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I'm wiring two JL Audio 300/4 amps and one JL Audio 1000/1 amp in my boat. I have read all the posts that I could find, but am not sure if I should:
1. Run three seperate 4 gauge power wires off the common terminal of the Perko switch directly to the amps ((which is within 10 inches of were the amps are mounted)) or
2. Run a seperate 0 gauge cable from the stereo batteries to a circut breaker, and then to a fused distribution block, ((Stereo batteries are approx. 4 feet from the amps)) Also if I run the 0 gauge cable from the stereo batteries, what size circut breaker should I use?
Thanx for the help
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I'm wiring two JL Audio 300/4 amps and one JL Audio 1000/1 amp in my boat. I have read all the posts that I could find, but am not sure if I should:
1. Run three seperate 4 gauge power wires off the common terminal of the Perko switch directly to the amps ((which is within 10 inches of were the amps are mounted)) or
2. Run a seperate 0 gauge cable from the stereo batteries to a circut breaker, and then to a fused distribution block, ((Stereo batteries are approx. 4 feet from the amps)) Also if I run the 0 gauge cable from the stereo batteries, what size circut breaker should I use?
Thanx for the help
I have a 2000 W system (1x1000 class D and 1 250x4) w/ 2 12's and 10 tweeters and 4 6x9's running off my 2nd battery. What works well to avoid distortion is use the 0 gauge, and then to the distribution block.
I am not sure of the circut breaker, let me get back to you with the BEST possible setup from one of my specialists at Tweeter.
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let me get back to you with the BEST possible setup from one of my specialists at Tweeter.
With your who?
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With your who?
One of my good friends is an audio guru....
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Which Tweeter?
In palm desert
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In palm desert
Maybe I've heard of him, what's his name?
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Is he one of the 12v specialists or a home audio guy?
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Interesting... How does he like working there and where did he work before?
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Interesting... How does he like working there and where did he work before?
Uh, WTF are you asking all these ??'s Who cares? Jeesus you want his # or something?
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1. Run three seperate 4 gauge power wires off the common terminal of the Perko switch directly to the amps ((which is within 10 inches of were the amps are mounted)) or
Don't tell me you're mounting the amps in the engine compartment
:(
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Uh, WTF are you asking all these ??'s Who cares? Jeesus you want his # or something?
Oh, BTW, he loves his job.
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Just curious as to who he is, that's all... I work in Tweeter's West Coast Regional Office....
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Just curious as to who he is, that's all... I work in Tweeter's West Coast Regional Office....
Oh AWESOME! I bet you are getting KILLER deals right now, right? With the liquidation?
I started in 12v installs wayyy back in the day.... but My small town circut city was too ghetto to have any FUN installs.
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Not me... The product can't be transfered down here, so it's first come first serve to those who walk into a liquidating store...
Besides when you work for a place like this, each MFG issues special pricing to the retailer's employees... Usually it's below actual cost..
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Not me... The product can't be transfered down here, so it's first come first serve to those who walk into a liquidating store...
Besides when you work for a place like this, each MFG issues special pricing to the retailer's employees... Usually it's below actual cost..
True, and I doubt you would be NEEDING anything anyways.... So does this mean you will be having a new job title in the near future?
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My division was thinned, but isn't going anywhere...
I'll be sure to tell the boys in training Mike loves his job. Saif will be especially pleased...
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The amps are mounted behind the rear seat on a false wall seperate from the engine compartment.
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There going to get hot not enough air flow! :cool:
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I've been considering fans, since mine are behind a seat, enclosed.
Maybe I am crazy, but I would think I would need (as would anyone) to make sure there is an intake and exhaust for the fan to work at all. Just spinning the hot air around is not going to do much if anything at all, right?
It would need to be treated just like the engine compartment. Intake vent(s) and exhaust(s) with the blower.
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There going to get hot not enough air flow! :cool:
100% correct. I would definitely not reccomend putting them into the engine compartment, fans or not... It's going to get really humid in there, and you'll freak everytime the hatch is open and someone is trying to put things into or pull things out of the under hatch storage. Just not a good idea.
IF you must, definitely figure out a way to seal them from the engine compartment. Install fans in a push/pull mechanism veting from bottom on one side and venting out the side of the other.. Also make sure you make the cover easily removeable, otherwise it will be a pain in the ass to service the amps.
Since the amps are so close to the batteries, you could go with a 2 perko system and run 3 fused 4ga powercables from the common on the perko to power the amps. You're going to have to use 3 4ga ground to a dist block then run a 2ga cable from there to your grounding point.
Fans! Fans! Fans!
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I've been considering fans, since mine are behind a seat, enclosed.
Maybe I am crazy, but I would think I would need (as would anyone) to make sure there is an intake and exhaust for the fan to work at all. Just spinning the hot air around is not going to do much if anything at all, right?
It would need to be treated just like the engine compartment. Intake vent(s) and exhaust(s) with the blower.
Yes and no... The object is to move air over the amp's to help dissipate the heat off the amps heatsinks. Even if the air is hot, as long as it's movice the air off the heatsinks, the job is being done...
The problem with the blowers is they can be somewhat noisey.. It would work very well, though! :D
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should the fans be mounted above the amps with the air being blown into the heatsinks. I think I can direct air flow into the compartment, It actually is not the engine compartment, it is between the engine compartment wall and the rear seat.
