop, well if the holes have been drilled and tapped already, ya you might as well go ahead and install all the studs,you really dont need it unless you have say 700 plus hp.How many bolts are holding on the bowl up near the transom? 8 or 16? They normally dont come from the factory with double bolted parts, thats a high perf. upgrade for the hotrod/race guys.
Yeah looks like a stock dampner, keep an eye on it, they can come apart when they get old.
Congrats on getting you boat back,and id like to see some more pics of the boat and the inside of the boat if you get a chance. From the looks of things, im guessing its a somewhat light boat, and its got potential. Keep us posted..CS19

[LVjetboy]

Header burn...tbc your headers. And run them wet with electrics. Trust me.
jer

[LUVNLIFE]

Cs19 does that mean the intake bolts are the 10 or so smaller ones around the outside. They come up from the bottom and have nuts on the inside. The ones I'm seeing are rather small bolts. For double bolting I haven't checked if the other holes are threaded yet, if they are I will install the studs. If not the first time I have the droop off I will tap them. There are 8 bolts holding the bowl. Is it a good idea to double bolt that as well? My other motor has a Fluidampner on it. When I get that one back together it will go in the boat. Someone had told me the rideplate should be no more than an 1/8th inch above or below the bottom of the boat. Since I last drove this boat the motor has been moved and the rideplate is visibly way up. Have not checked it with astraight edge but its like 3/8ths or 1/2 up. I was thinking of just zeroing it out (flat) for the first time out. Yes it is the lightened layup. I will post some more pics. It still needs some TLC to get it where I like it though. Thanks again.

[Sleek26]

Originally posted by LVjetboy
Header burn...tbc your headers. And run them wet with electrics. Trust me.
jer
OK time to show my ignorance..What do you mean by "run them wet with electrics????

[LVjetboy]

Use electric injection control instead of the spring t-valve thingy.
With spring thing (mechanical), problems with water in the oil at idle or less top end performance cause some people to give up and run dry. End up with hot...VERY hot headers. With electric control you get to pick on and off rpms, the best of both worlds. Turn it on at an rpm above reversion and turn it off for best full throttle performance. Combine electrics with tbc (thermal barrier coating) and you have the best system.
Tbc like Jet Hot if applied inside and out lowers header temperature below skin graft meltdown. I recently had mine de-chromed and coated and I can tell you...it's way cooler. I was impressed and that takes a lot. Soon after shut-down I can put my hand on the header. So tbc with electrics gives you safety from burns, protects your engine from reversion and gives the best top end performance...not bad. The only drawback is it doesn't shine like a new pair of chromes. But I've been through many chromes and it's hard to keep it on without compromising. Once colored they look worse than coated. And the benefits far outweigh that new chrome look in my opinion.
With coated you still have to inject to keep the coating on, but electrics can handle that just fine. Banderlog offers electric control, I used an MSD rpm control (low-high cutoff chip) with a solenoid valve. Either way works fine.
jer

[LUVNLIFE]

What is the cost of the dechroming and the tbc? Did you go with the JetHot? Right now I run a Basset T valve plus a water valve from Rex. The one with the four positions and the small black handle. Just means I have to do it manually were yours is controled by a solenoid. Would the vale I run work? I would hate to spend the money on the JetHot and burn it off. Is it just running them dry for long periods that would burn the coating? What about no wake and running on the trailer?

[LVjetboy]

I used Jet-Hot and total cost 354.75 including dechrome and shipping. My low chip is 2500 rpm (I soldiered a resistor in parallel to a 6k chip because I couldn't find an MSD chip below 3k) so mine run dry in the no-wake zone. At idle, egt won't be enough to harm the coating dry. But if you run 3k or above without injection for an extended time, the coating will start to color.
I've run full throttle dry (water cuts off at 5600 rpm) for about 10 seconds with no problem. But during the freeboard challenge, the hot wire to my solenoid arming switch fell off and I ran the afternoon dry thinking it was dirt in the solenoid. Got slight coloration on the right header near the collector. So I know you can't run them dry for an extended time and not get color. The good news is Jet-Hot has a 3 year warranty for one time recoating for free.
As for running on the trailer, electrics work well too. This because you don't rely on hose supply pressure to activate injection. Before I had electric, I found with just the Bassett t-valve, I'd still have to monkey with a manual valve or the hose pressure (adjusted to keep the engine cool above idle) injected too much at idle. The problem is hose pressure doesn't follow engine speed like pump pressure.
A manual valve like you have works fine, if you remember to turn it on and off. Knowing me, I'd forget every once in awhile. :)
jer

[Taylorman]

Your liking that electric valve aren't you. I like mine also. Beats the hell out of a t valve. I used an adjustable rpm chip for the low rpm. Its set to 2000. Your using that relay with the window switch?

[LVjetboy]

Yep, the valve works great. And I'm using a 30W relay that came with the window switch.
jer

[LUVNLIFE]

Ok guys thanks for all the input and keep it coming. The JetHot I will look into seriously. The electric valve when I switch motors and rewire a little. ;)