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Great information, I appreciate you taking the time to do the math on this. I'm surprised to see the 100 hp nos actually worked out in the charts to be 103! I wish I'd thought of the WFO pictures, that would be worth a lot as far as the setup goes. The seasons over here, the colder than normal temperatures this month had everyone draining blocks early. As far as the engine goes it came with the boat. Compression..don't know yet, it does have forged pistons, and the big oval ports. I pulled it and put on a Bassett/Dooley pan, tray and good pump in it along with a scrubbin some gaskets and paint. I hadn't planned on using this engine past the baseline tests but now I may run it until next fall . It keeps up with the traffic around here for now. If it gets quiet around here for more than a day in the next few months I'll tear into it to see what it is.
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If you are running in the first notch down from the top for best speed, you need about 2 degrees more wedge between the bowl and the Snoot. This will cause the water to bend the amount that you need at a larger diameter which saves a lot of drag. Then your boat should run it's fastest with the diverter straight out or 1 notch up. Try It and post the results.
Bend the amount that you need at a larger diameter. That makes alot of sense, 6 degrees total. When I talked to you about the snoot last winter I did tell you I was going to add more power and wanted to set it up that way. I'll save this thread and post when it gets a little warmer. Thanks for all of your help on this Duane.
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It seems like most of the good running boats are running between 6 and 9 degrees of wedge with the Snoot. This looks like a lot at first, but when you compare it to a droop, it's not. The droop alone has 6 degrees in it. (depending on which brand you use). A droop + 4 degree wedge = 10 degrees.