Thanx
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From bottom to top or from side to side will both work well... You can even put 2 fans on one side and have just exhaust vents on the other... You'll move a lot of air that way....
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Quick question, what are you running for power supply??
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Can't wait to hear the new system. I will be running the same amp set up in my new boat. :D
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Yes and no... The object is to move air over the amp's to help dissipate the heat off the amps heatsinks. Even if the air is hot, as long as it's movice the air off the heatsinks, the job is being done...
The problem with the blowers is they can be somewhat noisey.. It would work very well, though! :D
Not true!!!! You must have an intake and exhaust. The only reason for this not to be true is if you are never going to run the system long enough to heat up the cubic area the amps are mounted in. When the air moves over the fins it is transferring heat from the amp to the ambient air. Once this air is above the recommended temp for the amps you have problems.
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I'm running 4 interstate marine batteries, hopefully will be enough.
Should the amps be mounted like: 300/4 300/4
1000/1
Fan Fan
Blowing upward
Or LIke this: 300/4 1000/1 300/4
Fan Fan
Blowing upward
And If I run one 0 gauge cable from the battery to a fused distribution block, what size circut breaker would I want 18 inches from the battery? The amps fuses are 40amp for each of the 300/4 and 100amp for the 1000/1. Or would it be better to and another Perfko switch and come off of the switch with 0 gauge cable to a distribution block? Anyone know of where I may be able to find a wiring diagram showing something like this?
Thanks :rollside:
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Not true!!!! You must have an intake and exhaust. The only reason for this not to be true is if you are never going to run the system long enough to heat up the cubic area the amps are mounted in. When the air moves over the fins it is transferring heat from the amp to the ambient air. Once this air is above the recommended temp for the amps you have problems.
If you read a couple posts up I posted this:
"From bottom to top or from side to side will both work well... You can even put 2 fans on one side and have just exhaust vents on the other... "
Intake from the ventillated engine compartment or side panels and exhausting will be enough. The air would not be recirculated. My point was that air vent from the outside of the boat isn't necessary.... Besides, it would have to be REALLY hot form ambient moving air temps to equal the clipping temps of the amp.... If that was the case, he could bake tater tots in his amp rack while sitting in the channel :D
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Sorry.....Didnt see that. The way I was reading it, he was installing amps in a separate area behind the seats (Not part of the engine area). As far as the tater tots go maybe a built in oven is an option no one has thought of. :)
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The amps are in a seperate compartment ((not the engine compartment))
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And If I run one 0 gauge cable from the battery to a fused distribution block, what size circut breaker would I want 18 inches from the battery? The amps fuses are 40amp for each of the 300/4 and 100amp for the 1000/1. Or would it be better to and another Perfko switch and come off of the switch with 0 gauge cable to a distribution block? Anyone know of where I may be able to find a wiring diagram showing something like this?
Thanks :rollside:
I'd run a second Perko so you can turn the amp's power supply off when the boat is stored. Otherwise, you're going to have to trip the circuit breaker, pull the fuse, etc.
The size wire and fuse requirements are all determined by the max current draw and length. The 0 guage will work fine, but put the circuit breaker as close to the Perko as possible.
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I'd run a second Perko so you can turn the amp's power supply off when the boat is stored. Otherwise, you're going to have to trip the circuit breaker, pull the fuse, etc.
The size wire and fuse requirements are all determined by the max current draw and length. The 0 guage will work fine, but put the circuit breaker as close to the Perko as possible.
Do I just add up all the amperage of all three amps? ((100amp + 40amp+ 40 amp = 180amp circut breaker?)) and is it poss. to run a 0 gauge cable off the perko switch? Why wouldn't I run the 0 gauge cable off the original perko switch common instead of adding an additional perko switch? And finally if I have to add the additional perko switch, do I link the battery two terminal to the 2nd perko switch common? Sorry for all the questions, just want it right
thank you
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Do I just add up all the amperage of all three amps? ((100amp + 40amp+ 40 amp = 180amp circut breaker?)) and is it poss. to run a 0 gauge cable off the perko switch? Why wouldn't I run the 0 gauge cable off the original perko switch common instead of adding an additional perko switch? And finally if I have to add the additional perko switch, do I link the battery two terminal to the 2nd perko switch common? Sorry for all the questions, just want it right
thank you
Yes, you can add up the amp draw needs of each amp and buy your wire accordingly (think of the wire as a pipeline- you don't want too small of pipes).
Your wire requirements should be based on the max the amps will draw (bigger is always better), but the circuit breaker is a saftey net in case of a failure (meltdown, grounding, etc.). I always choose a safe circuit breaker, that will trip before the 0 gauge melts. Also, it doesn't necessarily have to be the cummulitive draw of the amps at failure- just enough to keep it from tripping under full load.
The same holds true for the distribution block fuses- make sure they burn before the wire would heat up.
As for the Perko, there are several ways depending on what you are after. 0 gauge can be hooked to the Perko (it's not easy if you need tight bends, but it can be done).
You can run your 0 gauge off your original Perko. However, if you do that, keep in mind that the same battery(s) that are driving the stereo are also being charged by the alternator, driving the accessories, etc.
