-
title says it all!
what im sayin is, i need to remove my u-joints for replacement. i cant get the damn coupler with the joints out of the boat. i unbolted the coupler from the engine, but there is not enuff play in the slider in the spline shaft for me to take it out. i cant swivel the end on the coupler to clear the flex plate. i would say there is only @1/4 inch that i can slide it back & any pryin i try to do flexes the whole engine on the stringers. i hopin i dont have to unbolt the pump. i will cry & the rest of my boating season is over!
do i punch out the u-joint caps with the coupler still on the engine to avoid pre-mature pump bearing failer? should i get a big c-clamp and slowly push them out. oh, by the way its a 80 sanger s-j with a bbc, and a JG pump. do yall know what part # on those u-joints. they are internally cliped type. this will help me before i got to the parts house for research. its my first time around the block on these parts. thanks. i played hookie today to fix this thing .
-
I have in the past rented a "ball joint" press form the auto parts store for stuck unjoints. Its bascily a c clamp on roids. Even "heavy duty" c-clamps won't work if the unjoints are in there good.
-
If it's the kind of coupler that unbolts in the middle, take those bolts out as well, it should come out. That's what kind mine is & it is still kind of a pain to get it out of there. Other way I've heard is pull your motor loose & slide it forward. It would have to be on a hoist or something to that though....
-
so, i take it the coupler stays in the boat during the u joint relacement?do one @ a time? i was under the impression i would pull the whole coupler with the double jounts all the way out the boat then relace joints then install. the way its set up is the spline shaft coupler to a set of u-joints then to H shaped part of the joint then another u-joint to the coupler that bolts to the motor. did you get that, i had to read it agin to :messedup:
-
Loosen the engine mount bolts and pry the engine forward. No big deal!!!!!!!!!!
Take the entire coupler out!!!!!!!
-
Loosen the engine mount bolts and pry the engine forward. No big deal!!!!!!!!!!
Take the entire coupler out!!!!!!!
thats what i just relized, had a beer thought about it & unbolt the motor from the aluminum stringer brackets & slide forward. thats why there is all that slack in the hoses and wires. i had a feelin it would be that way but didnt seem that practical. how ofen am i goin to have to change these & any part #s. thanks a million all!
-
thats what i just relized, had a beer thought about it & unbolt the motor from the aluminum stringer brackets & slide forward. thats why there is all that slack in the hoses and wires. i had a feelin it would be that way but didnt seem that practical. how ofen am i goin to have to change these & any part #s. thanks a million all!
For the kind of coupler you have, thats the way to do it. :rollside: As long as you keep them greased, shouldn't have to replace them often at all. Make sure & put the joints in so the grease fittings are easily accessible..... Don't know any part numbers though, sorry.....
-
For the kind of coupler you have, thats the way to do it. :rollside: As long as you keep them greased, shouldn't have to replace them often at all. Make sure & put the joints in so the grease fittings are easily accessible..... Don't know any part numbers though, sorry.....
i apreciate the helps. anybody else have this type of set up? what part # are your joints man. no stoner icon? :jawdrop:
-
These are the Spicer PN's. Auto Parts should be able to cross reference the numbers to something they have in stock.
Spicer series 1310, outside snap ring: Spicer PN 5-153X, cap to cap= 3.219", cap dia= 1.063"
Spicer series 1350, inside snap ring: Spicer PN 5-178X, cap to cap= 3.622", cap dia= 1.188"
-
Slide your motor forward about 2". Then slide the entire drive line forward and it will fall off of the splined pump shaft. Walla! You have the complete coupler out, and can replace the U-Joints and reinstall.
