olds 455 and berkeley jet maintenance

[dekmaster]

Hi All,
Can you guys give me an aproximate maint. schedule for my 455 olds and berkely jet. Things such how often to put grease in the U joints, when to put oil in the bowl and what kind, and also how often to change the oild and filter in the engine and also what type of oil and filter to use.
Thanks,
Dennis

[Wet Dream]

Hi Deck,
Thats all going to depend on your use...or abuse.
I change the oil quite often. About every 10 hours or if I see a pressure drop that doesn't come back.
Change the filter in between oil changes, and with every oil change.
Grease the U-joints and thrust bearing every time you go out or come back, along with your bearing buddies.
Top off the oil in your bowl after every trip.
Personally I probably change my 455 oil a little too much, but I feel better that way. As soon as it begins to change color, it gets one more weekend and I suck out 9 quarts and pump in 9 more.
For oil I usually use Valvoline VR1 50 wt when the water warms up. And I use a remote filter, so I use AC Delco PF2 I believe. Use any filter OTHER THAN A FRAM!!!!

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

Originally posted by Wet Dream
Hi Deck,
Thats all going to depend on your use...or abuse.
I change the oil quite often. About every 10 hours or if I see a pressure drop that doesn't come back.
Change the filter in between oil changes, and with every oil change.
Grease the U-joints and thrust bearing every time you go out or come back, along with your bearing buddies.
Top off the oil in your bowl after every trip.
Personally I probably change my 455 oil a little too much, but I feel better that way. As soon as it begins to change color, it gets one more weekend and I suck out 9 quarts and pump in 9 more.
For oil I usually use Valvoline VR1 50 wt when the water warms up. And I use a remote filter, so I use AC Delco PF2 I believe. Use any filter OTHER THAN A FRAM!!!!
i am 100% witcha on this one wet;) I do the same for my olds except I run valvoline 60wt.
396

[dekmaster]

How do you top off the oil in the bowl?
I have agrease gun that I just bought and some marine grease. How much are you supposed to pump in?
Also where do you guys buy your oil, grease, filter and oil pump?
Thank You,
dennis

[Back Forty]

Why such heavy weight oil...?
Do you guys run oil coolers..?
I've been running 10/30 castrol and the NAPA/Wix 1049. (long housing)
Oil cooler too. I change mine several times a season as well and have had no problems.
Dekmaster, did you get the carb issue resolved? is your setup running the oil cooler?

[Frosty_pop]

Originally posted by dekmaster
Hi All,
Can you guys give me an aproximate maint. schedule for my 455 olds and berkely jet. Things such how often to put grease in the U joints, when to put oil in the bowl and what kind, and also how often to change the oild and filter in the engine and also what type of oil and filter to use.
Thanks,
Dennis
Step 1: Remove 455 and put in trash
Step 2: Install 454 with fresh oil and filter
Step 3: Have a great trouble free summer

[dekmaster]

I think i'll finish the season with current setup. I'm really beginning to understand this engine and it's really hauling now once I started craping up to the redline instead of just punching it. I've been getting up to 4700 RPM for a couple of seconds and really starts to go fast and screams. I had 6 people in the boat and 3 more in a tube. It took a little while to plain out butt it was still a hell of a tube ride at 50 mph.
Thanks,
Dennis
P.S. Can some one tell me where I can get all of the above mention parts for my boat maintenance.

[ssanddemon]

Jesus, Forty. Dunno you want to be using 10-30, it's pretty thin for high rpm use. I think everyone is in the straight 40-to-60 weight group (though with the 455 oil return issues, I'll let a pro weigh in here). Heard good things about oil coolers, but think I'll wait until I've got an oil temp guage and see if it needs one, probably does. Deck, the easiest way to drain oil is the kit (from CP, I think) that lets you attach a hose to the pan plug and leave it flopping around in the bilge until changing time, then it snakes out the bilge drain plug and into your oil drain pan. My boat came with it, and it's great! I have heard of guys running a Holley electric fuel pump off the hose to suck the oil out quicker, but I'm never in that big a hurry. I get my maintainence parts from the local speed shop, NAPA works just as well, but farther away from me. Bowl oil: pull both plugs, pour it in until it comes out the other plug. Grease: use lots, every other trip or so; couple of pumps does the job. Not sure about marine though; -it's kinda waxy. Some guys like lithium, I like moly. I think it all works if it actually gets used in a timely manner.

