What Oil To Run In Motor

[eliminator1974]

ANYONE HAVE A SUGGESTION ON WHAT MOTOR OIL TO RUN IN MY MOTOR? THIS IS MY FIRST BLOWER MOTOR AND I DONT KNOW IF THERE IS ANY MOTOR OIL OUT THERE BETTER FOR BLOWER MOTORS. I NORMALLY RUN MOBIL 1 SYNTHETIC. THANKS FOR INFO :rollside:

[ELIMINAT THIS]

ANYONE HAVE A SUGGESTION ON WHAT MOTOR OIL TO RUN IN MY MOTOR? THIS IS MY FIRST BLOWER MOTOR AND I DONT KNOW IF THERE IS ANY MOTOR OIL OUT THERE BETTER FOR BLOWER MOTORS. I NORMALLY RUN MOBIL 1 SYNTHETIC. THANKS FOR INFO :rollside:
Thats what I run mobil 1.

[VD CRUISER]

Yeh, I run Mobil 1 also.

[kaqster]

Mobile 1. 15-50Wt

[Schiada76]

Pennzoil 50w for a blower motor

[J540]

You guys are FUNNY, Mobil 1!!.
Dont know how hard you run it or how much boost you run.
Use kendal Eather Straight 40 if you dont run hard or Straight 50 if you do or if you run long dist,. chang it every Two / three trips out.
No need to waste $$ on M1. I got 5 yr's 1300+ HP Run in lake Hauasu 100+ gal of fule every weekend. The same bearings are going back in the motor monday, the Grey coating is still on.

[cookieman]

:rollside: I run 20/50 royal purple. Seems to work great for me.

[xs ultra]

You guys are FUNNY, Mobil 1!!.
Dont know how hard you run it or how much boost you run.
Use kendal Eather Straight 40 if you dont run hard or Straight 50 if you do or if you run long dist,. chang it every Two / three trips out.
No need to waste $$ on M1. I got 5 yr's 1300+ HP Run in lake Hauasu 100+ gal of fule every weekend. The same bearings are going back in the motor monday, the Grey coating is still on.
Well Said !

[kanedog]

Why straight 50 wt for a blower motor.why not 20 50 or 1030 or something like that(question mark button is broken)Is it because of running hard or heat.

[Morg]

Why straight 50 wt for a blower motor.why not 20 50 or 1030 or something like that(question mark button is broken)Is it because of running hard or heat.
Yup & yup.
High rpm long running (marine) engines generate a bunch of heat, blown even more.
A chemist explained to me that multi weight oils are achived by adding microscopic granules to the lighter weigth oil. This will make the oil thicker. He also told me in high performance engines, the stresses will make the granules break down. He highly recomended straight weights.
I personally run valvoline racing 40wt. I had to run 50wt last year, but hoping inprovements to the cooler will let me stay with 40wt. I have always heard good things about the penzoil, but hard to find.

[steve d]

Ran 50wt Valvoline in a midget for 10yrs--Alky ,nitro--ALWAYS heated the oil before we ran. End of a 50 lap main 235 deg. Worked for us.

[ghittner]

Valvoline 40 wt Racing oil

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

I am running castroil 30wt but I am switching to valvoline racing 40wt. My motor was just built and I wanted to keep the "eos" and assembly lubes in it for a few hours.
I have seen a motor with penzoil and it literally looked like wax!! :yuk: :yuk: i will NEVER run penzoil :yuk: :yuk:
396

[Fiat48]

Penzoil racing oil is not like any other Penzoil. Totally different formula made for alcohol and nitro.

[Dragboat Dad]

Ran 50wt Valvoline in a midget for 10yrs--Alky ,nitro--ALWAYS heated the oil before we ran. End of a 50 lap main 235 deg. Worked for us.
What is a good way to heat oil?

[Fiat48]

Moroso and others make oil pan heaters...pads that attatch to the pan for 110 volt.

[78Eliminator]

Pennzoil (http://www.pennzoil.com/products/motor_oil/racing_oil.html)

[Hallett]

Mobil 1 great oil.

