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I just got the H2O-Craft transom lettered and now can install the hardware, but! After reinforcing the whole thing, (it was only 1/4 in thick, glass only so I installed some strong alum angle) now the bar wont slide through since it has sucked the glass flat! Do I just grind and shim the mounts one at a time? I'm doomed to make the first race! What a can of worms I opened... :cry: I'd dont know why I shared this....... I think I know the answer..............................and the ridicule coming!
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Jerk you will now have to shim or sand as necessary the transom bearings to once again create a straight hole for the shaft to slide in. They were likely custom fitted the first time to fit the non-straight transom I'm guessing.
Or just buy a new set that are all the same right outta the box. Of course doing that may be hard to match your old hole pattern or hardware design.
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Are you saying now that the transom is somewhat straight, the cav bar won't go through the bearings?
Just something to check....
I would check the transom bearing center to mounting flange dimension. If they are different, you just need to make them all the same dimension.
But if they are all the same now, you have other issues.
Are you sure the transom is straight?
Brian
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Jerk you will now have to shim or sand as necessary the transom bearings to once again create a straight hole for the shaft to slide in. They were likely custom fitted the first time to fit the non-straight transom I'm guessing.
Or just buy a new set that are all the same right outta the box. Of course doing that may be hard to match your old hole pattern or hardware design.
Yea what he said.
It would be easy to trim off a little to make them all line up, shouldn't have to take off THAT much, IMHO
Brian
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Sorry superlite, it is something new to me also. This boat is weird! inside the transom is not flat. It's hull was constructed from three molds. One side of the boat is one mold, the left side is two, and the deck is the third mold. In other words, the boat is split right down the middle, from transom to bow. There is a visible vertical seam in the center of the transom where the cav plate pillow blocks bolt! Harlan Orrin once told me the reason, but it went way over my bald head! Now the problem is inside where I have installed the alum 2" angle for reinforcement since it never had any. It must mount over the irregular shape which is thicker at the center bonding seam. When you torque down the blocks, the fiberglass pulls into the stiff aluminum and flattens out the back of the boat. If you put a straight edge accross the back, it varies up to 1/4 inch, the thickness of the glass! This raises heck with the bar alignment. So, yesterday, I got the nerve to file and shim after installing the tow outer blocks (those affected the least) three inner blocks and the bar turns freely. Now I need to install the last one but its bad! I have two extra blocks to mess up before I give up! I am cutting the length of the blocks and only after bolting them up can I find the bind caused by the blocks being out of alignment. I am close. The shaft is straight so that's not the problem. Ahhh v-drives, is there anything else? :D
Brian, you seem to understand very well, no wonder these boats took so much time and money to install all the hardware!
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Your jerkness, Is this a 17' or 18' Aqua Craft???
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Measures 17'10", I am told it is a 'Shark', whatever that means....I'll get some pictures if anyone is interested....
It has four lapstrakes in front and a gull style dropped chine that dissappears at the strut. 62 inches wide at the rear plate and almost perfectly flat! Another weird hull detail is the corrigated looking keel like someone ground on it to flatten it or make it wavey? possibly. Grich says to run it in circles.....so I will! ;)
