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View Full Version : When is it just overkill?



shaun
06-29-2004, 04:22 PM
I'm buying all the stuff i need right now to assemble the bottom end and i'm about to purchase arp bolts for the mains, rods, cam, and oil pump. My first question... Are there any other things on the bottom end (internally) that i should purchase stronger bolts for? I cant think of anything.
Now for the second question, should i purchase the pro series (220,000 psi) or just the standard hi-pref series (190,000 psi). My build up is mild, 454 .060 over, SRP 10.1 (118cc head), stock rods, stock crank, fully balanced, will be probably be running 990 or 188 heads. Cam i'm not sure about yet. I dont plan on every going FI since my compression is a bit high for that and i dont know much about NOS so i'm not sure if i will be able to squeeze on this build if i wanted to (i dont plan on it but who knows).
Also, when should one use studs over bolts? I've been contemplating going with studs for the mains, i have already decided to go with studs for the heads.

Fiat48
06-29-2004, 04:38 PM
Be sure to buy 200,000 psi valve cover bolts also. ARP needs the money. :D
Here's my opinion:
Buy the best rod bolts you can. Unbelievable damage if one fails.
And you must resize the rod when you put in the bolts.
Main bolts/studs. On a BBC main caps walk unless splayed cap (and then maybe they do too). The studs won't keep the main caps from walking. So, I say use bolts. Other's will argue I am sure.
I would do the head studs. They have a little more clamping force and the chevy needs the extra clamping. 190,000 fine.
Rocker studs...you need the ARP's.
Cam bolts I just use grade 8's. Use a locking tab or loctite the bolts. Oil pump stud not a bad idea and inexpensive.

shaun
06-29-2004, 05:04 PM
Fiat,
lol, we dont wan those valve covors to blow off!
If the pro series is the best i can buy then thats what i will buy. I have already and will be spending alot of money on this motor so if it costs me 30 bucks more for somthing that may save the motor i'm all for it! What do you mean that i must resize the rods when using there bolts? How is this done? Does it need to be done by a machinest or is it somthing i can do?
I'm glad i asked about the main caps, i'll be sure to buy bolts for those. Any thing else i can do to keep them from "walking"?

Dave C
06-29-2004, 05:06 PM
although those valve cover studs with a solid cam is the best thing since sliced bread ;)

Fiat48
06-29-2004, 07:30 PM
Just use the Chevrolet bolts that came with the block for the mains. They are good enough. The caps are gonna walk a little (depends on your power). Live with it. I am saying studs won't stop the cap walk.
When you replace the rod bolts in the rods, the new rod bolts may be of slightly different size and the torque (read that as stretch) of the bolt is different and thus the rod end is not round like it was with old weak suck bolts. Critical...take to machine shop.

shaun
06-29-2004, 08:44 PM
how much should i expect the machinest to charge me for resizing the rods?

Fiat48
06-29-2004, 08:51 PM
Probably about $10 a rod.

shaun
06-30-2004, 01:17 PM
Thanks again Fiat! I talked to the machinest today and i'm going to have them resized! Price wasnt too bad, they gave me a break seeing how i've already had a bunch of work done with them.
One other question, I'm going to stick with the standard main bolts but should i replace them with stock ones or can i reuse the old ones?

Fiat48
06-30-2004, 01:25 PM
Reuse the old ones.

BrendellaJet
06-30-2004, 01:34 PM
Fiat-
Why not replace these pieces?

Fiat48
06-30-2004, 01:48 PM
Why replace main bolts? Not much to go wrong with the originals and they are about as good as you can buy. Torque 110 ft lbs. Never seen a main bolt break. Nor stretch. But I have seen main studs stretch. Even ARP's finest.

shaun
06-30-2004, 01:54 PM
Thanks fiat, thats what i was concerned about was about them stretching. If they dont need to be replaced then i'll just reuse them.