[Beer-30]

Mobil 1 great oil.
I use M-1, since it is plenty affordable from Costco. Plus, knowing that all of the molecules are the same size (synthetic) and are engineered for hard running sells me on it.
Any of the brands are fine.
You guys are FUNNY, Mobil 1!!.
Dont know how hard you run it or how much boost you run.
Use kendal Eather Straight 40 if you dont run hard or Straight 50 if you do or if you run long dist,. chang it every Two / three trips out.
No need to waste $$ on M1. I got 5 yr's 1300+ HP Run in lake Hauasu 100+ gal of fule every weekend. The same bearings are going back in the motor monday, the Grey coating is still on.
Then why not just run Firebird recycled 40 wt, and save another $1/qt ?
I run 35-40 hrs on M-1 10-30 in the boat. It still comes out clean enough to make me wonder why we change so often.
Just because Kendall 40 works for you, doesn't mean your same bearings wouldn't look the same with another oil. Some just like knowing that the extra shear strength of a synthetic oil film is in there. To each their own. He is just asking what people run.

[J540]

I use M-1, since it is plenty affordable from Costco. Plus, knowing that all of the molecules are the same size (synthetic) and are engineered for hard running sells me on it.
Any of the brands are fine.
Then why not just run Firebird recycled 40 wt, and save another $1/qt ?
I run 35-40 hrs on M-1 10-30 in the boat. It still comes out clean enough to make me wonder why we change so often.
Just because Kendall 40 works for you, doesn't mean your same bearings wouldn't look the same with another oil. Some just like knowing that the extra shear strength of a synthetic oil film is in there. To each their own. He is just asking what people run.
First: I use 50wt not 40, And yes the bearings MINE, and a lot of others DO LOOK differant if you want to call it that with say penz, or val,. Just so you know we use to run valvoline 60 in our Blown Fuel Flat IHBA, Not to many problems. But after see what the Bearings look like with Kendall, royal purple, or even better Lubrication engineers. But the cost is more than you need to spend with LE, so i stay with Kendall. Not kicking Penz, or val, to the curb at all just telling you what bearings look like in other motors that i see quite often, I will say a lot of it comes down to pour maintenace in the oil area.
Your firebird statement was kinda lame, And its not about saveing $1.00.
Your M1 is not good to use in the breakin time, its so slipery the rings dont seat well.
Any way its your junk run what you want, like you said any of the brands are fine so run firebird 50wt. I dont have to worry about shear strenght.

[Beer-30]

Wow. First of all, I never did/would call your equipment; whatever it may be; junk - most uncool. Highly un-called-for.
My Firebird comment was meant as a form of rebuttle for your cost comment. You get what you pay for, and some people like to pay a little more for oils than others. No biggie.
And you are 100% right, synthetic is usually not called for during break-in. Interestingly enough, it is funny that you say it's too slippery. Didn't know an oil could be too slippery. I understand you were putting that in a break-in context, but I don't see how it could be too slick after the fact.
The guy simply asked what oil people suggest. If you suggest Kendall 40,50, or 60 - that's great. If others like Pennzoil, that's great too. Some like Mobil-1, some like Castrol, some like Valvoline. Great. I just must have missed where he asked for someone to bash on other oils.
Personally, I feel all oil companies are competing for the same markets, so they all are on their best behavior. I don't recall reading about any oil-related failures around here yet. I have run all different types in different motors over the years and have not had any problems, so I can't offer any negatives.
I can't really even bash on the Firebird stuff, either. Our fleet of cars at work run Firebird 10-30 (low bid). They run 24 hours a day for about a year to a year and a half - when they hit 100,000 miles. Then they are auctioned. Oil changed every 5K to boot. I guess even though it is recycled, doesn't mean it's bad oil. I will say it doesn't cost much, though.

[DEL51]

Valvoline 40 wt Racing oil
Valvoline is high in detergents and will turn black very soon.I like to run schaeffers 20w 50 semi synthenhetic. Check out under general search. bob is the oil guy.com or The oil drop. You could spend a lubrication holiday on that site.

[JMC]

Dont most of the hardcore blown engines need need straight 40 or 50 weight? Some of the engine builders out there dont want any synthetic in their engines. I have read of roller tappets skidding on the cam when synthetic is used. I also heard its easier for synthetic to be pushed passed the rings and eventually causing excessive blow by.

[Beer-30]

Well, most motors today, from the factories, request (notice I didn't say require) 5w-30. As long as rings are in good shape, I don't see much slipping past them. Nascar motors run 0w synthetic for qualifying, to get the extra HP.
I would only see a roller lifter skidding with next to no spring pressure. All of the hi-performance GM cars roll off the line with Mobil-1. Vettes, WS6s, FireHawks, Camaro SS (SLP). I'm not saying M-1 is the best oil on the planet, it is just probably the most common and is affordable.

