got some numbers on the oil clearance numbers you use ? it shure would be very helpfull!
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got some numbers on the oil clearance numbers you use ? it shure would be very helpfull!
Originally posted by 396_WAYS_TO_SPIT
Oh my god, not another olds thread(j/k);) Listen to all of these guys here. We've all been through the olds deal.
This the recipe for my olds.
balance
align hone
arp bolts (mains and rods)
standard volume oil pump(with spring stretch)
oil restricted push rods
10qt oilpan
timing @30 degrees
oiling clearanes-a must!!!!!
and KEEP IT UNDER 5000RPM'S
Thats what I run and she still holds together strong;)
396..........................Spit;)
Maybe everybody is just assuming it is a given, but:
A.
Originally posted by 396_WAYS_TO_SPIT
Oh my god, not another olds thread(j/k);) Listen to all of these guys here. We've all been through the olds deal.
This the recipe for my olds.
balance
align hone
arp bolts (mains and rods)
standard volume oil pump(with spring stretch)
oil restricted push rods
10qt oilpan
timing @30 degrees
oiling clearanes-a must!!!!!
and KEEP IT UNDER 5000RPM'S
Thats what I run and she still holds together strong;)
396..........................Spit;)
In addition to the above. Maybe everybody is just assuming it is a given, but:
A. The crank should be cross drilled, chamfered, and hardened (tufftrided or whatever is the latest greatest methode in your opinion). As someone mentioned Synthetic oil can't hurt. Mines been runnin great for 4 years.
RODS- .020-0.30
MAINS- .025-.035
396_WAYS_TO_SPIT
Uh, dude, aren't you missing some zeros there? thirty thou (.030") of clearance is what you call "rod knock". As for 3 tenths of an inch (.30), well thats likely to have some side effects...odd new crankcase vents and such..
Just kidding man, I know they were typos. Gotta watch 'em, someone who hasn't built an engine before might not know better.
Mike
Instead of oil restricted push rods like many have mentioned. I used restrictors in the lifter bores. You have to drill and tap them which takes a couple hours but they are alot cheaper.
I've heard that restricting hydraulic lifters was not a good idea, but it's the way to go if your running solids.
If I had my way, I wouldn't restrict anything and I'd have 1" stainless lines going from heads to pan. :D
1", good god thats huge. I used 1/2 stainless tubing on mine.
If you use the restricters in #2,3,4 main saddles you dont restrict oil to the lifters. I primed my motor with a drill before startup and it gets tons of oil up top for springs and valves and I use restricted push rods. After 7 years I tore it down and everything is cool inside. 8qt pan, HV pump, cross drill the crank and modify the main bearings. Clearances are critical for an olds to live.
mark , if you use restrictors in #234 and a hv oil pump can i get by with out using restricted push rods ?