[Back Forty]

Stating from a non professional background, oil provides quite a bit of cooling to valvetrain and other areas of the engine. I would rather have more temp maintained(oil cooler) 10/30wt flowing in my system than overheated heavy weight oil that isn't doing anything for cooling. As long as it supports the lower end which if not overheated and clearances are right it should be able to do without a problem.
I just added a thermostat and may switch up to 10/40wt now that the thing will actually run at 160*. I think 50 or 60 wt oil is going in the wrong direction if you have an oil cooler and a bandaid if you don't have one. For clairifcation, I have crappy electric gauges with water temp and oil pressure but no oil temp. Pure logic dictates that counting on a heavy weight oil to thin down to an acceptable viscosity after it is overheated is asking for problems and is not the answer to a problem if there is one.
On the Olds side of things, simply getting what goes though the oil pump back to the sump at the same rate is most of our concern. I have found that my stock oil return holes have been enlarged. I don't know anything else about the internals of the thing.
I have said it many times. My heap has been run for about 15 minutes at 44-4500 rpms several times and above 4000 for hours on lakes like Cumberland in Ky. It never has oiling issues. I check my oil two or three times a day when I'm out all day and running hard. I also change my oil around three times a season and get (I think) less time on the water than most of you west of the Miss. I don't like overkill because it isn't the answer to any problem and should my plant pop sometime, I'll find the root of the problem and address it. Otherwise at some point another self appointed rebuild will highlight any issues I might be having by running 10/30 or 40wt.
Dekmaster. I get my 80/90wt gear oil from any parts store and fill the pump until it is even from both access ports. I change it about twice a season and leave the plugs loose during the winter in case any moisture in the fluid freezes although I think any expansion in the fluid would just push oil past he seal and not cause any real problems. The zerc fitting grease is a complicated issue it seems. I can't offer anything other than to say your local parts joint or WalMart or dam near any other place that carries the stuff will work. I have been using marine variety grease. It seems to be alright but thats all I have on that.
I think your still having some "basic" carb problems if you have to creep up on full throttle. I can go from idle to full throttle as fast as I can get the throttle rolled over. The thing comes to life as fast. Good luck.
Frosty Pop take your sh!t and get out of here please.

[Back Forty]

TTT

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

Originally posted by Back Forty
Why such heavy weight oil...?
Do you guys run oil coolers..?
I've been running 10/30 castrol and the NAPA/Wix 1049. (long housing)
Oil cooler too. I change mine several times a season as well and have had no problems
Why does circle track drivers run valvoline straight 60??????? Maybe cuz they turn 7500 rpm's for looooong periods of times!
I know they run straight 60 because I work for autozone and I sell it to them! when I run it my oil pressure is right where it supposed to be plus my motor is on the "loose" side so it will live. I live in arizona and our boating temps are around 110 degrees alll summer long. What hapens to oil when it heats up? Same thing as grease does, thins out!
point blank, tight motor thinner oil! Loose motor heavier oil!
Thats why bmw's run 0w-30 because thier motors are tighter than a virgin;)
Just my lil ole 2 pennies though;)
396

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

Originally posted by Frosty_pop
Step 1: Remove 455 and put in trash
Step 2: Install 454 with fresh oil and filter
Step 3: Have a great trouble free summer
Step 1.keep the 455 olds
Step 2. run it alllllllllll summer long while others are fixing thier so called high performance motors!
Step 3. have fun running your olds
Step4. keep the olds and maybe buy a 454 to build on the side WHILE THE 455 OLDS IS STILL RUNNING!
Step 5. If you want to run faster then put the bbc in after its fully built, if ya want to!
Step 6. NEVER PULL OUT A RUNNING MOTOR TO REPLACE IT OR YOU WILL BE KICKING YOURSELF IN THE ASS BECAUSE YOU WONT BE DRIVING YOUR BOAT DURING BOATING SEASON!!!!!!!!!!!!
396

[Back Forty]

Why does circle track drivers run valvoline straight 60??????? Maybe cuz they turn 7500 rpm's for looooong periods of times!
396, you missed the content of my last post... or so it appears. Circle track engine at 7500rpm or maybe 7000 average per lap. nascar or local..? Regardless and read carefully 7500 rpms and maybe... 600 or 700hp...? Lets say 650 and convert to heat dissipation. Thats an average of 484 KW dissipation. Your mild Olds is cranking out xxx for short little blasts..? Lets say you cruise at 4000 or less most of the time which is where the majority of your heat is going to come from. At those rpms your probably dropping about.. 300hp? (total shot in the dark). Thats 223 KW dissipation.
Tell me again how your mild engine is comparable to the circle tracker that comes in to buy oil..?
Also running a loose bottom end doesn't mean you have to keep the oil pressure nose to nose with the stocker readings..? It means you have to increase volume, and oil control not increase the thickness of the oil... ? Healthy oil will support the lower end if there is enough volume. You have still missed the oil as a coolant. You run 60wt oil because once it's hot the pressure comes down to normal... Your baking your stuff man. Your valve train must hate life...
Run an oil cooler with a lower weight oil and you will maintain proper pressure and the oil will be able to keep things cool. The oil won't be breaking down either.
Sorry if I come from a different school of thought but if your going on info that everybody drills into your head over time without ever considering the actual condition, your carrying on trained monkey hot rodding and nobody benefits from that.
I live in arizona and our boating temps are around 110 degrees alll summer long. What hapens to oil when it heats up? Same thing as grease does, thins out!
Who cares about air temps if were talking about water/oil coolers. Whats the water temp..? Oil that is temp maintained is also maintaining the temps of other components of your engine as compared to overheated 60wt which is out of control. I can't see how that is an acceptable situation..?:confused:

[1978 Rogers]

I was told by the guy that rebuilt my pump last year to use a high temp/high pressure grease for the thrust bearing. The Berk. manual says the same thing. He told me to put in a pump every couple of uses. Anyways whats the cost difference for a tube of good grease.