[Schiada76]

The "junk" comment was not an insult. Merely a euphemism as in "I'm going to Parker this weekend to thrash my junk". :D
The 50wt is for running under boost for extended periods.
My motor builder (John's too) says Pennzoil by far has shown the least wear on his motors. Nascar tears their motors down rather frequently I'd imagine.
J540 thrashes the CHIT out of that thing for extended periods on quite a bit of boost. :220v:

[Fiat48]

It's real good to get feedback from guys running so many different oils and having such good results with them. Always interesting.
I run the Penzoil racing oil in the alcohol motors. Currently 50 wt due to the fact I am dry sump and have a heater for the tank. The reason I went to Penzoil when I went to alcohol was because the guys I knew running the alcohol classes were all running it even though some were sponsored by other oil brands. I was also told alcohol had a tendency to seperate in other oils but not so in Penzoil. Lot of the fuel guys ran Kendall also. That was back when Kendall was the "green" oil.
Known a ton of guys who ran Valvoline racing oil for the gas stuff. The motors always looked good.
Never went to any synthetics. Chevron Supreme in my passenger has always done the job.
But then there is my Ford Diesel with 240,000 miles and never a valve cover off. Castrol HD 15-40 in that one.
Lot of good oils out there.

[ELIMINAT THIS]

I just freshened my motor up the bearing wear was nothing could have re-used them 202hrs 509 bds 871 (wish i took some pics) There are a lot of good oils out there but i will stick to M-1 for sure after the tear down. :)
J-540 your motor sounds bad a$$ :D

[Beer-30]

Nascar tears their motors down rather frequently I'd imagine.
Good post overall.
I am sure they do. They have plenty of motors to play with. I am not sure of the regs, but some classes must run what they qual'd with. The main purpose of that was, 0wt oil will get a hard working motor around a track a few times. Since that provides adequate lube for that purpose, I don't see the need for extra thick oils. I personally ran a stock 454 carbed motor in a one-ton to 253,000 miles. All it ever had was Valv 10-40 standard. Every 3500 was changed. It was a car carrier with one on the bed and one on the wheel-lift. I hauled 2 cars to LA and back 4 times a week. That's pulling the Grapevine both directions, 4 times a week. Used a qt about every 2K. It was still going when I left.
Of course, clearances have a lot to do with it. A new ZO6 427 has much tighter specs than the old motors.

[JMC]

Well, most motors today, from the factories, request (notice I didn't say require) 5w-30. As long as rings are in good shape, I don't see much slipping past them.
I was talking about blower engines with high overall compression ratio's 13-15:1 +, not factory engines. This thread started about oil for Blower engines and I thought that was what we were discussing. Heck, any basic engine will live favorably off of Johnsons & Johnsons baby oil. :rollside:

[Morg]

Good post overall.
I am sure they do. They have plenty of motors to play with. I am not sure of the regs, but some classes must run what they qual'd with. The main purpose of that was, 0wt oil will get a hard working motor around a track a few times. Since that provides adequate lube for that purpose, I don't see the need for extra thick oils. I personally ran a stock 454 carbed motor in a one-ton to 253,000 miles. All it ever had was Valv 10-40 standard. Every 3500 was changed. It was a car carrier with one on the bed and one on the wheel-lift. I hauled 2 cars to LA and back 4 times a week. That's pulling the Grapevine both directions, 4 times a week. Used a qt about every 2K. It was still going when I left.
Of course, clearances have a lot to do with it. A new ZO6 427 has much tighter specs than the old motors.
We may be talking two different animals "Factory" High performance is one thing, Purpose built race engines are a different deal. If I get 230 deg. running straight 40wt. in 5 miles. I don't think 5/30w would make it that far. & this is just a carbed 427, for now.
BTW, "Junk" is pretty widely used around here. Not at all giving you a bad time.

[Kurtis500]

???? What clearances do you have? .015 running in cold weather?? .040 running in hot weather??

[dossangers]

This is all i have ever ran in my hydro nitrous injected 8500 rpms and now my K very quality stuff different from off the shelf oils but they only sell it thru there distributors NEVER had a bearing issue!!!!http://www.pennzoil.com/products/motor_oil/images/Racing.jpg

[J540]

