How do I wire this thing? I've got the switch, but I didn't look at it before I tore the wiring out of the boat. Switch is normally off and up and down on the switch raise & lower the hatch. There are 6 connectors on the back of the switch. Help!
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How do I wire this thing? I've got the switch, but I didn't look at it before I tore the wiring out of the boat. Switch is normally off and up and down on the switch raise & lower the hatch. There are 6 connectors on the back of the switch. Help!
That looks pretty simple, why didn't I think of that? Thank you!
Old squirt, would the same setup apply to my fuel gauge? Running 2 tanks, each with a sending unit and one gauge. I've got the switch..., 6 terminals...
Old squirt, would the same setup apply to my fuel gauge? Running 2 tanks, each with a sending unit and one gauge. I've got the switch..., 6 terminals...
Yes, you can use a double-pole switch. Common (guage) goes in the center- the tank sending units go on the other poles. That way, whichever tank you flip the switch to, the gauge will read it.
The other set of terminals can be used to trip the solenoid for the tank changeover valve.
Although that diagram will work, it is strongly suggested that you use a pair of relays, preferably as close to the ram as possible, and it's all but necessary if your hatch is really heavy. I'll try to figure out how to draw you a schematic....
Although that diagram will work, it is strongly suggested that you use a pair of relays, preferably as close to the ram as possible, and it's all but necessary if your hatch is really heavy. I'll try to figure out how to draw you a schematic....
It was wired without the relays before, but if you could draw a schematic for me Ducky that would be killer.
Sorry it took so long. I forgot....
The wires to and from the switch, and the ground wires connected to the #86 terminals on the relays are low current and only need to be 16 or 18 ga. wire.
All the other wires should be at least sized equal to those coming out of your actuator. Probably 12 ga. This setup is much better than having all your current carrying power and ground wires run all the way to the dash and back, which drastically lowers the current available at the actuator. Good Luck!
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Yes, you can use a double-pole switch. Common (guage) goes in the center- the tank sending units go on the other poles. That way, whichever tank you flip the switch to, the gauge will read it.
The other set of terminals can be used to trip the solenoid for the tank changeover valve.
You would only need the 6 terminal switch if you were using an electric tank switch. If you are changing the tank manually, and just want to select which sender the gauge is reading, all you need is a normal double throw switch with 3 terminals. The center term. goes to the gauge, right term to the left sender and left term. to the right sender.