fuel tank mounts w-thru hull bolts in edge stealth?

[badbug]

I have a 1997 edge stealth jet 19 ft. and the fuel tank has bolts running thru the hull with large washers on the bottom of the boat right where the water would hit them. Wouldn"t this cause a loss of speed. Dont make sense to me to do this. WHATS THE DEAL? GARY

[superdave013]

I donno about those boats but my flat had the bolts go up through the bottom with the nuts and washers on the inside of the boat. The bolt heads were countersunk and filled over with sea goin putty.

[gunslinger]

My cp gullwing has them mounted the same way. The washers and bolt heads will not make a difference really. I cant imagine they are actually on the "running surface" of your hull.

[superdave013]

I'm sorry but even in the tunnels. Bolt heads and washers on the bottom of a boat is hack as a mofo if you ask me. I'ed be changing that to countersunk ones asap. How can you sleep knowing that's like that?

[565edge]

Alot of boats are like that.People will get stringer washers and counter sink them.I dont know how thick the floor is down their to do it like superdave said.Actually if the boat is set up right the part of the hull wont be in the water at top speed.Did you get it running yet?

[HavasuDreamin']

The bolts go up through the hull with nuts and washers on the inside correct? Doesn't matter if it is not countersunk because they aren't on the running surface. A lot of 19' Daytona's were rigged that way. Mine was, although I took the saddle tanks out and filled the holes. Seems to be standard.

[cyclone]

My boat is set up with the tanks thru-bolted. That portion of my boat isn't even in the water at WOT so i'm not too worried about losing speed over it.
:)

[Cs19]

If the boat is real thin, countersinking is not a good idea, I used buttonheads on mine.
The idea is to spread the load out.

[gunslinger]

The bottom of the cp is too thin to countersink in this case. The stringer washers are counter sunk so the bolt head is flush with the washer. As far as being hack as a mofo (LMAO) there isnt any wood in the tunnel area of this boat, just thin glass. I wont lose any sleep over this one.:)

[superdave013]

I guess I've been under my schiada to much. It's over 1.5" thick and you can just drill and blind tap the bottom. Plenty of meat to counter sink a few bolts not that I'm doing that or anything.

[badbug]

boat trailer needed a lot of reworking as the uprights that hold the running boards were rusted and broken. Have redone all of that and am waiting for an oil pan and an oil cooler and will soon be installing motor. Will let you know when it is tested. gary

[LUVNLIFE]

My Daytona was too thin. The bolts kept pulling through so I came up with a different plan.

[Squirtcha?]

Originally posted by superdave013
I'm sorry but even in the tunnels. Bolt heads and washers on the bottom of a boat is hack as a mofo if you ask me. I'ed be changing that to countersunk ones asap. How can you sleep knowing that's like that?
Call me a hacker I guess.........My Kachina was only 1/4" thick where I drilled. After countersinking that wouldn't leave much meat.
I through drilled and used stinger washers countersunk with internal wrenching countersunk hex head bolts and nylock nuts.

[calperf19]

My boat has the tanks glassed in, when I took them out it was real easy. Just a little cut with the whirly wheel. I glassed them back in and there going no where. I've got mine carpeted so I guess if you want to display your cool polished tanks you'll have to drill from the bottom. Seems stupid to me. Hey Squirtcha has Mike C called you yet?
Later BK

[superdave013]

Originally posted by Squirtcha?
Call me a hacker I guess.........My Kachina was only 1/4" thick where I drilled. After countersinking that wouldn't leave much meat.
I through drilled and used stinger washers countersunk with internal wrenching countersunk hex head bolts and nylock nuts.
Ok, you're a hack. I would find a different way. No way would I have bolt heads or stringer washers hanging down under the bottom of a boat. sorry
Your boat's even a v hull!

[Cs19]

Sd, theres not a whole lot you can do when your boat is 1/4 " thick and you want gunnell tanks, countersinking for a 5/16 FHMS just is not an option,its too thin.
You could always glass in some small wood blocks (like 3/4 inch ply) and install t-nuts into those wood blocks, and then mount the gunnell tank straps to the blocks.
If you do thru bolt it make sure you anti sieze those threads, silicone the bolt heads and dont over tighten the bolts, you could crush the hull very easily.If its a race boat, dont drill it, it wasnt made for tanks like that and your gonna have a hard time re-selling it, also if its got that parquay flooring, make damn sure no water gets into it.

[Squirtcha?]

Originally posted by superdave013
Ok, you're a hack. I would find a different way. No way would I have bolt heads or stringer washers hanging down under the bottom of a boat. sorry
Your boat's even a v hull!
Originally posted by calperf19
Seems stupid to me
Stupid hack then I guess. That would've hurt my feelings (if I cared what you thought).
Damned good thing I don't!:D
BK check your pm's

[superdave013]

Squirtcha?,
I wouod never call anyone stupid. And I only called you a hack because you said it first. lol You know it was all in fun man.
CS19, man, your boats are thin. Why does it take so much power to make them run? lol that otta get a rise. :D
Anyway yeah, glasing in something to attach the tanks to seems like a better way. Mine are attached to bulkheads. Seems like drilling though the bottom is just asking for water to get in there and cause delaminaton to start.