Good post overall.
I am sure they do. They have plenty of motors to play with. I am not sure of the regs, but some classes must run what they qual'd with. The main purpose of that was, 0wt oil will get a hard working motor around a track a few times. Since that provides adequate lube for that purpose, I don't see the need for extra thick oils. I personally ran a stock 454 carbed motor in a one-ton to 253,000 miles. All it ever had was Valv 10-40 standard. Every 3500 was changed. It was a car carrier with one on the bed and one on the wheel-lift. I hauled 2 cars to LA and back 4 times a week. That's pulling the Grapevine both directions, 4 times a week. Used a qt about every 2K. It was still going when I left.
Of course, clearances have a lot to do with it. A new ZO6 427 has much tighter specs than the old motors.
Beer-30
Sorry about the JUNK thing, in no way was i saying your boat is junk at all, on the contrary your boat is very nice to say the least. I can tell one thing if you had motor wise what i have and runing 18lb, of boost from Needles to Parker dam with 30wt driving your boat like i do or better yet last year i ran 12 weekends 3days ea, and thats just off the top of my head,100+ gal, of fuel ea,weekend 1200+ More on the plus side, and you ran 30wt at RPM, I dont think your Motor will be doing to good.
I under stand what you are saying about your truck, I have a 91 1/2 ton GMC Xcab, with a 91 vett, motor in it with 366.785 mi, on it, Runing Kendall oil (best part) it sometimes was the oil out of my boat cuz i change it every 3 to 4 DAYS out so i would put it in the tk, The last big trip w/the boat and all my junk was too pick up my 1st Excursion Diesel in Vegas, It was 104 in baker and i had it to the floor trying to burn it up well it made it all the way there and back and is still running the trans was swaped out at 97,000 and its still kinda good :D
Any way i kinda took what you said as an attack on me and it maye have seemed like i was knocking M1. not at all we use it in the drives a lot. you just dont need to spend the xtra $ and not get any better result. Kendall is a bit high maybe as to pen, valvoline key is what ever you run change it all time some think iam nutz to do mine so much but look at my bearings and compared to some others with alm,rods an 5yr on them.
I just think M1 would be better in cars/trucks.
but if it seems to work for you keep it up thats cool but dont buy in to that: OH its Synthetic I dont need to chang it for 500hr. etc.
John.

[Beer-30]

Fair enough. Good post.

[J540]

Fair enough. Good post.
Sorry about the For a better lack of words Harsh talk about M1.
Slippery maybe just a better way to understand it thats all.
Also 100% Syn, Trans oil is not good the cluches slip under a hard load.
Any way your Junk looks BAD AZZ :p :D realy it is very nice looking.
well talk to you later
John.

[HP350SC]

Go over to offshoreonly and search on Hydrocruiser's thread(s). This guy is more obsessed with oil than anyone I have seen. Lots of good info.

[Beer-30]

Sorry about the For a better lack of words Harsh talk about M1.
Slippery maybe just a better way to understand it thats all.
Also 100% Syn, Trans oil is not good the cluches slip under a hard load.
Any way your Junk looks BAD AZZ :p :D realy it is very nice looking.
well talk to you later
John.
Oh, now you're just flirting!
I've seen your ride in person at Topock. I must say, it is impressive to see blower surge rock a boat side to side.

[LynnsJet]

That 25-50 Pennzoil is good stuff. It was developed for use with fuel motors. Other oils would foam up when I burned Menthenol in my sprintcar but this stuff was very nice and stable.
It's a little hard to find. Some dealers will swear to you that there is no such thing as 25-50. They obviously don't deal with fuel motors.
L J

[ghittner]

40 wt Valvoline racing.

[Schiada76]

There is a long article in Hot Rod about new motor oil and cam/lifter failure.
Passenger car oil has been reformulated for emissions and cat converter life.
Race oil still has all the additives and protects better. Article references flat tappet cam failure but if it is causing problems at one area can it be good enough for the whole motor? The specific additive that is lacking and causing the failures is zinc, the article even recommends using heavy duty diesel truck oil in muscle cars with flat tappets due to the high zinc content. Pennzoil racing is right up there with them though.

[don johnson]

This is always an interesting topic....
I happen to use royal Purple 20-50. There are a number of benefits to running a multi vis oil over a straight wt. I am no chemist, however I have spoken to many reputable engine builders and most will agree that a multi grade oil is prefered over straight grade if the application allows it. In a boat where we have unlimited cooling capabilities one should be able to set up and equip thier motors where the oil and water temperatures are well contained.
If the only reason one is running a straight 40 or 50 wt oil is because of thermal breakdown I say fix that problem, do not band aid it with oil. A properly built and set up (tuned) motor with an adequate oil cooler should not create the kind of heat to break down your oil.
I run 2 1,100 HP blower motors in my boat at 11 lbs of boost. I will consistently run these motors at 6,000 RPM for extended periods. I never see oil temps beyond 210 degrees no matter how long or hard I run it. Granted I have a HD Teague oil cooler. But the bottom line is if you are building that kind of heat in the oil to break it down you may want to consider adding a cooler or look at the setup or tune of the motor.