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

Originally posted by Back Forty
396, you missed the content of my last post... or so it appears. Circle track engine at 7500rpm or maybe 7000 average per lap. nascar or local..? Regardless and read carefully 7500 rpms and maybe... 600 or 700hp...? Lets say 650 and convert to heat dissipation. Thats an average of 484 KW dissipation. Your mild Olds is cranking out xxx for short little blasts..? Lets say you cruise at 4000 or less most of the time which is where the majority of your heat is going to come from. At those rpms your probably dropping about.. 300hp? (total shot in the dark). Thats 223 KW dissipation.
Tell me again how your mild engine is comparable to the circle tracker that comes in to buy oil..?
Also running a loose bottom end doesn't mean you have to keep the oil pressure nose to nose with the stocker readings..? It means you have to increase volume, and oil control not increase the thickness of the oil... ? Healthy oil will support the lower end if there is enough volume. You have still missed the oil as a coolant. You run 60wt oil because once it's hot the pressure comes down to normal... Your baking your stuff man. Your valve train must hate life...
Run an oil cooler with a lower weight oil and you will maintain proper pressure and the oil will be able to keep things cool. The oil won't be breaking down either.
Sorry if I come from a different school of thought but if your going on info that everybody drills into your head over time without ever considering the actual condition, your carrying on trained monkey hot rodding and nobody benefits from that.
Who cares about air temps if were talking about water/oil coolers. Whats the water temp..? Oil that is temp maintained is also maintaining the temps of other components of your engine as compared to overheated 60wt which is out of control. I can't see how that is an acceptable situation..?:confused:
Ok so that sounds good maybe in your book of theory. Our air temp is 110 and the water in our lake is 80 degrees!!!!! And by the way, my theory comes from my experience and not what other tell me! I can nail my olds all day long at wot and it will NOT blow up. Believe me I tried when I was on my way back to the ramp with a 2ft crack in my hull!!!! I wanted to blow it up but it wouldnt die! I voiced my opinion about what I run in my olds. i didnt tell anybody to do exactly what I did. i learned by blowing up 2 olds motors within 3 months! I did my homework and now I have a great running motor! Thats just my opinion on the oil situation for MY 455 olds. my olds holds 65lbs of oil pressure all day looong;)
On another note I will be running straight 40 in my bbc where an oiling issue is not a factor;)
AGAIN, Just my OPINION.
396

[Back Forty]

Believe me I tried when I was on my way back to the ramp with a 2ft crack in my hull!!!!
:D :D :D
;)

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

Glad to see ya smiling:D :D :D :D No hard feelings brotha;)
Yeah and the crack thing started in havazooooo, Damn rough ass water:mad:
396

[Wet Dream]

Now I have my own little oil issues, but it doesn't seem to be hurting. Straight 40wt, fresh motor, melling hv pump, clearances set .0025 rods and .0030 mains. 9qt pan. Oil cooler and this is the 1st year for the oil temp gauge. After break in and 2 oil and filter changes, this is what I'm getting:
52 psi cold idle
As I run the oil gets warmer and the pressure begins to drop. After a good cruise, the oil pressure at 3200 is 32psi. Acceptable so it seems and running 200*.
Then as the oil gets toward 230*, the oil pressure is 22-25 psi and. I'm thinking the oil itself is getting thinner than what I want.
Here's the kicker...at hot idle, 230-240*....9 to 12 psi.
Nothing ticking in the valvetrain at all, runs smooth.
When it cools completely, fire it up and 52psi cold idle.
The pressure readings were taken with both a mechanical and electrical gauge.
I usually run a straight 50 wt, VR1.
This is a Shell brand 40.

[Back Forty]

396, :) I saw the obvious friction coming from my posts. I saw your effort to keep things in check. http://v8buick.com/images/smilies/beers.gif
Wet Dream
Thats about right believe it or not. Your a touch on the loose side, running a hv pump, 40wt oil, 52 psi when cold and after a full heating of the oil your down to the 20s. What is your pressure at idle after it is properly hot?
High pressure doesn't mean correct with all other things in the picture. The little chevies that like a lot of pressure have very small journal surfaces compared to the big Olds. Lower pressure readings do not mean your starving oil at the bearings. It sounds like your moving plenty of oil at the lower end. Have you noticed any drop outs on your pressure gauge?

[Wet Dream]

No, no drops on the pressure at any running. Even at a full blown run. I enlarged the drainbacks quite a bit. The oil pressure at hot idle is 9-12.

[Back Forty]

I think if you keep the oil changed properly you'll be fine.

[berk]

why straight grades not multi like 10w-40? or delo 15-40?