[Squirtcha?]

We're cool super. I was just yucking with ya. :argue:
I did exactly what cs19 said though. Used anti-seize on the stainless hardware theads and marine sealant under the stringer washers and gooped it into the holes. They've been in for two years now and no leaks so far.

[Danhercules]

I had one of my fiberglased tanks come loose, so I mounted it through the hull. The boat dose pull to one side now. I am guessin its the bolts on the bottom of the hull.
GOTCHA, no diffrence. I am gonna do the other tank when it comes loose. I did the same as Squirtcha?. Its fine.

[superdave013]

Dan, get going about 50mph and stick the tip of your finger in the water. When it about breaks off your finger you now know what kinda drag those bolt heads are causing.
I guess I can see bolt heads inside the tunnels where they are not in the water. (just focking up the air flow a little bit)
But on the bottom anyplace close to the running surface? C'MON
I wonder how Jeff Bennett would do it? He's the real expert. We should ask him.

[Squirtcha?]

Oh come on now super...........you're acting like it's a huge drag. I lost no speed to it, thus I don't care. I gps'd it many times before, and many times after and there's no loss in speed.
They're so far outboard on a semi-v that they're not even in the water when the boats running at WOT.
http://jetboat.homestead.com/files/bolthead2.jpg
http://jetboat.homestead.com/files/bolthead1.jpg

[LVjetboy]

Here's my tank bolts...
http://members.cox.net/lvjetboy/ThruBolt.jpg
All eight in the water no wonder it's slow! Seriously, I don't know if the floor's thick enough for countersunk or how much drag these cost me...but they seem to hold the tanks pretty good.
jer

[gunslinger]

Just take a look a both of your avatars. Those bolts are costing you numbers.:D Although I do see Daves point. It can be done cleaner. On my flatty there was enough meat to do a counter sunk deal. On the cp as mentioned glassed in blocks or the like would be one solution. I think the countersunk stringer washer will do the trick for most. If I did'nt stay out on the water for extended periods of time, or this thing got the kinda gas mileage the old v-drive got, a bullet tank might be in order. Naaaa.

[superdave013]

Originally posted by Squirtcha?
Oh come on now super...........you're acting like it's a huge drag. I lost no speed to it, thus I don't care. I gps'd it many times before, and many times after and there's no loss in speed.
They're so far outboard on a semi-v that they're not even in the water when the boats running at WOT.
http://jetboat.homestead.com/files/bolthead2.jpg
http://jetboat.homestead.com/files/bolthead1.jpg
To each their own. If we all did it the same it would be boring right? I do think it's alot of drag when they are in the water. And they are in the water evey wave you hit. If you are really cooking in some chop that could cause a handling problem too.
Bottom line is they might not have slowed you down but they will make it harder for you to go faster.
But hey, I bolted my tanks in too. Even used stringer washers at a place other then the stringers. They are on the back sides of the bulkhead in this pic so you can't see them. But they are there! :D
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/9stringer_rail_install-med.jpg

[LUVNLIFE]

Originally posted by cs19
Sd, theres not a whole lot you can do when your boat is 1/4 " thick and you want gunnell tanks, countersinking for a 5/16 FHMS just is not an option,its too thin.
You could always glass in some small wood blocks (like 3/4 inch ply) and install t-nuts into those wood blocks, and then mount the gunnell tank straps to the blocks.
If you do thru bolt it make sure you anti sieze those threads, silicone the bolt heads and dont over tighten the bolts, you could crush the hull very easily.If its a race boat, dont drill it, it wasnt made for tanks like that and your gonna have a hard time re-selling it, also if its got that parquay flooring, make damn sure no water gets into it.
Thats what I did. Glassed in 3/4 ply and it worked perfect.;)

[Squirtcha?]

While I agree that it'd be a boring place if we all did our stuff the same way.................I think you're really reaching on this one!
To each their own. If we all did it the same it would be boring right? I do think it's alot of drag when they are in the water. And they are in the water evey wave you hit. If you are really cooking in some chop that could cause a handling problem too.
Bottom line is they might not have slowed you down but they will make it harder for you to go faster.
Reiteration.........."no loss of speed" and add "no ill handling".

[Froggystyle]

I would personally never have any protrusion below the boat at all. If I was going to be doing this job, I would glass in enough of a thickness of cloth right where you are going to countersink, create a pad of sorts for the tank bracket, and countersink properly, then fill with epoxy and sand flush.
Done it several times on several boats, including my Daytona. I can't imagine doing it any other way.

[LVjetboy]

"I would glass in enough of a thickness of cloth right where you are going to countersink, create a pad of sorts for the tank bracket, and countersink properly, then fill with epoxy and sand flush."
I'd have to agree. Although button heads may not slow me down much, I'm sure they're not making me any faster. And no doubt I've done more for less in the past. But I won't worry about that until I flip it for a blueprint...one of these days. Right now having too much fun using it! :D
jer