Shoe and rideplate ?'s

[Bryan Rose]

Well I have been thinking about tis for a while and thought I would finally ask. At what speed do you really have to have a shoe? Those of you out there how fast did you go before hitting the wall with no shoe. The reason I ask this is I have a duel carb cheater system brand new in the box sitting in the warehouse and am considering putting it on the boat. or should I not waste my time untill I shoe it? Educate me...
The boat runs a solid 80 now on GPS and have had it to 82.3 on a perfect day, all this with no shoe on the boat. 5400 - 5500 revs Spinning an impellar a skoche down from a full A
I do have a Place ride plate that installed under the droop and when I first put it on anything over about 30mph and the whole plate was out of the water, I installed a 3/4 inch piece of aluminum the lenght of the mounting plate to lower it . It now sits about 1/4 inch above the bottom of the transom at the leading edge and it now seems to help the boat nose over sooner... getting on plane the plate is set at 2.3 degrees up from the keel centerline. Seems to work ok here, Am I right in the assumption all this plate really does is keep my gear from running in the water creating drag? or what ... So
So back to the ? is it worth installing and squeezing it with a 150 shot hoping for more speed and rev's or will the pump just run out of water and cavitate... I am already running a laoder grate from Hi-Tech and I think it works Anyone understand what I am asking here.
And finally thanks for all the help in the past here is the pic of the rideplate.http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/766DSC01773-med.JPG

[BrendellaJet]

I have read before that those plates are a waste of money. For a ride plate to do any good it needs to attach to the shoe as well. I would go with a ride plate/shoe before installing the nos. I've read that you need a rideplate/shoe for anything going faster than 70, although you seem to have done fine without it.
Is the intake set back, or can it be set back more than an anch or two? If not may not be worth while? I bet you could gain a few mph with a set back and a shoe/ride plate. If you want to do it yourself I can send you some pics of how I did mine. Jack and Hammerdown really helped me out and I took really good notes.

[UBFJ #454]

Pray tell, just what is the function of the steel braid line from the transom plate to the "Ride Plate"?

[Bryan Rose]

oil cooler pick , up for force feeding oil cooler

[MudPumper]

Originally posted by BEAR_454PE
Pray tell, just what is the function of the steel braid line from the transom plate to the "Ride Plate"?
I was wondering the same thing.
?????

[UBFJ #454]

ooOh Kaayee -

[Squirtin Thunder]

So its a water injected oil cooler ???? Hummmmm doesn't that make a milkshake (Chocolate) ?????
COOL !!!!!!!!!!
Jim

[rssfla]

looks like that oil cooler line works like a drive shower on an io
that probabally shaves about a 1/2 a mph off!
why not use the water from the pump for the oil cooler? I'm asking because i am about to rig my prpject boat and i did buy an oil cooler for it. Was planning on plumbing it in right after the pressure regulator.

[Bryan Rose]

The reason I plumbed it the way I did was so I do not always have water cooling the oil, where we run in the south most of the lakes never get over 80 dergrees, not that it matters but just idleing getting warmed up I do not want to cool the oil, The only time I want water going to the cooler is under hard running, therefor I chose not to plumb it from the pump. Temps never get over 240 after a hard run plumbed the way it is and oil temp comes up to operating temp sooner= better lubrication
Sounds good anyway. thats my story
Bryan

[UBFJ #454]

Can't fault you logic ... Not a bad idea ... But I'd move the intake off the ride plate ... Maybe build a bracket allowing the intake position to be somewhere similar ... Ride plates just too touchy ... Probably should also strengthen it along its top w/angle AL.
Just thinking out load.

[BrendellaJet]

Originally posted by Bryan Rose
I do have a Place ride plate that installed under the droop and when I first put it on anything over about 30mph and the whole plate was out of the water, I installed a 3/4 inch piece of aluminum the lenght of the mounting plate to lower it . It now sits about 1/4 inch above the bottom of the transom at the leading edge and it now seems to help the boat nose over sooner... getting on plane the plate is set at 2.3 degrees up from the keel centerline. Seems to work ok here, Am I right in the assumption all this plate really does is keep my gear from running in the water creating drag? or what ... So
I think the plate will be more effective if it were lower than the transom. Custom ride plates mount to the back of the shoe. The very rear of the shoe is supposed to be even with the keel to start(can be adjusted deeper with shims if more bite is needed) On most of the boats I have looked at, the rear of the shoe actually hung lower than the keel, therefore your ride plate being 1/4 inch above the transom is potentially 3/8 to a 1/2 inch higher than it should be.
To check I would study the orientation of the rear of your intake to the keel(note-not a perfect point of reference because you dont have an actual shoe)-if the intake is not even with the keel, Id say you dont have a perfectly installed intake. If your goal is more speed(seems like it is) then you may want to consider removing to reset. While you're at it do the setback and add the shoe/ride plate. This way you can blueprint the install of the intake and KNOW that its set right. From there you will be able to tweak your ride plate and shoe settings for max speed.
If you check the intake to keel placement and it is close enough for you, leave it be, but id still try to get that ride plate to match the bottom of the transom atleast, but like I said, it may be too high here too.
Can you provide some close up pics of your intake from the bottom?

[BrendellaJet]

oh yeah, I dig the oil cooler set up. Looks kinda trick!

[Squirtcha?]

http://www.placediverter.com/media/newghostie.jpg
I tried one before having my pump set back and a proper shoe etc. installed. There's very little adjustability to it. It will help you plane out quicker, and may help to keep your hardware from draggin in the water, but that's about it.
When I was running the PD droop like you have there Bryan, I found that it was the slowest when installed without any wedging. I wedged both up and down and either way, it ended up being faster than with no wedge installed. After much experimentation, I ended up using 3 degrees of up wedge between the bowl and the droop. That coupled with some rideplate adjustments, resulted in about a 3 mph gain.
You should be proud running 80 mph. I think with a proper shoe and rideplate (and all the adjustability they bring) there's potential for more without having to add any more horsepower.
In reading your question again.......................
Well I have been thinking about this for a while and thought I would finally ask. At what speed do you really have to have a shoe?
You don't NEED to have a shoe installed. It will only aid you in the tuning of your ride. Throw the nitrous on there without it if you like. I ran mine with a stock pump for a year (prior to doing the shoe and rideplate). It works just fine.