Starter solenoid

I have a separate starter solenoid mounted just above the flywheel on my 454 and I'm just getting a click from it when I turn the key. No juice to the starter. Is most likely just a dead solenoid? Maybe no ground? Also what is the point of this as opposed to the solenoid mounted on the starter?

I have a separate starter solenoid mounted just above the flywheel on my 454 and I'm just getting a click from it when I turn the key. No juice to the starter. Is most likely just a dead solenoid? Maybe no ground? Also what is the point of this as opposed to the solenoid mounted on the starter?
Could be any of those things.
Here's a link to thread that tells you more about what they're for. (http://www.***boat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129856)

Try a jumper cable from the batt side of the extra solinoid to the large batt connection at the starter, then a smaller,(10ga.)jumper from that lg terminal to the small terminal marked "S".(just touch it, briefly) The starter should work.(Small wire MAY get HOT if there is a dead short in the starter). If it doesn't crank, the problem isn't with the top mounted solinoid, it is in the actual starter. That second (extra) solinoid is being used as a relay, and would allow that harness to be used on a variety of engine types that may require that remote solinoid. If the starter works fine when you go around it, you COULD eliminate it from the circuit and just use the GM type solinoid wired directly from the battery.........MP

Try a jumper cable from the batt side of the extra solinoid to the large batt connection at the starter, then a smaller,(10ga.)jumper from that lg terminal to the small terminal marked "S".(just touch it, briefly) The starter should work.(Small wire MAY get HOT if there is a dead short in the starter). If it doesn't crank, the problem isn't with the top mounted solinoid, it is in the actual starter. That second (extra) solinoid is being used as a relay, and would allow that harness to be used on a variety of engine types that may require that remote solinoid. If the starter works fine when you go around it, you COULD eliminate it from the circuit and just use the GM type solinoid wired directly from the battery.........MP
first off thank for the diagram rex...
SO, what i got from that was that the reason for aux solenoid is to avoid the high temps and to get the most from the battery to the starter by taking a shorter route? Kinda confused on why this helps tho since you still have to go thrrough the main solenoid which IS in the high temps still.

The relay allows you to run a larger wire as a switch leg down to the starter
solenoid. The larger wire is less susceptible to resitance created by heat.
A ford relay is a good one for this job.

Try a jumper cable from the batt side of the extra solinoid to the large batt connection at the starter, then a smaller,(10ga.)jumper from that lg terminal to the small terminal marked "S".(just touch it, briefly) The starter should work.(Small wire MAY get HOT if there is a dead short in the starter). If it doesn't crank, the problem isn't with the top mounted solinoid, it is in the actual starter. That second (extra) solinoid is being used as a relay, and would allow that harness to be used on a variety of engine types that may require that remote solinoid. If the starter works fine when you go around it, you COULD eliminate it from the circuit and just use the GM type solinoid wired directly from the battery.........MP
ok so i'm basically hooking 2 jumpers to the + side of the main starter solenoid: one going to the + side of the relay solenoid, and one going to the S wire.... is that right? creating a loop sort of? well, i did that and all i'm getting is a click still. sounds like a click from each solenoid but no firing of the starter. am i looking at a bad starter?

Pat,
Just left you a message on your cell. The ground wire that runs to the block is loose. Call my cell and Ill walk you through it.
Shawn

Pat,
Just left you a message on your cell. The ground wire that runs to the block is loose. Call my cell and Ill walk you through it.
Shawn
Could also be the brush end bushing. Try pulling the end plate and rotating it 180*. This puts the worn "gravity" side up, and may help the starter turn. If this helps, don't consider it fixed, change the starter at your first convience. And as stated, the ground is as important as the hot..........MP

first off thank for the diagram rex...
SO, what i got from that was that the reason for aux solenoid is to avoid the high temps and to get the most from the battery to the starter by taking a shorter route? Kinda confused on why this helps tho since you still have to go thrrough the main solenoid which IS in the high temps still.
The traditional stock wiring in many boats runs the power to the starter solenoid clear from the back of the boat to the key switch and back. Over time small amounts of corrosion set in and voltage drop beyond what it takes to click the Chevy starter solenoid occurs. Heat adds to the equation, hence many times they act up only when hot.
The slave solenoid removes that long run from the Chevy solenoid circuit and it takes much less voltage to click a slave solenoid than the stock Chevy starter solenoid.

The traditional stock wiring in many boats runs the power to the starter solenoid clear from the back of the boat to the key switch and back. Over time small amounts of corrosion set in and voltage drop beyond what it takes to click the Chevy starter solenoid occurs. Heat adds to the equation, hence many times they act up only when hot.
The slave solenoid removes that long run from the Chevy solenoid circuit and it takes much less voltage to click a slave solenoid than the stock Chevy starter solenoid.
EXACTLY............

Yes indeed!..

well i tried the jumpers and it wasn't the ground wire being loose. still just getting a click at the solenoids when i hit it. is my next step to get the starter tested?

Ok i just picked up a new relay solenoid since they're cheap and it wasn't it. Still just getting that lame-ass click when i turn the key. I guess it's time to pull the starter and get it tested? Any suggestions? Also, is there a way to hook up a tester to the starter's wiring to see if i'm getting juice to them?

Try this old backyard test. Have someone hold the key over to start position (not forever). Then tap on the starter with a hammer.
If it starts you need to have the starter worked on or replace it. It has brush or armature issues.
Also you can put a voltmeter on the starter lug that goes into the top of the starter to check for juice when you turn the key. Obviously the ground lead of the voltmeter needs to go to ground. If you're not seeing voltage there you may just have a solenoid issue. You can also jump from the bat to that same large starter lug. It should spin like a mofo. Clear the area of any fuel fumes first though because it will arc.

Stupid thought.... could be the battery. Seen this exact thing happen on my old 455 olds jet boat. Battery powered everything but not enough juice to turn over the starter.

K well I'll try those things this week and see how it goes. Thanx guys.

Got a new starter... fires up beautifully! Thanx guys.