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I am going to buy my rocker arms this week and I need to know what type of rocker arms to get. What are the pros and cons on certain rockers. I have a bbc 454 @ .30 over with 9 to 1 comp in my jetboat. Everyone keeps telling me to buy stainless from comp. Is it worth the $258.00 bones. I want something very reliable and good without spending over $300.00. Any info would be greately appreciated.
I've got the crane they work well for me. They help alot with the oil temp, If I had to get new ones I'd use the comp cams rockers.
I don't know if you need the s.s. ones but what I would look for is a large trunion/bearing area. That is where the cheepo Harlin Sharp and the like seem to break. I got mine from Clay Smith and they have freaking HUGE trunions and can be completely rebuilt. Comp makes some nice ones too. Don't skimp because if they do break it will drop the lil needles bearings in your engine and they'll go straight to your oil pump.
I use speedpro, never had a problem.
spend the money and run the crane gold 1.7 ratio rockers.you won't be sorry you spent the money.like the fram saying"you can pay me now!,or pay me later"!!
if you are on the rocker thing anyway, the comp stainles are the ticket,, look at the 1.8 to one ratio, on most smaller cams they can be worth 10 -- 15 hp over the 1.7, if you can stand the valve to piston clearance.
we have done this test a halve dozen times with same results..
steve brule
I have about a hundred hours on a set of Crane gold rockers.No problems.
Craig
The Comp Stainless are worth the money !!!
Crower Stainless is what I run in my truck and I rev the dog piss out of it. 460 with NOTHING stock though. Expensive but worth it IMHO.
The Almighty Omnipotent One,
The Neuman
Jesel Shaft rockers...Very Expensive, but worth it. I had 3 lifters go south Beat the snot out of the cam the lifter bore but the rocker still looked new.
MikeW
I spoke with a guy yesterday from cali who sell jet parts and he said I can run a good roller tip in my bbc and i can get as good results as full roller rocker arms. He even said I could even buy factory gm roller tips and still be good. what do you guys think? By the way thak you all for the info!
The thing to watch with the Crane gold rollers is the clearance around the retainers. If you are running anything bigger than a stock spring or retainer, they tend to rub on the underside of the rocker arm... About 15 out of 16 on my 468 have done it. Harland Sharps are built differently so there isn't that problem.
And he probably had a set there for a great price too !!! Get a good set of roller rockers if you're planning on keeping the motor for any length of time
"he said I can run a good roller tip in my bbc and i can get as good results as full roller rocker arms"
It is my understanding the primary advantage to roller rockers is reduced friction and consistant lift ratio throughout the travel range. So with roller tips, you may gain the advantage of consistant lift, but still lose some HP due to pivot friction.
I just wonder why some of you choose stainless rollers over aluminum? I can see a possible advantage in longevity but with the increase in wear on the valve spring? I have never placed stainless in the valve train for weight reasons & always tried to keep the reciprocating weight down in the entire valve train so as not to fatigue the valve springs. Does anyone have a weight comparison of a stainless RR verses aluminum? High quality aluminum gets my vote.
Stainless is heavier......and just as light. The way they design them is so the stainless is dynamically "light", i.e., it takes very little energy to accelerate them. But, they are heavier if you put them on a scale. One bad thing about aluminum rockers is this: as aluminum is fatigue cycled it work hardens VERY quickly compared to stainless and becomes brittle. Brittle is supposed to be made with peanut, not chunks of rocker in an oil pan. Am I saying aluminum is the devil? No, just has a few weaknesses. All in all, aluminum rockers work well but I'd go with stainless for the extra strength.
Mister460, where do you derive your knowledge and experience in engine building? And how long?
Been building engines for about 7 years. I worked for two years building everything from hot rod chainsaws to sprint car motors. Then I joined the Marine Corps. I've taken some physics classes (aside from high school), big diesel mech skul for a year, metallurgy classes, and such. Hope this helps.
Ive had the Crane Gold and now have the Comp SS. cant tell a difference between either and they both work great! http://free.***boat.net/ubb/biggrin.gif Just a personal choice i guess. http://free.***boat.net/ubb/smile.gif
-Wally
A full roller rocker will reduce the amount of HP needed to turn the engine over, lower coefficient of friction. So I don't see how anyone could say that a roller tip rocker would be the same as a full roller model. The next thing is with less stress on your system a full roller system should last longer. The Stainless rockers generally are much smaller, and are profile milled to reduce the weight. They do not need to be as large since the stainless is a stronger material. Aluminum rockers work fine I choose to use Stainless on marine applications since marine motors spend more time at a constant high RPM high load situation than most other applications. The Stainless will give better longevity without any major problems due to weight.